When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I posted a few months ago about 2 nearly identical phillips head screws that fell out of the back of my C5 one day in the garage. no one could identify them, neither could I.
Today I was trying out a new wax I picked up and heard a rattle coming from the bumper while cleaning it. the rattle was definitely coming from one of the halos. It didn't take much to put 2 and 2 together here. I pulled the light off and found one of the screws on the back of the assembly missing and 2 loose, so much so that they were making a racket with the slightest tap.
those screws aren't long enough it seems! they just barely thread into the assembly, I had to apply pressure to them to get them to thread in.
since I had 2 screws and only one empty screw hole I took the adjacent light out and it too was missing a screw, some of its screws were loose also.
one of them I couldn't get to screw in at all. if felt like just barely one thread had anything to bite into and it was stripped. had to use some black silicone to provide the waterseal and keep the screw in, that back panel is glued on anyway it looks like. screws used at the factory to hold the parts together while the glue sets maybe? either way they are needed now to keep water out of the light assembly.
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Glad you found the source of the rattle and the missing screws. Haven't noticed anything like that on mine, but now you have my curiosity up. May pull out my lights and just double check that they are nice and secure.
This problem plagues all 5 generations of halo tail lights. Especially those that have been modified. The plastic "nut" on the inside is made of a relatively weak plastic that tends to self-destruct when the screws are removed.
The solution is as simple as getting a slightly longer screw from your local hardware store. If i remember correctly, a 3/4" #8 screw will be long enough to catch the sturdy part of the plastic on the inside and won't give you any more problems.
This problem plagues all 5 generations of halo tail lights. Especially those that have been modified. The plastic "nut" on the inside is made of a relatively weak plastic that tends to self-destruct when the screws are removed.
The solution is as simple as getting a slightly longer screw from your local hardware store. If i remember correctly, a 3/4" #8 screw will be long enough to catch the sturdy part of the plastic on the inside and won't give you any more problems.
Thanks George!
I'll try to remember to pick some up, hopefully stainless. I think I lost one or two of the little rubber gromets but silicone can fix that. is that a #8 machine screw that you usually have good luck with?
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by theradioflyer
This problem plagues all 5 generations of halo tail lights. Especially those that have been modified. The plastic "nut" on the inside is made of a relatively weak plastic that tends to self-destruct when the screws are removed.
The solution is as simple as getting a slightly longer screw from your local hardware store. If i remember correctly, a 3/4" #8 screw will be long enough to catch the sturdy part of the plastic on the inside and won't give you any more problems.
Good info. First I've heard of this problem.
Would you be so kind as to double-check the size and length to see if #8 x 3/4" is correct? I'm like mcgilles, I'd like to use stainless as well for no rust.
This problem plagues all 5 generations of halo tail lights. Especially those that have been modified. The plastic "nut" on the inside is made of a relatively weak plastic that tends to self-destruct when the screws are removed.
The solution is as simple as getting a slightly longer screw from your local hardware store. If i remember correctly, a 3/4" #8 screw will be long enough to catch the sturdy part of the plastic on the inside and won't give you any more problems.
george, thanks for sharing that suggestion and information.
Would you be so kind as to double-check the size and length to see if #8 x 3/4" is correct? I'm like mcgilles, I'd like to use stainless as well for no rust.
Thanks George.
Correct. If your mounting holes have snapped off really deep, a 1" course-thread wood screw will carve new grooves and hold well.
Thanks to the OP and George for the info. I should be getting my LED Halos any day now and just stumbled on this thread. Perfect timing. Hitting the hardware store tomorrow.