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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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Default traction control system

Does anyone know where the relay, (code c1214) is located at on a 2001 for the traction control system? thanks
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:28 PM
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It is in the front part of the ebcm in front of the water pump. Right under the top radiator hose. It is mounted with 6 7mm I think bolts to the main unit, It has 2 wire harnesses going to it, A large one and a small one.
Mr.Bill



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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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Depending on the year of your car the unit varies in location. Early C-5 were mounted in the rear. It isn't a 'relay' but a Electronic Brake Control Unit (small computer). The code you're describing says one wheel is turning faster than the other, a common failure shown when EBCM fails. Some Are repairable, some are no longer Manufactured (so I'vde been told)
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:46 PM
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I have an '01 it's where mr bill pointed it out.

And a royal pain to service. I let Chevy replace mine under warranty!
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
I have an '01 it's where mr bill pointed it out.

And a royal pain to service. I let Chevy replace mine under warranty!
If you have a factory warranty, I have an aftermarket warranty and they refused to repair mine... Tookme about 30 mins to remove it and you can still drive the car, Just make sure the wires are out of the way of the belts, Installing it was a bit tuffer, Hard to get the 6 bolts started. And yes there is a relay in it that goes bad so I have read. I sent mine to ABSFIXER.

Last edited by Mr.Bill; Mar 11, 2011 at 05:53 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:55 PM
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Mine was GMPP. And it showed its ugly head not days too soon, because I had like two weeks still left on it. It was too old to renew they said.

I kept getting the Service ABS/Service Traction Control message and it wouldn't clear out. So I just said heck with it, pay Chevy the 100 deduct let them deal with it.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Bill
If you have a factory warranty, I have an aftermarket warranty and they refused to repair mine... Tookme about 30 mins to remove it and you can still drive the car, Just make sure the wires are out of the way of the belts, Installing it was a bit tuffer, Hard to get the 6 bolts started. And yes there is a relay in it that goes bad so I have read. I sent mine to ABSFIXER.
Mine hasn't screwed up yet but I wish the car didn't even have the traction control-active handleing! Is there any way to just do away with it? As far as I am concerned its just something else to go wrong.
I would take mine off If I could with out messing up the computers or something. I have drove some really fast street rods over the last 48 years of driving, [much faster than 90% of the corvettes out there] and got along just fine with common sense.
Dave
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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It's easy enough to do. It was 6 #15 torx screws holding the EBCM on. Take air bridge off, you can get to the EBCM screws from passenger side. Pull the connector keepers out of connectors, then remove connectors. The large connector has a handle that helps slide and disengage the connector. Pull that to 90* downward. Take out screws after disconnecting. Pull away towards passenger side, it's off.

Bag and twisty tie over the connectors and move away from belts/harm. Get back in and drive to send off your EBCM.

Putting back, the only real issue is get 2 middle of the 6 screws back started, but easy enough. It's easier than an OPS.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.Bill
If you have a factory warranty, I have an aftermarket warranty and they refused to repair mine... Tookme about 30 mins to remove it and you can still drive the car, Just make sure the wires are out of the way of the belts, Installing it was a bit tuffer, Hard to get the 6 bolts started. And yes there is a relay in it that goes bad so I have read. I sent mine to ABSFIXER.
Not to thread jack but is it better to buy the remanufactured ones from them for $300 or send yours in and wait for $150? Is there any difference in the unit of theirs vs. the one already in the car?
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Qwik01
Not to thread jack but is it better to buy the remanufactured ones from them for $300 or send yours in and wait for $150? Is there any difference in the unit of theirs vs. the one already in the car?
I looked on the web a lot. I didn't see any rebuilt for $300, or I would have purchased one and save my original. I think you just need to check serial number range to be sure is later version.
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by KenShores
I looked on the web a lot. I didn't see any rebuilt for $300, or I would have purchased one and save my original. I think you just need to check serial number range to be sure is later version.
I was going to order this. The car is my daily driver so I cant have any down time in it. Though I have heard you can drive the car without it in?

http://www.absfixer.com/catalog/prod...rb8mkab3rmrsm2
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:48 AM
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I want to thank you guys for responding so fast on this. it was a big help. I am going to take it off today after it warms up some. a little cool this morning. but going to get in the 70s today. thanks again
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Qwik01
I was going to order this. The car is my daily driver so I cant have any down time in it. Though I have heard you can drive the car without it in?

http://www.absfixer.com/catalog/prod...rb8mkab3rmrsm2
Yup, without the EBCM the car drives just like any other car with a conventional (not Active Handling, not differential braking) system. One thing you do loose is the anti-lock brake feature (you can lock the wheels with it out) so keep that in mind. Cover up the exposed end that the EBCM mated to (I just duct taped mine) and wire tie the electrical plug so it stays out of the fan and you're good to go. Wont hurt anything.

And yes, the link you posted is the (newer) EBCM for the C5.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jistari
Yup, without the EBCM the car drives just like any other car with a conventional (not Active Handling, not differential braking) system. One thing you do loose is the anti-lock brake feature (you can lock the wheels with it out) so keep that in mind. Cover up the exposed end that the EBCM mated to (I just duct taped mine) and wire tie the electrical plug so it stays out of the fan and you're good to go. Wont hurt anything.

And yes, the link you posted is the (newer) EBCM for the C5.
Thanks for the info!
Dave
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 09:42 AM
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I ran my DD for a week before I got the rebuilt installed. I even went on a trip in the moutains. No ABS, but the trip was just as fun driving as driving with the unit on. No problems at all.

When you go to install the EBCM, the two middle screws are a bit of a pain. I used tape, to hold the screws in place. I inserted the two screws just to the point that they stick out through the housing. Then used tape to hold them in place. They sit in the channel pretty well, and I just made sure that the tape held them in place. Do both before putting back on the manafold. This may save you from chasing screws under the car.

Slide it striaght on. Then feel around to make sure you got the torx driver on the screwhead, push in a little and you can feel as the screw is threaded up well and go to town. The bottom screws where easy for me to feel out and get them started with the fingers. You can see were they go from the bottom of the car, and do the job from down there, but you gotta be real skinny to get under without jacking up the car.

The top ones you can see, they are easy, and I did these last. Then install connectors and don't forget the connector keepers. Reinstall air briodge, start the car, no more ABS and traction control lights, whoo hoo!

I had more trouble putting the air bridge back on than the EBCM. I kept dropping those little plastic keepers and had to chase them more than once. Good luck
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