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[Z06] Valve Springs

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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by NatB
I also own a 2002 Z06- with 33K miles on the clock.

Wanted to replace valve springs and spoke to a very reputable Houston corvette shop (EG in Houston) who told me it would be money down the drain as he has never seen the stock springs fail under normal use.

He also said once you go with aftermarket - you must replace the springs every 25K miles.

Makes me wonder how much the valve spring issue is internet forum chat??
With all the reported OEM valve spring failures on this chat board alone (which there are MANY), I can't see how it's not a real issue.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 07:45 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Sinister-Z
I plan on swapping out all the stock springs with a better aftermarket version and from what I have read, best springs to use are:

-Comp 918's
-PAC 218's
-PSI 1511's
So which one of these springs have the closest spring rate to the OEM LS6 valve springs? I'm getting close to rounding up parts for a valve spring swap also, and want a more reliable aftermarket spring that is as close to the stock spring rate as possible.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
So which one of these springs have the closest spring rate to the OEM LS6 valve springs? I'm getting close to rounding up parts for a valve spring swap also, and want a more reliable aftermarket spring that is as close to the stock spring rate as possible.
GMPP LS6 Springs:

Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.290 in.
Coil Bind Height (in) 1.085 in.
Damper Spring Included No
Spring Rate (lbs/in) 375 lbs./in.
Inside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 0.885 in.
Valve Spring Style Beehive

Comp 918's:

Installed Load: 125 lbs @ 1.800"
Open Load: 348 lbs @ 1.200"
Spring Rate: 372 lbs/in
Coil Bind Height: 1.110"
Outside Diameter: 1.290"/1.060”
Inside Diameter: .885"/.656”
Retainer: TI 772/Steel 774
Part # 26918-16
Description GM LS1 Spring High Load Spring

PAC 1218's:

OD: 1.290
ID: .885
Max coil bind: 1.140
Installed Height: 1.800
Max Lift .600
Load @ 1.800 130lbs
Load @ 1.200 318lbs
Spring rate: 313.3 lb/in
Weight: 62 grams
Frequency: 29277 CPM

PSI LS1511:

Weight: 65g
OD: 1.290
ID: .630
Install height LS6: 1.800
Install height LS7: 1.850
Seat Pressure LS6: 120lbs.
Seat Pressure LS7: 113lbs
Open Pressure: 360lbs @ 1.175
Rate: 384 lb/in
Max lift LS6: .625
Max lift LS7: .700
Coil Bind: 1.100


I personally am going with the PAC springs myself.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #44  
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What size air fitting does the LS6 spark plug hole take?
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by rbartick
What size air fitting does the LS6 spark plug hole take?
14mm.

You can get a LSX spring tool (Tim's Tool) and air tool for $60 from a guy who sells them on LS1 Tech. I got just the spring tool since I already have an air tool. PM me for his contact info.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 12:05 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by budnate
that's weird, the word was they were made in Germany...bet there being shipped in through Mexico in bulk and boxed there....I am going to just stick stockers back in and call it good...what was your summit part number showing on this batch???
the summit part # is (NAL-12499224)

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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 08:54 AM
  #47  
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I ordered a set from Summit,
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Sinister-Z
14mm.

You can get a LSX spring tool (Tim's Tool) and air tool for $60 from a guy who sells them on LS1 Tech. I got just the spring tool since I already have an air tool. PM me for his contact info.
I don't use air, just rotate the engine in the firing order and with the piston at top dead center the valves wont fall more than 3/16th inch. Some people snake a piece of rope in the spark plug hole (with the end sticking out like a tampon string) so as the piston tops out it's got the rope sandwiched between the valves which wont let them budge.

Also, before you compress the spring, sometimes you have to tap the edge of the retainer (not the valve stem tip!) with a rubber hammer or some wood. Otherwise the spring assembly and valve stem are kinda "fused" together, the locks wont come loose with the spring compressed. One or two good whacks from the hammer will give you a change of tone when you hear it pop loose, then compress the spring.

Hope this helps.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 01:23 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
but do they give up HP ? I bet they do.
Negligable, if any.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #50  
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Sinister-Z ... thanks for the spring spec comparison info in post #43.

Originally Posted by Sinister-Z
I personally am going with the PAC springs myself.
Why did you choose the PAC 1218s over the others? Seems the Open Load and Spring Rate of the 1218s is less then the Comp 918s and OEM LS6 springs.

Comp 918's:
Installed Load: 125 lbs @ 1.800"
Open Load: 348 lbs @ 1.200"
Spring Rate: 372 lbs/in
Coil Bind Height: 1.110"
Outside Diameter: 1.290"/1.060”
Inside Diameter: .885"/.656”
Retainer: TI 772/Steel 774
Part # 26918-16
Description GM LS1 Spring High Load Spring

PAC 1218's:
OD: 1.290
ID: .885
Max coil bind: 1.140
Installed Height: 1.800
Max Lift .600
Load @ 1.800 130lbs
Load @ 1.200 318lbs
Spring rate: 313.3 lb/in
Weight: 62 grams
Frequency: 29277 CPM

Last edited by ZeeOSix; Feb 9, 2011 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Sinister-Z ... thanks for the spring spec comparison info in post #43.



