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65 ya your response did come across a little testy. but thank you for the link (now I have to get a small soldering iron ) I got this thread from Google and since it was talking about the exact same issue that's why I did not start a new thread. not to mention if you start a new thread that is usually when you get the response of next time search the forums before starting a new thread. (damned if you do Damned if you don't I guess) but bottom line thank you for the link it looks like there is my solution
That's another place we disagree. One of the worst choices you can make is to take it to a dealer and ask for a diagnosis and repair. Not only will it cost you a lot more than necessary, but the mechanics have usually not been there long enough to have personal knowledge and try looking up repairs in a book, or even this forum. If you follow the advice offered by long time owners who have devoted a lot of time to sharing their knowledge and experience, you can fix it yourself or at least know enough not to get taken.
As far as the remotes for the older cars, they are available from gmpartshouse.com for around $80 if the solder link provided doesn't work. The dealer will charge that much for "diagnosis" and a lot more for the part. Your car, your choice.
I agree with you completely on this point I would much rather find out information on my car here than at the dealership (for $110 an hour) and like you said a lot of them really don't have the knowledge of the small issues that are common to our cars whereas our members here have seen plenty of issues and found the resolution and are willing to share that information with the rest of us!
This key fob issue is a perfect example I guarantee the dealership would just say get a new fob or they might instead start with the module instead of telling me to open up the fob and try soldering 6 points on the fob (reletively free fix vs 110 diag fee plus new fob at 125 so a total of 235 out the door) Again thx for the link
Neither of my fobs are disconnected at any point internally that I can see. I just went outside and resynched AND relearned one fob. Seems as if I tried these tricks a year ago when I bought the car, and they would work at first, then after a cycle or two, cease to function again. Figured it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, I'll have to go back to using the actual key again, God forbid.
Neither of my fobs are disconnected at any point internally that I can see. I just went outside and resynched AND relearned one fob. Seems as if I tried these tricks a year ago when I bought the car, and they would work at first, then after a cycle or two, cease to function again. Figured it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, I'll have to go back to using the actual key again, God forbid.
That's the exact symptom of bad connections in the fob. You can't see the bad connections, but you can solder them and fix it.
That's the exact symptom of bad connections in the fob. You can't see the bad connections, but you can solder them and fix it.
Just walked back outside, and the remote that I resynched and relearned refused to work. Guess it's either try the resolder trick or a new remote; anything else is beyond my diag ability.
65 ya your response did come across a little testy. but thank you for the link (now I have to get a small soldering iron ) I got this thread from Google and since it was talking about the exact same issue that's why I did not start a new thread. not to mention if you start a new thread that is usually when you get the response of next time search the forums before starting a new thread. (damned if you do Damned if you don't I guess) but bottom line thank you for the link it looks like there is my solution
The reason I started the way I did was because of the way you started yours. "I hate to bring up an old thread", the point I was making was that if you really hated it, why do it. A new thread will get more lookers and more pertinent answers than one several years old. People will start responding to the OP when he is long gone because they don't notice that it's an old thread. It strikes me the wrong way to say "I hate to do something" and then doing it anyway. Like "I hate to tell you this, but you're ugly" If you really hated it, you wouldn't.
Just walked back outside, and the remote that I resynched and relearned refused to work. Guess it's either try the resolder trick or a new remote; anything else is beyond my diag ability.
This is another good example of tacking onto someone else's thread (called hijacking). Now wolf10851 and jframe are both posting about what they are doing in response to the suggestions in the thread, confusing the status of each. And both of these are still on a four year old thread. I'm just demonstrating why it's a good idea to start your own thread with a problem even if its similar to one you're reading. You get your own answers, and it can be searched for that particular problem, not a combination of all the problems in the whole thread.
Having said all that: jframe, if you'll solder the points shown at the red dots in the link I posted, it may fix your problem. If not, you're no worse off than you are now. Your fob doesn't work now, what harm can you do. If your uncomfortable with soldering, find someone to help. Holding the soldering iron on a connection with a solid state device can destroy the device by overheating. Maybe you know a friend who does electronic repair work?
Last edited by 65GGvert; Aug 17, 2014 at 02:34 PM.
But the '97 to '00 fobs and tpms do not interchange with the ones from '01 to '04. You need to get the early fobs for the early cars unless you upgrade the whole system (receiver, tpms and fobs) to the later versions.
Resynchronizing Your Transmitter
Your RKE system uses a continually changing code for
increased security. Normally, the receiver in your
vehicle will keep track of this changing code. If your
vehicle does not respond to your transmitter, do the
following to determine what’s wrong:
1. Get closer to the vehicle and try pressing a button
again. Your battery may be low. If so, see “Battery
Replacement” in the Index.
2. While standing close to your vehicle, press the
lock and unlock buttons on your transmitter at the
same time and hold for seven seconds. This will
attempt to resynchronize the security code in your
RKE transmitter.
3. When resynchronization is achieved, the horn
will chirp.
If attempts to resynchronize your transmitter to the
vehicle are not successful, you may need to match the
transmitter to the vehicle. See “Matching Transmitter(s)
to Your Vehicle” in the Index.
To match transmitters to your vehicle:
1. Turn the ignition key to ON.
2. Clear any warning messages on the Driver Information
Center (DIC) by pressing the RESET button.
3. Press the OPTIONS button on the DIC several times
until the blank page is displayed, then press and hold
the RESET button for two seconds.
4. When the message FOB TRAINING is displayed,
push the RESET button once. The message HOLD
LK + UNLK 1ST FOB in the DIC will be displayed.
5. Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the
first transmitter simultaneously for five seconds.
6. When a transmitter is learned (matched), the DIC
will display FOB LEARNED and then prompt you
to learn the second transmitter.
7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the third transmitter.
8. Remove the key from the ignition.
The programming mode will shut off if any of following
has occurred:
You don’t program any transmitters for two minutes.
You take the key out of the ignition.
You have programmed three transmitters.
I follow the directions to the using a new, just purchased from the dealer, fob and the option of FOB TRAINING does not com up. I must be missing something but I do not know what it could be. Any ideas?
Thanks!