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Anybody got a picture of this hole they made in the wiper cover? I need to do mine. If I can do it without removing the intake I sure would love to try! I really haven't even looked close at the back of the engine where this thing sits. I'm assuming the wiper assembly is in the way of pulling it out straight back?
Anybody got a picture of this hole they made in the wiper cover? I need to do mine. If I can do it without removing the intake I sure would love to try! I really haven't even looked close at the back of the engine where this thing sits. I'm assuming the wiper assembly is in the way of pulling it out straight back?
I'll have to look up the procedure again for the wiper blades removal but there is a torque value for them.
This is a picture I took of mine just before re-assembly after I did the service bulletin on the knock sensor plugs. The sensor is the yellow/orange top component just to the rear of the valley.
Last edited by Jet-Jock; May 12, 2011 at 01:56 PM.
That's funny....not to you at the time I'm sure. I just cut a hole under the wiper cover and no problems.
Well, I too had this issue and I used a hole saw to cut the hole then put it on a hinge. I have read that so many folks had to replace it more than once. This way, it will be very easy for the next time. Besides you can't see it under the cover.
That's funny....not to you at the time I'm sure. I just cut a hole under the wiper cover and no problems.
I did this, too. I cut a square hole and then formed a piece of thin aluminum sheet to match the cowl area exactly and attached it with two screws. I also used a bit of RTV to seal against rain water leaking on the back of the engine. After all of my meticulous work, you can't even see it.
socket from lowes 9.45 drummel tool from 6 christmas ago and yiu tube video free cut hole in crawl 10min to make it look good time it took to change out sending unit 5 min works great !!!!!!!!!!!
socket from lowes 9.45 drummel tool from 6 christmas ago and yiu tube video free cut hole in crawl 10min to make it look good time it took to change out sending unit 5 min works great !!!!!!!!!!!
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
There's plenty of pix in the sticky. That's where I got my info from. I used a dremel and cut a square hole. Saved the piece and taped from underneath with aluminum tape then used some gray RTV and glued around the cut from the top. I feel since I cut the hole to make future repairs easy is why my sensor has lasted as long as it has. Later on I swapped out intakes to the later model one and it was easier than I thought it would be. Either method is fine.
So I bought one Friday after work and the special socket that goes on it. I opened my hood and took a look. Then I went to the computer to watch this video again. It kind of rustles and blanks as the camera goes in where that sender is. I kinda tried to get an idea from the video. I took a trouble light and tried to see if I could see it or get my hand in there to feel it. I have no idea how you guys are getting between the intake and the curved piece of metal below the windshield. And It doesn't seem like cutting that thing is a good idea as it seems to be designed to keep water out of the engine compartment. I haven't replaced any torque wrenches from my house fire a couple years ago so I decided it would have to be another time.
I took a look as well Saturday morning with my sensor socket on an extension just to see how well that access will work from the YouTube video, I could not get in there either. So, I'm planning now to do the cut method. I need to stop by the store and buy a few cutting wheels for the dremel.
After the sensor went in five months, I am not tearing the top half of my engine a part again for this procedure. That procedure requires draining the coolant, removing all the top end parts including the throttle body unless you just slide the manifold forward. But even then you have to remove the manifold to clean up the insides and install new gaskets for each port. I have pictures of the difference of those gaskets, and I wouldn't reuse them. And if you remove the throttle body that's another gasket. Plus the two foam pieces for the manifold.
I would say once the piece is cut and removed, fit a seal of some sort or seal the piece back in with a sealant material. Not only water must be kept out but engine gases as well.
I did notice my original factory sender appears to be brass while the two replacements from GM appear to be aluminum. If this one goes again, I'm finding the brass model somewhere to use.
The great thing about this forum is the info you get. Highly recommend in the future you garner as much information about a job on the forum before starting. "Junkman" who frequents another corvette forum did a great pic by pic blow by blow of the process. I ran into some of your problems when I did my knock sensors. There are some things you could of avoided by checking out the forums, first it has been documented greatly about the small vacume tube in the back (there is a trick to getting that sucker on), and covering your intakes ASAP before something falls in. The PVC hose system is crap (mine was just like yours 98 LS1), I went with a LS6 valley pan and a oil catch can. This did 2 things for me, first got me away from paying the dealer price of the PVC hoses, like over 140 bucks! Second, made a much cleaner setup and eliminates crap being recirculated thru your throttle body/intake. Course I decided to replace the LS1 intake with a LS6. GM made it better so I went with it. I guess there is 2 ways to look at it, do it on the cheap or take advantage of the failure and upgrade to a better setup. I like the latter, spent a few hundred bucks and had fun doing the upgrade instead of getting a headach. Again, for anyone use this forum and investigate the project!!
I'll have to look up the procedure again for the wiper blades removal but there is a torque value for them.
This is a picture I took of mine just before re-assembly after I did the service bulletin on the knock sensor plugs. The sensor is the yellow/orange top component just to the rear of the valley.
Didnt the duct tape leave nasty adhesive behind? That can be a PITA when putting back the intake as the adhesive may grab the o-rings as you slide the intake. I try to use blue painters tape.
The one I bought was from O'Reilly. I have had a few more knowledgable mechaincs tell me not to buy any electrical automotive parts from Autozone. I guess maybe GM isn't the best source either since these seem to be a problem. I looks to be brass. Hopefully I have the kind that won't go out after 6 months. If you get it done before me, let me know how it goes and I'll do the same.
Cutting a hole in my Vette will be hard to do. Also sounds more like what the Army did on helicopters when I worked on them than the Air Force when I was there. I feel like my Vette is more like the F-16 I worked on than the Huey's and Chinooks. ;~)
Let me know if you can sign off the red slash in your book.