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So my car gets back from the body shop and I think, "this is great, to celebrate I am going to put on a set of headers"
XS power's are backordered for who knows how long and LG streets were not available either.
Then I find a set of Texas Speed ones ready to go so I say what the hell.
Everything goes great, installs in about 6 hours with no real issues getting it all together. Granted I still need to work out a few pipes tapping the frame issues so a little bending may be necessary but that isnt the problem.
The problem is as I was backing the car out of the garage, my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I took the car in a few months ago and was told that the clutch is fine even though i thought otherwise. If i would have known this I would have bought a new clutch instead of headers.
My car is modded as much as it is going to go, headers and LS6 intake so I am thinking that either a LS6 clutch or a LS7 clutch is going to be sufficient for what I need. I tried to order the ls7 clutch kit from gene today but his website is down.
The good thing is that you don't have trans problems, see how lucky you are!
When I started to read the OP I thought it we were headed for serious damage to the new body work. Glad that didn't happen!
I always hate to have to spend the same money twice and end up back where I was. At least when your done you'll have three improvements. The body work the headers and a new clutch!
Are you beginning to see just how damn lucky you are yet???????
i just wish why in the name of all that is holy did the clutch not stick as i was pulling it into the garage. i would have just packed it all up and taken it straight to the shop. There is no fluid leaking anywhere so it has to either be the slave cylinder or the pressure plate fingers right?
I ended up going with the stage 2 monster with lightweight flywheel.
figured it would give me plenty of room to stick in a cam once i am back from the desert. I am just glad it happened now and not the one time the wife needed to drive it after i deploy in a few months.
while i was at it i went ahead and got a thicker tunnel plate and speedbleeder.
I got sort of "lucky"- the oil pressure sending unit,and passenger side air check valve went out within 3 days of each other,and both located directly behind the intake manifold.
Waiting on a relocation kit from WCC for the sending unit,get to kill 2 birds with one stone.
Maybe I earned a little luck when I got to pull the drivetrain twice in 3 weeks when I fubared the pilot bearing the first time...
No chance you mashed(or melted) the clutch hydraulic line installing the headers,is there? (although mashing it may not even be possible,without actually trying)
I got sort of "lucky"- the oil pressure sending unit,and passenger side air check valve went out within 3 days of each other,and both located directly behind the intake manifold.
Waiting on a relocation kit from WCC for the sending unit,get to kill 2 birds with one stone.
Maybe I earned a little luck when I got to pull the drivetrain twice in 3 weeks when I fubared the pilot bearing the first time...
No chance you mashed(or melted) the clutch hydraulic line installing the headers,is there? (although mashing it may not even be possible,without actually trying)
that was the first thing i checked. unfortunately no. line is totally out of the way. I do hear fluid squirting and the level goes down when i push the pedal in but the fluid comes back up when i pull the clutch out. the wierd part is if i push the pedal hard, it has pressure and rebounds back to the top. if i ease the clutch in it goes straight to the floor with no pressure. any ideas on that one?
It does sound like it's internally leaking past the piston in the MC,but if it is,you should get some leakage around the pushrod,probably inside the car,not on the ground.
If it was the slave,the fluid level would drop(and stay dropped),and you'd have a puddle under the car almost immediately.
When you push hard (fast) on the pedal,does the clutch disengage?
When you push hard (fast) on the pedal,does the clutch disengage?
yes, if i push hard i can hear the clutch move under the center console and the car will roll backwards if i have the brake off. if i push easy and the pedal goes limp no rolling
It does sound like it's internally leaking past the piston in the MC,but if it is,you should get some leakage around the pushrod,probably inside the car,not on the ground.
If it was the slave,the fluid level would drop(and stay dropped),and you'd have a puddle under the car almost immediately.
When you push hard (fast) on the pedal,does the clutch disengage?
no leakage anywhere, fluid level stays the same. although when you get up under the dash and push the pedal in, you hear a hissing or a squirting like sound coming from the area of the master cylinder. Thing is, to bleed them out dont you have to pull a lot of stuff off already? I am guess that were I to replace it I would introduce air into the system when I disconnect the master right?
Replacing the master is pretty easy.
The Hydraulic line is held in the end of the MC with a roll pin,so you don't even have to mess with the "quick disconnect"(whoever named it was obviously kidding)
When I replaced mine,I installed it "dry",filled the reservoir,and pumped the pedal about an inch down repeatedly till the bubbles stopped coming up in the reservoir-it takes longer to jack it up and pull the front wheel than it does to change the assembly.
Judging by what you're experiencing,I would try the MC first...that "squirting" sound you hear sure makes it sound like the problem is in the master,not the slave.
If that's the case,your bad luck is nowhere near as bad as it could be....
yes, if i push hard i can hear the clutch move under the center console and the car will roll backwards if i have the brake off. if i push easy and the pedal goes limp no rolling
This has happened to me twice in my life. One on a 94 Vette and one on a 98 Ford F150.
Both times I changed everything, the lines, the slave, bled the system... both times this was a master cylinder internal leak. On the Vette there was NO evidence, on the F150 under the dash by the clutch where the master cylinder came into the cab, there was seepage.
Not that your flywheel and clutch are a bad idea, but it COULD be your MC.
within the last 6 months, someone posted with a problem similar to yours. If i remember correctly, he found the problem to be in the slave cylinder. The problem was with the fitting that goes into the slave cylinder and old fluid. The old fluid caused the small opening in the line to become restricted. The poster replaced the slave cylinder, drilled out the line to increase the flow and replaced the fluid. Good luck on this.
Seems my post may have gone un noticed..... Pull the carpet back and see if you see or feel any moisture around the m/c push rod area. (you may not even if it is bad) I would bet by what you describe the m/c is bleeding by internally.
Seems my post may have gone un noticed..... Pull the carpet back and see if you see or feel any moisture around the m/c push rod area. (you may not even if it is bad) I would bet by what you describe the m/c is bleeding by internally.
Seems my post may have gone un noticed..... Pull the carpet back and see if you see or feel any moisture around the m/c push rod area. (you may not even if it is bad) I would bet by what you describe the m/c is bleeding by internally.
actually after I read your post i went outside to take a look and posted back that i couldnt find any evidence of leaking.
i am still going to replace the master first. just in case. does it have to be real high in the air or can just the drivers side be up off of the ground?
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