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Got on the freeway hard in third, shifted pretty aggressively into fourth...and upon releasing the clutch I realized that the damn clutch pedal was almost stuck to the floor.
I kept pushing on the clutch and there was very little stroke/travel left in it and it wouldn't return to it's normal position. I promptly took the next exit and had a hard time trying to downshift into a lower gear...pulled over as soon as I could.
Once pulled over I took my toe and slipped it under the clutch pedal and pulled upwards and the pedal "popped" back into it's normal position with full stroke, function and feel completely returned. I drove it around for the rest of the day without issues.
Any idea what happened here and what I need to do to fix this?
I follow the steps on from Ranger also, but I found that removing the spring on my clutch pedal helped out a good bit too. Ever since I did that, I haven't encountered this issue you mentioned. I do the clutch fluid tip that Ranger has drawn up regularly, but even then I had a sticky clutch pedal at times and the spring removal seemed to do the trick.
I'm amazed that you have a fairly well modified Z, and you are having a clutch issue only now. This is an old, and very extensive problem with even some stock motors, but pushing an extra 100 or so HP will exacerbate the issue even sooner. Don't expect the clutch fluid protocol to work for long; with normal wear, and a strong motor, the stock clutch is a very weak link. GL, and I hope the protocol works for you, but don't be surprised if a beefier aftermarket clutch set is in your future.
I'm amazed that you have a fairly well modified Z, and you are having a clutch issue only now. This is an old, and very extensive problem with even some stock motors, but pushing an extra 100 or so HP will exacerbate the issue even sooner. Don't expect the clutch fluid protocol to work for long; with normal wear, and a strong motor, the stock clutch is a very weak link. GL, and I hope the protocol works for you, but don't be surprised if a beefier aftermarket clutch set is in your future.
yeah well, apparently the last owner barely drove the thing (6k miles in 5 years)...and obviously not hard like I drive it. I also assumed I may have to upgrade the clutch when the last owner said it was stock. I plan on upgrading when $$ permits.
yeah well, apparently the last owner barely drove the thing (6k miles in 5 years)...and obviously not hard like I drive it. I also assumed I may have to upgrade the clutch when the last owner said it was stock. I plan on upgrading when $$ permits.
I hear ya. The stock clutch will last indefinately if you drive it easy. When I replaced mine I was surprised how little wear on the disc, and FW. I couldn't do my clutch for several months, so I could only get one redline shift, pull the pedal up with my foot, and drive it easy again. It was frustrating, to say the least.
I didn't know his power level or else i would have probably said the same thing. The C5Z clutch holds power well for bolt-ons after that you should soon be looking for an alternative. I would change the clutch fluid after every 3 passes or so on the strip and every session on the road course. It was just cheap insurance and normally never encountered a sticky pedal syndrome after starting this procedure. This was one of the first things i noticed when i had bought the car, previous owner i don't think ever touched the fluid. Spent a lot of time with ranger at the track, he said he pulled his LS6 clutch after 150 passes or so and it looked new. This was at stock power levels though. Great clutch for stock power levels and even holds well with bolt-ons.
Last edited by Stevo92z28; May 9, 2011 at 08:52 PM.
I didn't know his power level or else i would have probably said the same thing. The C5Z clutch holds power well for bolt-ons after that you should soon be looking for an alternative. I would change the clutch fluid after every 3 passes or so on the strip and every session on the road course. It was just cheap insurance and normally never encountered a sticky pedal syndrome after starting this procedure. This was one of the first things i noticed when i had bought the car, previous owner i don't think ever touched the fluid. Spent a lot of time with ranger at the track, he said he pulled his LS6 clutch after 150 passes or so and it looked new. This was at stock power levels though. Great clutch for stock power levels and even holds well with bolt-ons.
Head work/Cam/TB/LT's/CAI/Tune...supposedly 460rwhp last dyno. (we will see for sure this week when I dyno it myself). Regardless, a new clutch appears to be in order with how I plan on driving this thing. Great, there goes more $$$!
Head work/Cam/TB/LT's/CAI/Tune...supposedly 460rwhp last dyno. (we will see for sure this week when I dyno it myself). Regardless, a new clutch appears to be in order with how I plan on driving this thing. Great, there goes more $$$!
If you strap down on the dyno a C5Z at that power-level with a stock LS6 clutch, it is likely that the clutch will slip. After each pull, suggest sniffing the driver's-side firewall. If you smell eau de clutch, that's the indication, accompanied by squiggly traces within the rwhp and rwtq curves.
When the power of the motor>clamping force of the clutch, if the wheels can't spin, the clutch disc will.
If you strap down on the dyno a C5Z at that power-level with a stock LS6 clutch, it is likely that the clutch will slip. After each pull, suggest sniffing the driver's-side firewall. If you smell eau de clutch, that's the indication, accompanied by squiggly traces within the rwhp and rwtq curves.
When the power of the motor>clamping force of the clutch, if the wheels can't spin, the clutch disc will.
Ranger
Noted, thanks Ranger. I'm Dyno'ing it today so we'll see! Thanks again for your help.
Clutch fluid was completely refreshed today by TPS Motorsports and I went for a run in it tonight and I still had sticky pedal issues when driving it hard.
I guess that flush method is not going to be sufficient for my car.
The cheapest (relatively) thing to try next, would be a Tick adjustable MC. It's got increased fluid movement, and that might be all you need. That's something you're going to need to replace anyway, so if it doesn't fix the problem, you're just in too deep to get away cheap. A new clutch set, which includes clutch, flywheel, slave and master. (you've already done this...) I recommend researching aftermarket clutches at your power level, because a stock LS6 replacement isn't going to hold your TQ.
Even if it worked, I don't want to have to add clutch fluid every other day. I will look into the Tick MC...thanks. I hope I don't have to do a whole new clutch job to rid myself of these nagging clutch woes. That's more $$ than I wanted to spend on the clutch (when I have other performance parts to buy!)
after you replace the master and it fails again. buy a dual disk fidanza 6.5 clutch with aluminum flywheel and you are done for at least 150,000 miles i have put two in two c5's and they are just fricken amazin'!
after you replace the master and it fails again. buy a dual disk fidanza 6.5 clutch with aluminum flywheel and you are done for at least 150,000 miles i have put two in two c5's and they are just fricken amazin'!
Any place you suggest to look at / buy these? How much are they?