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Old 02-23-2015, 05:52 PM
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C5 Parking Brake / Ebrake fix / adjustment

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Old 05-01-2013, 10:43 PM   #41
WannaC5Z
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I am assuming this is the same on Z06 models? This is such a stupid backwards way of creating an emergency brake system! I love my Vette but am a Ford man at heart. It was so much easier to adjust a Mustang's ebrake. I had my Cobra for 9 years and never had a weak ebrake. I have had this car two months and the ebrake will NOT hold the car at all on any non flat surface. Not looking forward to wasting my time adjusting this. Thanks for the write up tho!
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:07 PM   #42
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I believe the Z06 is exactly the same. If I am not mistaken only the front brakes are upgraded on that model.
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:38 AM   #43
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Default rotor drum clearance

Quote:
Originally Posted by QwikC View Post
However this may serve further interests, found it on another website...


Two issues here:

1) adjusting the slack in the cable can be done by rolling backward and pumping the e brake handle 5 or 6 times, this is designed in to adjust only the cable slack.

2 adjusting the shoe (ONE SHOE)... there is only "one'"shoe -- it's a Mono-shoe with a split.... this is the usual culprit. Before I left GM I tried to address this issue, but red tape made it impossible to get an adjustment check "On the line" at BG.

Adjusting the "Shoe is a simple matter of removing the wheel, caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor. (Note be sure the Ebrake is disengaged)
Once the rotor is off you can "click the star adjuster," rotating it in such a manner as to spread the Mono-shoe and increase the outside diameter.

The usual adjustment is around 20 to 40 clicks:
Adjust the star ten click and try to put the rotor back on.
It may be tight but if it goes on, it is not adjusted properly.
Adjust the star again ten more clicks, see if it goes on....
Do this at ten click and no more per each try.... somewhere between 20 and 40 clicks, the rotor will be impossible to put on.
Once you find this point, you then back off on the star 3 or 4 click until your can force the rotor over the shoe.

If you can force the rotor on by hand you are doing good...here is where most people fail in their attempt to adjust properly..,

Once the rotor sits flush on the hub boss, there will be alittle more clearance for the shoe, so forcing it on will not be a "too tight" issue.
You can not force the rotor over the shoe and have it too tight, it just wont happen.

Once you make this adjustment to both rear wheels, you should see that your e brake lever locks up the ebrake at about 45 degrees, 90 degrees being straight up...

Disengaging the ebrake will occur at about 35 degrees...

Once this is done properly, you will be able to stop your car with the ebrake doing 20 miles an hour and you will never feel the ebrake is inadequate.
Mine has a lip on the drum that makes it hard to start but after it is in all the way it frees up. I assume the lip is present due to drum wear over time and the drum should be turned so this lip is gone and make it easier to slide on or is this lip present to aid in adjusiting like you indicated, (hard to start but after seated brakes are adusted correctly). Not sure if I need to turn drums or not. In trying to adjust mine they I got the drum tight and in removing it to loosen it up a bit I pulled the spring off and it was a pain to bet back on so I am a little leary of getting it to tight. My question is should I have drum turned to remove the lip, lip isn't very big. Thanks
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:53 AM   #44
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Great write up. thanks
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:18 PM   #45
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great reply very helpful unlike the first i received. thank you. i dont know that the ebrake shoe is worn out but i do know that the rotors dont want to come off and the lever goes to 90 degrees and holds sometimes. i may damage the shoes removing the rotors, which im replacing,so i want to be prepared to change them. Thank you again for responding and taking the time to do so
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:36 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by dustysix View Post
great reply very helpful unlike the first i received. thank you. i dont know that the ebrake shoe is worn out but i do know that the rotors dont want to come off and the lever goes to 90 degrees and holds sometimes. i may damage the shoes removing the rotors, which im replacing,so i want to be prepared to change them. Thank you again for responding and taking the time to do so
Your welcome, but you posted to the thread i referenced here not your original thread. But good luck.
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:56 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson-rod View Post
Gloves?

Just bustin'
What was that ugly red crusty looking stuff all over the parts?
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:57 PM   #48
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It worked great, thanks!
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:40 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QwikC View Post
However this may serve further interests, found it on another website...


