I was blowing out some carbon and did a little burnout and the service engine soon light now comes on and goes off but when I cut off the car it appears again. thanks in advance for your help.

 

Try this to see if you can pull some error codes:

Do-It-Yourself owners will be most interested in the display of diagnostic trouble codes for all modules that transmit them. The "Diagnostic Display Mode" is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.

2) Press the "RESET" button to turn off any warning messages

3) Press and hold "OPTIONS"

4) While holding "OPTIONS", press "FUEL" four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an "Automatic Mode" which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. If none are present in a given module, you will see "No More Codes" on the display.

There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, "Current" and "History", designated with a letter suffix, "C" or "H". A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a "Scan Tester" is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except "E/M". Once the display shows "Manual Diagnostics", select a module by pressing the "OPTIONS" button to go forward or the "TRIP" button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press "GAGES" to go forward or "FUEL" to go back.

To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press "E/M". If you want to erase codes in a given module, press "RESET".

 

awesome thanks, I got hurt in Iraq and I bought this car while I was in Walter Reed. I love it and I want to keep it but I am afraid of the huge mechanical expenses if it is broken. I diligently have all services performed and I do not cut corners on parts or service. Thanks any idea why the fule guage reads 3/4 full when I fill it up and then after 40 miles or so it drops to empty and the low fuel light comes on.

 

sgtrock63, First let me say thank you for your service, and I hope you recover fully from you injury.


I have the same problem you are experiencing with your fuel gauge. I believe it is a buildup on the sending unit. I have been using Techron in every tank of gas for the last five or six fillups. I let the tank go to around 1/4 or maybe a little less and add the techron. I wait a few days and then fill up with a top tier gasoline (always 93 octane). After following this procedure , my last fillup cause the gauge to finally read full. Hopefully this will help both our cars to be a little more accurate on fuel levels.
Hope this helps

 

This is very good advice. You will also get Techron in your fuel if you have a Chevron or Texaco station to buy from.

To the OP. I had the service engine soon DIC message and just tightened my fuel cap and it went away the next time I cranked my engine.

I also appreciate your service to our country and wish you a speedy and complete recovery.

 

sounds like a plan thank you. I put some stuff called BG-44 in it for the last 8 times but I didn't put it in and let it run or set I put it in and filled it up. It makes sense to try it this way .. thank you.

 

Thank you both for the kind words. It sucks, but I now know what Nathan Hale meant when he said " I regret that I have but one life to give to my country" I broke my neck in a rollover and now the Army is retiring me but, I want to be in theatre with my brothers and sisters. I would give anything to be back in the desert doing what I was trained to do. Thanks and I really appreciate the help.

 

somebody buy this man a beer

 

awesome thanks. I have read of seafoam but have never seen it.

 

Thank you for your service.



The techron will work for the fuel guage problem. Thaht is a known problem with C-5's. I suggest that you reset your trip odometer every time you fill the tank and that will give you some indication of haw full the tank is. As for the 'check engine light' there is a thread here on how to read the codes and interpret them. Taht will give you an idea if you have a 'real' problem or just a event...

 

Have you accessed the DTCs (codes) yet?

If not be prepared write them down on paper.

List the modules on your paper so when the DTC is displayed you just mark the number next to the appropriate module: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA.

If you can try to use gas with Techron in it. Chevron or Texaco Supreme.

 

Sorry to hear you got hurt in Iraq. Thank you for your service.
Now quit beating on the car, and you won't have to worry about the large repair bills.