Is there a how to on here somewhere talking about how to replace the clutch master. I keep seeing to do it through the fenderwell and that there is a quick release. Is it the same thing as disconnecting a fuel line or is there some other parts that have to be removed to swap it out. I am going to be trying that before I take the car in to get the clutch swapped. I have been reading a lot of posts that say a new master can fix a sticking pedal but i have yet to see a step by step how to.

Thanks

 

Contact JOEY at TICK, and I am sure they may be of some assistance whether you bought a TICK Adjustable Master Cylinder or not.

There biggest time consumers I ran into during removal was ONLY the clutch line separator. What a royal PITA!!! It works BEST if you have the $10.00 J-36221 Hydraulic Clutch Line Separator tool.

Some will use an open ended wrench, but you can destroy the little plastic thing in there that separates the line. Be forewarned, it is a PITA.

Mine was really worn out from previous installers so it took me almost an accumulative time period of just about 8 hours. Cutting the line was my LAST resort.

Somehow, I got it started using a pair of adjustable plumbing pipe pliers and worked it in a circle and after 2 days of getting pissed off, cussing up a storm, wanting to cut that bastard in half, it finally popped off.

Installation is a bit tricky. Use tape inside your wratchet when reseating the clutch pedal assembly bolts. Otherwise, be prepared for cussing. Seat removal helps ALOT!!! (Don't forget to disconnect the seat power connector)

Next, many folks have issues with the firewall gasket. Some say boil it to replace. If you are not using the TICK, I think yours will reseat just fine.

If you are inclined, I would suggest using a remote slave cable and run the line up to the top of the engine bay.

Do not forget to use GOOD heat shield around the line and especially around the clutch separator PITA connector. Keep that as clean and protected as best as possible.

Last, I suggest you strategically use strong zip-ties to keep the line from rubbing any other car parts, like headers etc. Make sure you use extra heat shield in that area to reduce friction rubbing.

I am no expert, but I learned the hard way. And my replacement took just about 1 friggen week!!! Hahahahaha Boy was I pissed all week!

Hahahahahaha BUT I DID IT!

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-cylinder.html

 

Thanks for the link. That explains why when I would type clutch master cylinder replacement into the search bar I wouldnt get that link. Clutch is like the thousandth word in the title.

 

LMAO

I have created an incredible local archive of the one million and one fixes/work arounds to our beloved C5

 

update, MC replaced. It looks like it has fixed the clutch problem. The pedal is firm and causes the clutch to release. Then it springs back into position when you let off on it. As soon as my PCM comes back from ECS I can start it up and see how it does on the road.

 

i just had it done at the shop and cost me 500 to get replaced.

 

Holy CHIT!!! No way Id pay that...

 

Wow $500. I had a shop quote me $450 for a clutch and hydraulic REPLACEMENT as long as i brought in the parts lol

 

500 for just the master?? jumpin jesus on a pogo stick.
it literally took longer to get the car up in the air, get the wheel off and the side panel out of the wheel well than it did to switch it out.

i hope he at least kissed you.