Two issues here:

1) adjusting the slack in the cable can be done by rolling backward and pumping the e brake handle 5 or 6 times, this is designed in to adjust only the cable slack.

2 adjusting the shoe (ONE SHOE)... there is only "one'"shoe -- it's a Mono-shoe with a split.... this is the usual culprit. Before I left GM I tried to address this issue, but red tape made it impossible to get an adjustment check "On the line" at BG.

Adjusting the "Shoe is a simple matter of removing the wheel, caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor. (Note be sure the Ebrake is disengaged)
Once the rotor is off you can "click the star adjuster," rotating it in such a manner as to spread the Mono-shoe and increase the outside diameter.

The usual adjustment is around 20 to 40 clicks:
Adjust the star ten click and try to put the rotor back on.
It may be tight but if it goes on, it is not adjusted properly.
Adjust the star again ten more clicks, see if it goes on....
Do this at ten click and no more per each try.... somewhere between 20 and 40 clicks, the rotor will be impossible to put on.
Once you find this point, you then back off on the star 3 or 4 click until your can force the rotor over the shoe.

If you can force the rotor on by hand you are doing good...here is where most people fail in their attempt to adjust properly..,

Once the rotor sits flush on the hub boss, there will be alittle more clearance for the shoe, so forcing it on will not be a "too tight" issue.
You can not force the rotor over the shoe and have it too tight, it just wont happen.

Once you make this adjustment to both rear wheels, you should see that your e brake lever locks up the ebrake at about 45 degrees, 90 degrees being straight up...

Disengaging the ebrake will occur at about 35 degrees...

Once this is done properly, you will be able to stop your car with the ebrake doing 20 miles an hour and you will never feel the ebrake is inadequate.
I used this method a couple of years ago to adjust my parking bakes and it worked great. It's getting to be about time to do it again and I will use this procedure again.
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:39 PM   #50
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Mine has never worked on my 1999. it feels like the cable is not hooked up.

Last edited by Bajapit; 06-25-2014 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:54 PM   #51
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Needed to inspect my 02 C5 and realized the hand brake wasn't working. The hand brake mechanism that automatically causes tension to the cable was rusted.

I didn't need to remove the drivers side seat to do this. I remove everything in the center console and the leather boot that covers the hand brake. It's just two 10mm bolts and some velcro. I can see the cable moving but no tension. Sprayed a lot of Pb blaster and yanked on the brake like a maniac, which did nothing. So I got my longest pair of needle nose pliers and grabbed the visible cable. While holding it, I lifted the handle a few times and that did it. Threw in some 3in1 oil and some lithium grease for added prevention.
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:35 AM   #52
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Just to add to the mix here, I know it has been a while since anyone posted here but if someone else is reading this and needs help getting the spring back in the parking brake shoe as I did, this will HELP. Type in New product parking brake tool 49.95. It is another link in this forum to help you get the spring back in without taking the hub off. There is no tool just using zip ties to place it back into the shoe. Also if you take some rough emery cloth and knock down the outer edge of the inner drum where the shoe rides it will allow you to get a much better adjustment on your shoes the first time. This is so the shoes do not get caught on false lip of the drum when trying to get them back on! Hope this helps someone as it is a pain in the #%(@&%@.
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Old 01-08-2016, 09:52 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroToSixty View Post
Parking brake, E brake, Emergency brake,..........all I know is it is convenient to have when parking a vehicle with a manual transmission and you need it to pass inspection (for both state and most types of motorsports)


Really? I wont pass tech at nhra/ihra witout one? Im actually removing for weight savings and gonna use line lock for parking WHile running)..
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:15 AM   #54
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A few extra pictures,......
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:16 AM   #55
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Another
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:22 AM   #56
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Another,....
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:27 AM   #57
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Another,.....
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:40 AM   #58
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Another,...
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Last edited by ZeroToSixty; 09-23-2016 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:58 PM   #59
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Is the adjuster only on the driver's side?
The adjuster is supposed to be adjusted out. Which way is out?
IE is it turning like a toilet paper roll? if the roll is at 6 o'clock?
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:07 PM   #60
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Default C5 parking brake ratchet

Cannot find replacenent parking brake assembly. Ratchet does not work, but when hold in the pawl it does work. Has anyone rebuilt one? Where do I get the parts?
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