I have searched all over this forum about lowering. I have even searched "problems lowering". I have heard stories about people not being able to get the front bolts free.

I just begun to lower the Z. I decided to start with the hardest part, the front.

Before lowering, I removed the two lower shock absorber bolts so I could fit a socket in the area. I soaked the front driver side bolt with wd40 and placed the jack under the leaf spring. I placed the 10mm socket on the bolt and began applying pressure (counter clockwise) and I ended up twisting my 3/8"-1/4" socket drive converter. Before break the converter I tried breaking the bolt free by turning it the other way, and nothing happened.

Anyone have suggestions????

Should I apply alot more wd40 and let it soak over night???

 

You have the right idea.... Raise the spring to relieve the pressure off the bolt... soak in WD40 for as long as it takes to free it up. Try your best not to round off the head of the lowering bolt. I think the bolt is reversed threaded.... keep that in mind.

Toque

 

It isnt reverse threaded, its just upside down. Counter clockwise is lowering it, clockwise is raising it.

 

Counter clockwise is the way I was going. I will have to let her soak for awhile... wish me luck.

 

Another option is to lower the control arm to take pressure off. Plus you can get to the bottom (or top since its upside down) of the bolt easier to spray anti seize and what not. Not to thread jack but I am doing this to put lowering bolts in and cant get the lower control arm ball joint bolt free from the steering knuckle. Any advice?

 

pb blaster works better than wd40.
you can take an older socket and put it on the bolts and hit the socket with a hammer a few times.sometimes the vibration on hitting with a hammer will help free it up.last thing you can try,if you have a torch,is to heat the area a little.

 

Take a pry bar between the control arm and the spindle and 9 times out of 10 that will work. Make sure not to pinch the ball joint boot though.

 

and you think reversed threaded means what???

 

My first thought was WD40 is your problem if the bolt is partially frozen. Kroil is probably the best, but PB blaster is pretty good stuff too, from my experience.

B.

 

I guess its a matter of opinion. Like which side of the bolt you consider the head to be. Just trying to clear up any possible confusion that's all.

 

I'll second that.

 

 

"Reverse threads" implies it's a LH threaded fastener, it's not. It's a RH threaded fastener.

It depends on how one is positioned to the fastener. Above it or below it. And obviously, some people can get confused when making the adjustments as some have made adjustments in the opposite direction, raising instead of lowering.

It's the same as a drain plug in C5 crank case. People laying behind the plug sometimes tighten the plug instead of loosening it.

Try PB BLASTER instead of WD40 on the adjustment bolt. Fill up the little trough on the top side of the spring surrounding the adjustment bolt, and allow it to sit overnight. If you see the lubricant seeping beneath the spring, you'll know that the threads have been thoroughly lubricated, ready for adjustment. You should be able to make the adjustments easily with a wrench. I was able to adjust mine by hand after they were treated to PB BLASTER. Use a metal putty knife to free the rubber bushing from the control arm if needed. Apply more PB BLASTER there as well.

FYI, some owners have found that no amount of lubricant will penetrate the rusted adjustment bolt/threaded spring insert. If that's the case, don't force it or you may break the bond of the insert within the spring.

 

SUCCESS!!!!!!!!

I was able to get all four corners lowered.

FRONT:

The front was a PITA. After letting the front bolts soak with wd40 for atleast 24 hours, I was able to get the fronts to partially move. I then began working each front bolt back and forth. After that, the bolts eased up a bit and I was able to completely turn them counter clockwise. But they were still very hard to turn.

In addition, when turning the drivers side bolt, I would put pressure on the spring on the passenger side. And vice versa for turning the passenger bolt. I seemed to work easier for me this way.

REAR:

Piece of cake! Using a 18mm socket on bottom and a crescent wrench on top, the bolts turned very easily. Each side on the rear took about 5-10minutes.

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Now I am just waiting for a good rain to clear the salt off the roads, so that I can take it for a long drive and let the car settle down. Then off to install the new wheels (18/19 C6 Z06 Chrome), new tires (Veredestein Ultrac Sessantas), and alignment.



STOCK RIDE HEIGHT

 

pic of the car now?? i want to see how it looks, im in the process of dooing the samething and just using the stock bolts to lower it. i saw an eibach nut/bolt kit for like 60 bucks and not too sure if its even worth it or just use stock bolts to lower it. but yea throw some pics up id like to see how it looks and let me know how it drives. thanks..

 

I will get pics up in a few days. Im waiting for rain to wash the salt off the roads so that I can go for a long drive and let the car settle down.

 

These are some pictures of mine lowered on cut bushing but stock front bolts and the wcc rear bolts. I have since raised the rear about a quarter of an inch to give it a more level stance but here ya go.





On a side note, this is the first time I've uploaded pictures taken with my phone and I must say I was very surprised by the resolution!