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Is it advisable to use anti-seize compound on the threads of my new spark plugs? I read elsewhere that GM warns against using anti-seize on the threads. It stated that GM says to simply coat the threads of the new plug with synthetic oil. Any wisdom on this?
Use anti sieze on the threads.
Squeeze out of the tube/can & apply to the end of a pipe cleaner.
Just get enough to coat the threads & dont get messy & get any on the firing ends.
Good luck.
Only remove / install the plugs when the engine is stone cold otherwise you might sieze up one of the plugs or strip threads. Absolutely put a light coat of anti-sieze on the thread before installing new plug. You are working with dissimilar metals and there is a high possibility of galling, etc.
Don't want to highjack a thread, but you just said some powerful stuff there. I have 15K miles on my '04, original plugs, should I change them?
Don't waste your money on new plugs - they should go more than 50k miles without a problem or drop in performance. Many folks run them all the way to the GM recommended max mileage. I would remove them and apply some anti sieze to the threads. I have had several instances where plugs were run for a lot of miles and were frozen in the aluminum heads, requiring stripping of the threads for removal and helicoils to repair. A little time and preventative maintenance will go a long way towards solving future problems.
Don't waste your money on new plugs - they should go more than 50k miles without a problem or drop in performance. Many folks run them all the way to the GM recommended max mileage. I would remove them and apply some anti sieze to the threads. I have had several instances where plugs were run for a lot of miles and were frozen in the aluminum heads, requiring stripping of the threads for removal and helicoils to repair. A little time and preventative maintenance will go a long way towards solving future problems.
I agree...but if you're going to go to the efforts of just removing your plugs to apply a dab of anti-seize, it wouldn't be a stretch to have some new plugs/wires handy.
It's been my experience that a simple job like this is when poop happens. A plug porcelain breaks or a spark plug wire is damaged.
If you decide not to R&R the plugs, at least spray some non-chlorinated brake cleaner around each spark plug to remove built up contaminants. You should do that prior to any spark plug R&R anyway.
Don't waste your money on new plugs - they should go more than 50k miles without a problem or drop in performance. Many folks run them all the way to the GM recommended max mileage. I would remove them and apply some anti sieze to the threads. I have had several instances where plugs were run for a lot of miles and were frozen in the aluminum heads, requiring stripping of the threads for removal and helicoils to repair. A little time and preventative maintenance will go a long way towards solving future problems.
I replaced my plugs and put anti-seize on them a light coat. Metal and aluminum don't like each other, and Like posted above, do it with the engine cold. But since I changed my plugs, I don't plan on changing them for another 100.000 miles.
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Some plugs have anti seize on the threads new and the manufacture does not recommend adding additional anti seize to the threads unless you remove them and reinstall.
By the way, similar metals are far more likely to seize than dissimilar metals. And yes, you should reduce the torque used when tightening plugs that have antisieze on them. Exactly how much is a tough one to answer, however.
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Well when you remove the plugs you'll see why you need the never seize. They're gonna creak and groan and scare the crap out of you. Have new wires on hand because they tend to get destroyed when you remove them. Also check for the platinum puck on the electrode, lots of time you'll find the puck missing. You'll need an assortment of extensions and swivels to get to a couple of them.
Don't want to highjack a thread, but you just said some powerful stuff there. I have 15K miles on my '04, original plugs, should I change them?
I brought my 2000 Vette with 15k on it 12/09 I now have 20k, I decided that the car was ten years old and decided to change plugs and put the red wires on. Thought that I might be wasting time changing the plugs, but on removing the plugs I found about four that had excessive gaps on them that was visible without a gauge. Now the car runs better. So I would say go ahead change the plugs, get a piece of mind.
Also I only put syn oil on the threads, no problems.
I use anti-sieze very lightly on the plug threads and a little dab of dialectic grease inside the plug boots before snapping them in place. If you're changing the plugs for the first time, deffinitely change the wires. Pulling them off is going to damage them one way or another, almost a sure thing. The outer covering stretches but the core does not, it breaks.....
I brought my 2000 Vette with 15k on it 12/09 I now have 20k, I decided that the car was ten years old and decided to change plugs and put the red wires on. Thought that I might be wasting time changing the plugs, but on removing the plugs I found about four that had excessive gaps on them that was visible without a gauge. Now the car runs better. So I would say go ahead change the plugs, get a piece of mind.
Also I only put syn oil on the threads, no problems.
That excessive gap was the pucks missing!! I only had one missing the puck on my 99...which had the original plugs in it at 30000 miles.
When I had the my old T/A there was a thread similar to this as to why NOT to use anti sieze. I dont remember why, but it convinced me not to, and to just use some oil