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Clutch woes

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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:56 AM
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Default Clutch woes

Well my 04 MN6 with 68k miles has been doing great until yesterday. I put it in reverse and engaged the clutch up a slight incline. Immediately I heard an ugly metallic grind and the unmistakable smell of a clutch. I assume I'm down to the rivets and the pressure plate is likely toast also, maybe the flywheel.

I've done clutches on a 240sx and my TR6. The DIY instructs seem pretty involved, dropping the whole rear axle and all.

Just how involved time and skill wise is this clutch job? Are most people staying stock, or the LS7 upgrade? The vehicle is a daily driver.

I assume I should go ahead and replace the slave and put in the remote bleeder?
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 04:38 PM
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The book time on the job is 10 hours, if you're doing in on the floor for the first time I'd expect it to take longer. With that being said I'd go ahead and replace the slave cylinder while in there which would be part of our premium package. I can also include a remote bleeder for 49.99 and would recommend the lightweight flywheel option to free up some additional power that the heavy LS7 would rob. The total on a Level 1 with all the mentioned upgrades would be $814.98 plus shipping. Feel free to call me if you have any questions.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 05:08 PM
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In the back yard under a tree on jack stands the job (not including clutch) was 3 weekends for me. The clutch (and pressure plate and flywheel and pilot bearing) would have added another day barring any problems.

The actual job itself is time consuming but not difficult and doesn't require any special tools. If you did a TR6 (I had a TR4A-IRS) you can handle this. It just comes out the bottom not the top.

Download "www.cajundude.com/dopeinstall.doc" for Dope's bible of the low tech how to.

Best of luck.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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if you need a new clutch, go with the monster, I went with the level 2 with the light flyweel. Rated at a higher hp than my car will see but still drives like stock.
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