Brake Fade Help needed.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,200
Likes: 34
From: Kingsville Ontario Canada
Brake Fade Help needed.
Hi everyone. I'm looking for some info. Hopefully someone can help me out here.
I just finished a complete Brake job on my 2002 Vette.
I painted the Calipers. installed new rotors, new pads, & installed Stainless Steel Brake lines.
With the help of a friend we bled the brakes in the order recommended in other threads on this forum. RR, LF, LR, RF.
We did this two times , using a complete litre of fluid.
There were no visible bubbles to be seen after the second bleed.
The problem is is that the brake pedal is still to soft on the initial push.
When you pump it it gets harder.
Does anyone know what my problem could be?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Mark
I just finished a complete Brake job on my 2002 Vette.
I painted the Calipers. installed new rotors, new pads, & installed Stainless Steel Brake lines.
With the help of a friend we bled the brakes in the order recommended in other threads on this forum. RR, LF, LR, RF.
We did this two times , using a complete litre of fluid.
There were no visible bubbles to be seen after the second bleed.
The problem is is that the brake pedal is still to soft on the initial push.
When you pump it it gets harder.
Does anyone know what my problem could be?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Mark
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 137
Likes: 11
From: Kingston Ontario
Pretty simple. You still have air in there. When you were bleeding did you let the master cylinder go down on fluid and suck air in at ANY time? Either way, I'd say keep bleeding.
I don't know about the order you did them, it's supposed to be the farthest from the reservoir to the closest. If you're just learning how to do it make sure you're doing it right.
You - Pump, pump, pump. Pump and hold.
Buddy - Release valve, watch for air, close, refill master.
Repeat.
I don't know about the order you did them, it's supposed to be the farthest from the reservoir to the closest. If you're just learning how to do it make sure you're doing it right.
You - Pump, pump, pump. Pump and hold.
Buddy - Release valve, watch for air, close, refill master.
Repeat.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,200
Likes: 34
From: Kingsville Ontario Canada
Pretty simple. You still have air in there. When you were bleeding did you let the master cylinder go down on fluid and suck air in at ANY time? Either way, I'd say keep bleeding.
I don't know about the order you did them, it's supposed to be the farthest from the reservoir to the closest. If you're just learning how to do it make sure you're doing it right.
You - Pump, pump, pump. Pump and hold.
Buddy - Release valve, watch for air, close, refill master.
Repeat.
I don't know about the order you did them, it's supposed to be the farthest from the reservoir to the closest. If you're just learning how to do it make sure you're doing it right.
You - Pump, pump, pump. Pump and hold.
Buddy - Release valve, watch for air, close, refill master.
Repeat.
The reservoir never got very low.
Thats exactly how we did it.
My Buddy and I worked together for years and did this on over 350 wheel chair conversion vans we built.
We will try to bleed them again.
What is the best brake fluid to use Dot 4 synthetic or Dot 3?
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 137
Likes: 11
From: Kingston Ontario
You can't mix synthetic with conventional in brakes at all. Unless you're tracking it I'd go with the recommended fluid, which I "believe" is DOT3.
You have plenty of experience, so that's not the issue. One option is to try something like the ATE Super Blue race fluid to ensure they're completely flushed through (it's coloured, so you know when it's through the line). Expensive stuff though. Make sure you bleed them after heating them up as well, and you may just find the bubbles that are hiding in there. Assuming it's safe to drive and you still can't find the air.
You have plenty of experience, so that's not the issue. One option is to try something like the ATE Super Blue race fluid to ensure they're completely flushed through (it's coloured, so you know when it's through the line). Expensive stuff though. Make sure you bleed them after heating them up as well, and you may just find the bubbles that are hiding in there. Assuming it's safe to drive and you still can't find the air.
