A/C Question, Vette noob....
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From: Tyler Texas
Ok, well not sure who Gene Culley is or how or who to ask about a lense. I wont be home for a week so cant check anything till then. Can you point me in the right direction for finding a lense from Gene? It might not even be cracked cause I didnt really get down there an look at it really close. Sucks being two hours away from the car and not being able to do anything, LOL! Can you change the lense out without removing unit from car again? Would like to do it all at one time especially if it has to come out.
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From: Tyler Texas
Missed that about the battery cables. On the pass. side footwell there is a compartment that houses the fuse box. Move the floor mat & you'll see 2 black plastic latches. Lift those & remove the cover. To the right, there is a black box with a large ****. remove that cover. Don't bother the silver box. On the inside of the cover is a fuse diagram. Locate #27 fuse (there is another fuse for the HVAC, but you don't have to remove that one). Pull it out for at least 1 minute (not 59 sec), then replace. The car does not have to be started or the ignition on. This is what I was referring to in post #6, not the positive battery cable. The battery cable has to be removed for at least 10 minutes to take effect & sometime doesn't cure the re-calibration.
tracer1
tracer1
Burning Brakes
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From: Aiken SC
Hi Glen.....Gene owns gmpartshouse.com. Great guy to work with. You can contact him through the forum, online, or give him a call. You might want to post a WTB (want to buy) broken display on the forum. Never know.
Let me know how it turns out.
tracer1
Let me know how it turns out.
tracer1
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Aiken SC
Hi Glen......Here is a pic of the AC display illuminated. Everything lights up, Some buttons have a on light only when in use.
1. OFF.......................lights automatically
2. AC .......................lights when on
3. recirculate, etc........lights depending on which is used
4. front defroster.........lights when in use
5. rear defroster..........lights when in use
6. blue & red control.....lights (pass & driver) automatically
7. fan, auto, mode........lights automatically
This is a pic that tsar posted some time back with led bulbs installed. If I were to replace any bulbs, I would do the led mod & I would let tstar do it. He's really good at it & I don't think the price is high. He would probably do the lens & display at the same time. If you just want the display to work (& change the lens), I can do that, no charge. Just pay the shipping to & from.
Hope that helps.
tracer1
1. OFF.......................lights automatically
2. AC .......................lights when on
3. recirculate, etc........lights depending on which is used
4. front defroster.........lights when in use
5. rear defroster..........lights when in use
6. blue & red control.....lights (pass & driver) automatically
7. fan, auto, mode........lights automatically
This is a pic that tsar posted some time back with led bulbs installed. If I were to replace any bulbs, I would do the led mod & I would let tstar do it. He's really good at it & I don't think the price is high. He would probably do the lens & display at the same time. If you just want the display to work (& change the lens), I can do that, no charge. Just pay the shipping to & from.
Hope that helps.
tracer1
Last edited by tracer1; Jun 22, 2011 at 10:37 AM.
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From: Tyler Texas
Yeah I have been in touch with him just waiting for the right time to mail it off. Thanks for the offer Tracer that is very stand up!!
By the way I messed with the car this morning and pressed mode and auto and I cant tell that anything is changing as far as where the air is blowing out. Still stays in the floor and vents both. Its at the tint shop right now and when it gets out Im gonna pull the #27 fuse and see what happens. If nothing pull the battery and try to find that vac line and trace it down.
By the way I messed with the car this morning and pressed mode and auto and I cant tell that anything is changing as far as where the air is blowing out. Still stays in the floor and vents both. Its at the tint shop right now and when it gets out Im gonna pull the #27 fuse and see what happens. If nothing pull the battery and try to find that vac line and trace it down.
Last edited by Glen1978; Jun 23, 2011 at 01:34 PM.
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From: Tyler Texas
Pulled the #27 fuse and kept it out about 5 minutes, no change. Air still blows from everywhere and auto or mode does not change a thing. I pulled the codes on the DIC (ones I stated earlier in the post) and reset them and cant get it to throw anything else. Guess its time to start chasing vac lines.....fun fun. Any other ideas?????
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Aiken SC
Pulled the #27 fuse and kept it out about 5 minutes, no change. Air still blows from everywhere and auto or mode does not change a thing. I pulled the codes on the DIC (ones I stated earlier in the post) and reset them and cant get it to throw anything else. Guess its time to start chasing vac lines.....fun fun. Any other ideas?????
Don't know if I told you, welcome to the forum.
tracer1
Last edited by tracer1; Jun 23, 2011 at 09:29 PM.
