Added sea foam engine will not start
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Cinnaminson NJ
Added sea foam engine will not start
Added sea foam to throttle only small amout engine went to reduced power. Engine shut down will not restart help. C5 2003 auto 44000 miles stock
Safety Car
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From: The Great Truth: "There ain't no free lunch"
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Sea Foam should be added via brake booster vacuum line or the small vacuum on the side of the throttle body......They do make a spray, however...How did you get it in? Worst scenario, hydro lock...
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From: cookeville tennessee
Banned Scam/Spammer
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
How fast did you dump in the "little bit"?
Although pulling in via the brake booster or PCV orifice is typical, it doesn't really matter where it's pulled in... in fact it doesn't matter at all anyway because it's a waste of time.
I seafoamed forever, still got pinging, pulled the heads and had tons of carbon to scrape. ALL additives are snake oil.
With that being said, pull your codes (easy to do on your dash, just search if you don't know how)... write them down, clear them all... most likely the car will start. If not, other codes will be produced. Post what they are.
If you'd rather phone support, PM your number, I'll be up till midnight and I'm in good mood, I can walk you through this. Git 'er done!
Although pulling in via the brake booster or PCV orifice is typical, it doesn't really matter where it's pulled in... in fact it doesn't matter at all anyway because it's a waste of time.
I seafoamed forever, still got pinging, pulled the heads and had tons of carbon to scrape. ALL additives are snake oil.
With that being said, pull your codes (easy to do on your dash, just search if you don't know how)... write them down, clear them all... most likely the car will start. If not, other codes will be produced. Post what they are.
If you'd rather phone support, PM your number, I'll be up till midnight and I'm in good mood, I can walk you through this. Git 'er done!
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
You can access them off the DIC - if you don't know how let us know.
Thanks,Matt
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Wish you called, have some ideas (even without codes) but typing on this iPhone sucks.
If the engine was running and you took off the airbridge to spray in the snake oil, you were taking the MAF (mass air sensor) out of the loop, hence the reduced engine message (and corresponding code stored min the computer).
Put the air bridge back on and turn the key.
Off to bed, good luck... Zzzzz
If the engine was running and you took off the airbridge to spray in the snake oil, you were taking the MAF (mass air sensor) out of the loop, hence the reduced engine message (and corresponding code stored min the computer).
Put the air bridge back on and turn the key.
Off to bed, good luck... Zzzzz
Tech Contributor
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From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
You took the MAF out of the circuit by disconnecting the air bridge to spray inside the intake manifold. Not good.
Toque
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From: SE Pennsylvania
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Oldtimer
Once the trouble has passed. . .
Team Owner
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From: cookeville tennessee
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: SE Pennsylvania
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Oldtimer
Yep !
I would look at make sure for your quesion to him on this. But with that code coming up on his display it will never start until that is out. Only way is to unhook the batt for a t least 1hr or to do it by the book on hold this and hit that and then do this crap with the key on acc.
Burning Brakes
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From: Mobile Alabama
Le Mans Master
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From: Rockledge FL
How fast did you dump in the "little bit"?
Although pulling in via the brake booster or PCV orifice is typical, it doesn't really matter where it's pulled in... in fact it doesn't matter at all anyway because it's a waste of time.
I seafoamed forever, still got pinging, pulled the heads and had tons of carbon to scrape. ALL additives are snake oil.
With that being said, pull your codes (easy to do on your dash, just search if you don't know how)... write them down, clear them all... most likely the car will start. If not, other codes will be produced. Post what they are.
If you'd rather phone support, PM your number, I'll be up till midnight and I'm in good mood, I can walk you through this. Git 'er done!
Although pulling in via the brake booster or PCV orifice is typical, it doesn't really matter where it's pulled in... in fact it doesn't matter at all anyway because it's a waste of time.
I seafoamed forever, still got pinging, pulled the heads and had tons of carbon to scrape. ALL additives are snake oil.
With that being said, pull your codes (easy to do on your dash, just search if you don't know how)... write them down, clear them all... most likely the car will start. If not, other codes will be produced. Post what they are.
If you'd rather phone support, PM your number, I'll be up till midnight and I'm in good mood, I can walk you through this. Git 'er done!
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From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Totally agree, if seafoam worked as well as it is reputed it should clean a carbon crusted intake valve if soaked in it right? I soaked a 40 year old intake out of the old head in my C3 for a month and when I finally remembered it was in there was no noticeable change in the hard caked carbon on the valve. People say that it is working because it is smoking when applied. That smoke is the light petroleum and naptha burning off.
I Seafoamed again to no avail, the picture below was about 300 miles after the last treatment.
When I pulled the heads, the backs of the intake valves were fairly clean and also the intake ports.... but the chambers, piston tops, and the back of the exhaust valves were hard caked. I actually needed a grinder to correct the exhaust valves, my little drill powered wire wheel had no chance.
Seafoam (and Techron) does nothing except clean the backs of the intake valves with regular use.