Why did you choose the PAC 1218s over the others? Seems the Open Load and Spring Rate of the 1218s is less then the Comp 918s and OEM LS6 springs.

Comp 918's:
Installed Load: 125 lbs @ 1.800"
Open Load: 348 lbs @ 1.200"
Spring Rate: 372 lbs/in
Coil Bind Height: 1.110"
Outside Diameter: 1.290"/1.060”
Inside Diameter: .885"/.656”
Retainer: TI 772/Steel 774
Part # 26918-16
Description GM LS1 Spring High Load Spring

PAC 1218's:
OD: 1.290
ID: .885
Max coil bind: 1.140
Installed Height: 1.800
Max Lift .600
Load @ 1.800 130lbs
Load @ 1.200 318lbs
Spring rate: 313.3 lb/in
Weight: 62 grams
Frequency: 29277 CPM
I noticed the difference also when looking at the technical data between them.

Honestly... I'm making my decision based on information I have received from others who have used the PAC Springs before. I have also read in my research that the 1218's are a really good replacement option for the LS6 Springs.

As far as the Comp springs go, I personally know several guy's who had issues with Comp springs breaking (not just 918's). This was more so a few years back when Comp was putting out a bad batch of springs which I'm sure has long been rectified by now. I guess that just sticks in my mind for some reason.

The people that I have spoke with that have actually used PAC springs have never had an issue with them and spoke very highly about them. I wish I had more knowledge with the technical aspects between the PAC and Comp springs.

Maybe someone who does will chime in and explain why the three of them have different spring rates yet the PAC and Comp springs are still rated at a .600 maximum lift? This kind of boggled my mind and the only thing I could come up with is that one does better than the other at higher RPM. I could be completly wrong but... your guess would be as good as mine?
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Sinister-Z
Maybe someone who does will chime in and explain why the three of them have different spring rates yet the PAC and Comp springs are still rated at a .600 maximum lift? This kind of boggled my mind and the only thing I could come up with is that one does better than the other at higher RPM. I could be completly wrong but... your guess would be as good as mine?
consistent high rpms engines, should keep valve lift less then .570 for valve train reliability.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #53  
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Patriot Daul Gold Extreme and Comp Cams High Tech Push Rods , Run Royal Purple and the Cam will not wear one bit !!http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 07:15 PM
  #54  
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Where can I get that tool?
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 12:44 PM
  #55  
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How the heck does anyone easily rotate the motor in a single person operation? I bought a 24 mm socket for the crankshaft but can't get a ratchet or any other wrench on it for that matter. The steering rack is in the way.

I can't find a shallow 24 mm socket, or offset 24 mm wrench to reach in there. Other than bumping the starter, which I'd prefer not to do, what tool or trick is there to help me? I've tried a strap wrench but that didn't work either.

This has been rather frustrating as all the presumed difficult stuff of removing/reaching plugs and removing plug wires went fairly smoothly.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 01:05 PM
  #56  
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 02:14 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by ~Joshua
I don't use air, just rotate the engine in the firing order and with the piston at top dead center the valves wont fall more than 3/16th inch. Some people snake a piece of rope in the spark plug hole (with the end sticking out like a tampon string) so as the piston tops out it's got the rope sandwiched between the valves which wont let them budge.
Originally Posted by Trash
How the heck does anyone easily rotate the motor in a single person operation? I bought a 24 mm socket for the crankshaft but can't get a ratchet or any other wrench on it for that matter. The steering rack is in the way.

I can't find a shallow 24 mm socket, or offset 24 mm wrench to reach in there. Other than bumping the starter, which I'd prefer not to do, what tool or trick is there to help me? I've tried a strap wrench but that didn't work either.

This has been rather frustrating as all the presumed difficult stuff of removing/reaching plugs and removing plug wires went fairly smoothly.
Good question ... what's the easiest way to turn over the engine if using the TDC/rope method to hold the valves up?
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 03:13 PM
  #58  
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If you put the car in 6th you can push the car a bit to turn the engine over ever so slightly at a time.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 03:28 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Good question ... what's the easiest way to turn over the engine if using the TDC/rope method to hold the valves up?
Forget using the rope. Or for that matter any other object into the plug hole.
Standing on the passenger side. Use a 15/16" box end wrench,
mine's 14" long. You use a box end that has a "kick" or angled at the end. Another words, not a straight wrench.

With the plugs out, you will be able to turn the engine quite esily. Use a good/strong flashlight & look into #1 hole to see when the piston is at the very top. Oh, it's going to have black carbon on the top of the piston, it won't look all shiney & new. You will still be able to see it, when it's at the very top.

This way your guarenteed not to drop a valve while changing out the spring/springs.


Good luck.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 04:18 PM
  #60  
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I got a hold of a 15/16" offset box end wrench. 15/16 is 23.8 mm which is close enough since I've been unable to find a 24 mm box wrench.

This does work so thanks for the help. I may try jacking the back and turning the rear tires method too.
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