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From: Tyler Texas
Thanks man. I'm fairly familiar with the Ls motors but more along the LQ4/9 engines. Great engines an easy to tear down. Just add the Vette in the mix an it changes the equation a bit.
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Ok I just bought a 98 vett and having this same problem. So far this is where I'm at, my display is out on my hvac panel and I have Luke warm air coming out the center vent and my driver door vent but the passenger side is freezing cold.
1: I switch the mode and could hear and feel the air move from top vents to floor and then to defrost so I'm guessing the vacume lines are ok?
2: I also pulled the number 27 fuse, tried 4 times nothing changed.
3: pulled up my codes in my dic, no code thrown in the hvac section. Just in the a0-ldcm, a1-rdcm and b0-rfa (they were all history codes)
So what the hell do I do now? I mean it's just killing me how cold my passenger side is and the driver side is not.
1: I switch the mode and could hear and feel the air move from top vents to floor and then to defrost so I'm guessing the vacume lines are ok?
2: I also pulled the number 27 fuse, tried 4 times nothing changed.
3: pulled up my codes in my dic, no code thrown in the hvac section. Just in the a0-ldcm, a1-rdcm and b0-rfa (they were all history codes)
So what the hell do I do now? I mean it's just killing me how cold my passenger side is and the driver side is not.
Burning Brakes
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From: Aiken SC
Check the freon level..Have it checked by someone with the proper gauges, relative to the temp & humidity. I know blowing cold on one side, you think the freon is ok. That's not always the case. Don't just throw some freon in it. Have it Checked. Could be the actuators but the freon is an easy check, unless you want to tear your dash apart. If you have any hvac codes appear, reset them. If they reappear, reset them again. You can do this with the ac on, & this will sometimes re-calibrate the acctuators. Sometimes takes 3-4 tries. If you change the air flow and hear clicking sounds when the actuators change, that's an indication of broken teeth or cracked gears on the actuator. Again, I would have the freon checked first.
tracer1
tracer1
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Check the freon level..Have it checked by someone with the proper gauges, relative to the temp & humidity. I know blowing cold on one side, you think the freon is ok. That's not always the case. Don't just throw some freon in it. Have it Checked. Could be the actuators but the freon is an easy check, unless you want to tear your dash apart. If you have any hvac codes appear, reset them. If they reappear, reset them again. You can do this with the ac on, & this will sometimes re-calibrate the acctuators. Sometimes takes 3-4 tries. If you change the air flow and hear clicking sounds when the actuators change, that's an indication of broken teeth or cracked gears on the actuator. Again, I would have the freon checked first.
tracer1
tracer1
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From: Tyler Texas
Ok, pulled the battery and tray out and sure enuff broke vac line. Problem is that the end heading towards the car is there but the one to the motor is MIA..... Can someone post up a pic or a good description of where it goes to the back of the motor? Is there NO WAY to replace it without pulling intake? I tried to look back there with a mirror and flashlight but dont know what or where to look. Any help is appreciated. Appeared to have had a battery that leaked a hair but not bad at all.
Burning Brakes
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From: Aiken SC
Glen, you can go to digital corvette, there is a post by junkman (it's a sticky at the beginning of the forum), with detail steps on fixing the line. This has pics & step by step details of the vacuum line. The post is "replacing oil sensor", I believe. If you can't find it, let me know & I'll send you pics also. It's about removing the intake to replace the oil sensor but it has good pics of the vacuum line. Bill Curlee's post is excellent also.
tracer1
tracer1
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From: Tyler Texas
Well back at it again today. I did some reading this morning and now Im more confused. Someone had said that the vac line is hidden in the middle of the wiring harness. I cut into it and sure enuff there is a black plastic line thats intact inside. I still have one poking up (coming from vac cans towards battery) that is broken and cannot find another broken end that would correspond with it. I was able to pull the coil cover and visually verify that there is a vac line connected to the back of the intake. I pulled on it a little and it was connected to something cause it sure didnt pull out like I was hoping.
So two questions really.
1.) does that vac line from intake manifold to cans run solo out of the harness?
2.) if not what is the line in the wiring harness and what is the broken one I have.
So two questions really.
1.) does that vac line from intake manifold to cans run solo out of the harness?
2.) if not what is the line in the wiring harness and what is the broken one I have.
Last edited by Glen1978; Jun 26, 2011 at 01:50 PM.
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From: Tyler Texas
GOT IT!! Kept digging around in there and finally found it broke where it goes into the firewall. I think I have enuff good vac line coming thru the grommet I can put a splice of some sort in there. Headin to the parts store.