When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What's a good Jack to use when trying to change the oil on my car? I normally take it to get the oil change done. However I think i'd rather do it myself from now on.
I don't think there's a jack that goes low enough.. I made some ramps out of 2X10s(or 2X12s). When I get it up on the ramps then most floor jacks will go under the car. I also have a block of wood on top of the jack to protect the under carriage.
The aluminum jack from H-----r F----t will git it. Now on sale for $79, saw that the had a 3 ton one on sale for a little over $100. But just a jack is dangerous. Get a good set of Rhino Ramps.......Also try a search as there are lots of posts on this. I see you are not new to the forum, search should have been your first check..........
I don't think there's a jack that goes low enough.. I made some ramps out of 2X10s(or 2X12s). When I get it up on the ramps then most floor jacks will go under the car. I also have a block of wood on top of the jack to protect the under carriage.
I do the same but then throw a pair of Rhino ramps under the wheels and then jack up the back/place jack stands with wood blocks to support the back end.
If you buy a low-profile hydraulic floor jack, mack sure it has a maximum height that is high enough so that the ramps or jack stands allow room for you to crawl underneath. My floor jack max height is about 19 inches - plenty high.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
I HAVE A LOW PROFILE 4 TON JACK FORM HARBOR FREIGHT THAT WORKS WELL TO LIFT MY LOWERED Z, BUT I BUILT THESE RAMPS TO GET THE FRONT END UP THAT WORK GREAT AND ARE EASY TO BUILD. http://www.tim-yvonne.com/mikemercury/ramp.htm . MIKE MERCURY DID A GREAT JOB ON THE DESIGN FOR LOW CARS.. THEY COST ~ $40 TO BUILD
Screw messing around with jacks...but a 4 post lift and just walk under the car... its only money and in 50 years you will have saved enough money to pay for the lift...!!!
You are going to need ramps or blocks of wood to get the car up high enough to even get a jack and plywood under it. I use Rhino Ramps - the wide ones so the tires fit. Even so, I have to drive up on 2 X 10s to get up the Rhino Ramps without dragging. This is part of the reason why it takes longer to get the car up in the air than to do the actual oil change.
I use a 2 ton Craftsman floor jack and a 3/4" piece of plywood to pick up the rear. This gets that last 1/2 quart out of the oil pan. The drain plug is in the front of the oil pan on these cars so if you just pick it up from the front you miss some old oil. Depends on how OCD you are if you want to go chasing it.
The Craftsman jack is a fine piece of equipment but it doesn't fit under the rear frame so I have a PT Cruiser jack to raise the car up so I can slip it and a piece of plywood under the rear frame.
Now that I read this the 4 post lift is beginning to look good.
I use the Aluminum jack from HF but only to get it up on one end then the other (using a 2X12 board w/ the jack). When going under the car Jackstands are the only way to go for safety sake. $.02
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Originally Posted by johnson-rod
You are going to need ramps or blocks of wood to get the car up high enough to even get a jack and plywood under it. I use Rhino Ramps - the wide ones so the tires fit. Even so, I have to drive up on 2 X 10s to get up the Rhino Ramps without dragging. This is part of the reason why it takes longer to get the car up in the air than to do the actual oil change.
I use a 2 ton Craftsman floor jack and a 3/4" piece of plywood to pick up the rear. This gets that last 1/2 quart out of the oil pan. The drain plug is in the front of the oil pan on these cars so if you just pick it up from the front you miss some old oil. Depends on how OCD you are if you want to go chasing it.
The Craftsman jack is a fine piece of equipment but it doesn't fit under the rear frame so I have a PT Cruiser jack to raise the car up so I can slip it and a piece of plywood under the rear frame.
Now that I read this the 4 post lift is beginning to look good.
the ramps i described above do not need a 2x10 in front of them. the side air dam barely rubs, check out the design. other that being a little heavy they work great and you are working under something that is on wood not plastic. http://www.tim-yvonne.com/mikemercury/ramp.htm i do not know tim but he put some thought into the design of his ramps. check out his other thoughts.......
When changing the oil, you do need to jack it up to get the plug out; BUT, After the oil start draining, you need to put the car back down. This is becasue the drain plug is in FRONT of the oil pan. With the front end up high, all the old oil will not drian out. I use a HF low-profile jack, and it works file with my lowered vette. I know, its a lot to raise it up, take out the plug, then lower it on the catch pan; then raise it back up to put the plug back in and change the filter. Good luck!
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
I use a Craftsman aluminum racing style jack on mine - it works fine under the rocker panels and the rear crossmember. Won't go under the front crossmember from the front though - I use a sissors jack and lift the car a bit then use the Craftsman jack along with some Rhino Ramps when I change my oil.