Engine won't turn over, HELP
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,754
Likes: 380
From: South Florida FL
Engine won't turn over, HELP
It happened intermittently twice in a month or two.
basically, the starter won't engage.
so far I'm tried jumping the clutch switch, no luck so far, any more tips?
Schematics?
Note, I can jump start it and it runs fine, so it's Ignition/starter related, I'm also not even getting the "click" from the starter
basically, the starter won't engage.
so far I'm tried jumping the clutch switch, no luck so far, any more tips?
Schematics?
Note, I can jump start it and it runs fine, so it's Ignition/starter related, I'm also not even getting the "click" from the starter
Last edited by FourG63 97GST; May 25, 2011 at 07:03 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
Hard to diagnose just from that description... First thing to do as already mentioned is to check the battery connections, make sure they're nice and tight and not corroded. You could also have a bad ignition switch (pretty common problem) do a search for ignition switch repair and look for bill curlees thread; it's not a bad job. I had to do it to mine a couple years ago. You could also have a failing starter or starter solenoid.
Do you have any codes?
Do you have any codes?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,754
Likes: 380
From: South Florida FL
Thanks, Reason I dont think it battery related because there was no warning, or corrosion, I left the house fine, went to the atm, tried to start and got nothing.Jump started then drove home.
So far I will eliminate the actual ignition switch and clutch pedal switch.
I'm getting feedback at the passenger footwell, I hearing a click down there which should be a the bcm or some relay.
I'm going to check an signal to the starter seloniod, that should be the last electrical "stop"
I found this Schematic, it's a 98, but should be similar
So far I will eliminate the actual ignition switch and clutch pedal switch.
I'm getting feedback at the passenger footwell, I hearing a click down there which should be a the bcm or some relay.
I'm going to check an signal to the starter seloniod, that should be the last electrical "stop"
I found this Schematic, it's a 98, but should be similar
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,488
Likes: 1,743
From: Knoxville Tn
If a jump bypasses the problem, it is 99% that you either have a bad connection or a bad battery. Clean and tighten your terminals, do not over tighten, and try again. If this doesn't do it, take it to a battery shop and have your battery tested. The C-5 can be hard on bateries if you don't drive daily. Old batteries can also give you problems.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,866
Likes: 45
From: Tampa Bay, Go BUCS!!!Go Rays!!!Go Lightning!!!
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
If a jump bypasses the problem, it is 99% that you either have a bad connection or a bad battery. Clean and tighten your terminals, do not over tighten, and try again. If this doesn't do it, take it to a battery shop and have your battery tested. The C-5 can be hard on bateries if you don't drive daily. Old batteries can also give you problems.
The only thing a jump start can cure is a bad battery or bad connections to the battery. All the other electrical items are immediately ruled out.
Take it to an auto parts store and have the battery checked - IN THE CAR. That should find a bad connection (if there is one) at the same time.
GL
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Verdad Gallardo
Pro
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 671
Likes: 10
From: Tulsa OK
If a jump bypasses the problem, it is 99% that you either have a bad connection or a bad battery. Clean and tighten your terminals, do not over tighten, and try again. If this doesn't do it, take it to a battery shop and have your battery tested. The C-5 can be hard on bateries if you don't drive daily. Old batteries can also give you problems.
My money is on a bad battery, with battery connections being a close second. I've driven a car for two hours at highway speed stopped for a gas/snack/restroom break and the battery was so dead I didn't get a "click" when I tried to leave - internal short in a battery will kill it quick.
OBD
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,012
Likes: 508
From: Hilton NY
You should check the total current drain on the battery at rest, it should be about 30 ma after a minute when all the circuits are off. If a circuit stays on all the time when it should be off it can drain the battery enough so the car won't start until the battery is charged or jumped. The current won't be zero because the computers are always on causing the 30 ma drain which is normal.
Last edited by Fast one; May 26, 2011 at 04:13 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Or at least see if the cable connection is tight. I've seen quite a few threads here over the years from guys that had had loose battery cable connection at the solenoid. A loose ground connection on the side of the block can cause issues also.
