Just picked up a 02 Z06 this week and noticed on the way home that I was pretty warm on my side and the passenger was freezing. My side was blowing cold but not quite as cold as his and not NEAR as hard. Also seems to be a ton of air going to the legs on the passenger side below dash. I did a search on here about the actuators and how to reset them. Did all that and nothing I can tell has changed. Also checked for codes and got BO 361 HC and BO 441 H. My dual climate light is out so cant really tell whats going on with it but was wondering about the ***** on it. Passenger side turns so far either way and stops, driver side turns indefinitely......Normal? Any help for the noobie? I know search and I tried but cant find out about the *****.

 

I can help with the *****. The condition you describe is normal. The driver's side continues to turn but the temp display stops. The passenger side stops left and right, with the center being equal to the driver's setting. Rotating the passenger side adjusts the passenger side temp up and down slightly from the driver's setting.
Did you clear the codes after you reset the actuators?

 

Mine has done that a few times and I disconnected the battery for 15mins and it's worked again.

 

How did you re-calibrate the actuators?

tracer1



 

Did you try reseting the codes, with the engine off, and the AC off. Then let us know what comes back. Also, check if you can redirect where the air comes out of the vents, middle, upper, lower, etc, and make sure its not coming from other places where it should not.

 

Re-Calibrating the Actuators

Use the following step to perform the calibration update:

1. Turn off the ignition.
2. Remove the battery positive voltage circuit Fuse of the HVAC control module located in the floor of the pass. side fuse box (fuse #27 only).

Important: The module memory Will Not Clear if the battery positive voltage circuit fuse is re-installed in less than 60 (59 won’t reset it) seconds.

3. Wait 60 seconds minimum.
4. Re-install #27 fuse.
5. Start car, turn on AC

I have seen it take several tries with the fuse & I’ve heard reports this can be done with the car started & AC on. I’ve did mine without doing it this way. But nothing gained, nothing lost.

One thing that will throw your actuators out of whack is spinning the temperature selection **** (driver side) too fast. If you turn the dial from 90 degrees all the way to 60 degrees in one quick spin, it sometimes doesn’t give the computer that controls the HVAC time to react correctly. This can sometimes cause one side to blow hot and the other side to blow cold. You can often reset this problem by turning the temperature all the way up or down, turn the HVAC off, then back on again, and then SLOWLY rotate the **** all the way in the opposite direction.

Hope this helps.

tracer1

 

Just to clear this up, did you say that you cannot see the temp light on the control unit? My point being, is that he may just be spinning the **** without any idea where it should be, thus possibly throwing the codes. But, it sounds like you may have more than one issue here. I would say clear the codes, then with the car running, turn the control slowly until it is cold on the passenger side, than check for codes again. Finally, run the different modes to see if it indeed changes where the air comes out. Post back what you find.

 

Since there is a lot of air blowing from other locations, the vacuum line from the rear of the intake to the canisters in the passenger side needs to be checked also. I would work from the canisters up before pulling the intake. In the OP, he said the display was out. But that's an easy fix.

tracer1

 

Check the refrigerant to see if you are low. The compressors in these cars are know to have leaks.

 

Yeah light on control is completely out so not sure whats going on with there. I wana get that fixed first and then start diagnosing from there. Who is the recommended fixer on that around here? Saw some on Ebay but would rather pad a forum members pocket. Check refrigerant level second and then go further. I pulled the battery cables off for about 20 minute and it didnt seem to change anything. Went for a ride last night in it and passenger side was blowing cold and driver side was blowing cool at best. How do I clear the codes in the dic?

 

Where are these canisters and how do I check them. The air seems to be blowing from vents under the dash not just in random places like a duct is completely off or something. But it blows out of dash, transmission hump vents and the feet ducts.....first vette so dont know whats normal. Plus the display light being out doesnt help.

 

While holding the options button, push the fuel button four times. It will come up with the diagnostics which you can let it go through on its own, or manually go through it by hitting the options again (I think) . The one you are looking for is in the HVAC area, to clear it (if there is a code) hold the reset button until it clears. Make sure to note if they have a H or C after them. You might put an ad in the for sale area and see if anyone has a working head unit to sell? I have one, but its out of a 99.

 

most of the time on your display, it's just a matter of re-soldering the 241 resistors. This is really an easy fix if you want to do it yourself. There are post on the forum with pics & step by step instructions. If you don't want to do that, send it to me (you pay shipping to & from) & will be glad to fix it for you.
How was the AC working when you got the car?

There is a very small black vacuum line from the rear of the intake manifold to the pass footwell. Junkman (on digital corvettes) has a sticky there with pics on how to remove the intake. Very good write-up. I would take the battery & battery tray out and see if it damaged there. Sometimes battery acid will eat through that line causing a break. If that's the case, it can be repaired. Follow the line and you will find the canisters. Usually, it's loose @ the intake or broken below the battery. First of all, can you direct the airflow with the display, i.e. defrost, floor, dash vents, etc. If you can direct the airflow, the vacuum line should be OK. If the airflow is equal when you direct it, then have your AC checked for leaks/low freon. Just don't dump freon in it just to be doing it. That's just a bandaid if something is wrong.

Checking your codes can be found in the owners manual. If you don't have one, let me know and I'll give you the procedure or you can go to Gene Culley @ gmpartshouse.com and get it. Any codes with an H are history codes & not to be concerned with. Codes with a C are current. Best thing to do, is clear all the codes, start the car, after a few minutes, check for new codes. Write these down, post them here. If all else fails & you can't solve this, do a search for Bill Curlee's post. If anybody on this forum can diagnose it, he can.
Hope this helps.

tracer1

 

Just turn your ignition key to the on position, don't start the car.

tracer1

 

The air should only be blowing out of the vent(s) you direct it to, not all of them at the same time. Did you re-set the actuators per post #6?

tracer1

 

I think his problem is compond in that he can't see the display to know where the air is suppose to be going, or the temp hes trying to set, or anything? Anyway, thats what it sounds like to me, is that correct Glenn?

 

but if he puts it on auto, it should blow only out his dash vents, if I'm not mistaken. He could then max the blower to see if it's going anywhere else. But , of course, I may be wrong on this. Definitely, the display working is a plus.

tracer1

 

Yeah I have never had a vette and dont have any friends that have one to compare it to so I dont know what they "should" be doing. I need to get the display fixed first then diagnose from there as I cant tell where its suppose to be blowing from. I only had the car two days before I had to go back to work (I work in the oilfield and have to stay on location for 7 or 14 days then off for the same amount). Im pretty sure the display is cracked too from P/O tapping it when it was going dim. I would like to also get that fixed. Can you do that also Tracer1? I would be glad to pay you something if you could fix it up for me. When I get home....whenever that is....I will check/clear the codes and see what comes back. I did pull the battery cables to recalibrate the actuators.

 

Changing the plastic isn't a problem. Getting one may be, without buying a complete unit. I don't know if Gene Culley could help on just the faceplate or not. Someone on the forum may have one that's beyond fixing. You can still get your display working & change the faceplate later.
Your dual climate has a auto button on it. When you get the chance, start your car, press the auto button, & see if it is blowing anywhere but the dash vents. After a few seconds, press the mode button to see if the direction is changed. If the actuators are working, it should change direction & should not be any air coming out of the dash. Even with the display not working that should give some indication of how the actuators are working. You can't tell the temp but you should be able to tell the airflow direction. At least that's a starting point. Post what is happening. There are a lot of very experienced people on this forum and someone I'm sure will figure it out for you.
BTW, no charge on fixing the display. I just hope the p/o hasn't really hurt it by pounding on it.

tracer1

 

Missed that about the battery cables. On the pass. side footwell there is a compartment that houses the fuse box. Move the floor mat & you'll see 2 black plastic latches. Lift those & remove the cover. To the right, there is a black box with a large ****. remove that cover. Don't bother the silver box. On the inside of the cover is a fuse diagram. Locate #27 fuse (there is another fuse for the HVAC, but you don't have to remove that one). Pull it out for at least 1 minute (not 59 sec), then replace. The car does not have to be started or the ignition on. This is what I was referring to in post #6, not the positive battery cable. The battery cable has to be removed for at least 10 minutes to take effect & sometime doesn't cure the re-calibration.

tracer1