Higher Mile Car
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 6
From: Pittsburgh PA
Higher Mile Car
Have my eye on a 99 Vert coming up on auction where I buy my wrecked vehicles. Looks pretty clean from the photos except for the left frt. It's also the color (Blue) that I have been lusting after. It's a 6spd car with 115,000 on it.
So what sort of problems would one expect? I have been told the LS1 will run forever. But what about clutch, trans, suspension and any other things I should be concerned with? Looks to have the stock exhaust on it. Wheels are chrome with thin spokes.
Any advise welcome and appreaciated. Don't bother telling me I'm nuts though cause I already know that.
Ironically, NADA considers 115thou low miles on a 99.
So what sort of problems would one expect? I have been told the LS1 will run forever. But what about clutch, trans, suspension and any other things I should be concerned with? Looks to have the stock exhaust on it. Wheels are chrome with thin spokes.
Any advise welcome and appreaciated. Don't bother telling me I'm nuts though cause I already know that.
Ironically, NADA considers 115thou low miles on a 99.
Last edited by fendermender; Jun 19, 2011 at 04:24 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,119
Likes: 156
From: Huntington tx
If you factor in the obvious..That you should expect to R&R the clutch and pressure plate, replace all the belts/tensioners and hoses.
Make your bid, and you want be put out IF it does need those things. Because you already know ANY car needs maintence through out it's service life.
It's just a crap shoot since you are purchasing it from an auction. But as long as you preplan to expect those costs, it's all good in the longrun.
Make your bid, and you want be put out IF it does need those things. Because you already know ANY car needs maintence through out it's service life.
It's just a crap shoot since you are purchasing it from an auction. But as long as you preplan to expect those costs, it's all good in the longrun.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 6
From: Pittsburgh PA
Yes good to plan for possibilities. Like you said, it's a crap shoot but sometimes it pans out OK.
One thing I should have mentioned is that it does run and drive. Not that you could take it on the road. But maybe enough to tell if the drivetrain is sound.
One thing I should have mentioned is that it does run and drive. Not that you could take it on the road. But maybe enough to tell if the drivetrain is sound.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 291
From: Allyn WA
Just lucky?
I bought a 98 with 132K and didnt think twice! But the car was imaculate! The car looked like brand new, I took it home then looked at car fax and found out it was a dealer fleet car (whatever that means) for 7 years! The first time I looked up the codes was 8 months later when the knock sensor went out anfd learned how to call up the codes here on the web sight. I had the knock sensor rear come up and that was it. This car is in fantastic condition and maybe someone did all the replacements of things that usually go wrong. The engine bay looks brand new and even when I pulled the intake to replace the knock sensor I was surprised at how clean the entire engine was. Reading about other folks problems her on the forum makes me believe it is a crap shoot, it doesnt matter so much about mileage more than repair history. I think if the car constantly requires repair it can be a 22K car or a 132K car, then you get these guys that go out and pay extreem price for a car with low miles, I am thinking they are going to be doing alot of repalcements (clutch ect.) let along having to fork out for new tires (I would not trust tires that are 10 13 years old).
Checking the car out is what is needed as I said I was pure lucky!
Checking the car out is what is needed as I said I was pure lucky!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 6
From: Pittsburgh PA
Here is a link to the photos.
http://www.salvagedirect.com/asp/vie...id=883666#pics
Any red flags apparent?
I just spotted the drilled rotors and looks like an aftermarket air intake.
http://www.salvagedirect.com/asp/vie...id=883666#pics
Any red flags apparent?
I just spotted the drilled rotors and looks like an aftermarket air intake.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,040
Likes: 1
From: Motorsports Capital of the World..Indianapolis Indiana
It does not look so bad, only the front crossmember and suspension mounting points will tell if it is more than cosmetic. I am slightly worried about the wires hanging out of the dash bezel
.....And hope they shut off the engine if the coolant all leaked out after they hit something
Brake calipers may be just painted or they were replaced with Z06 calipers when they added rotors.
.....And hope they shut off the engine if the coolant all leaked out after they hit something
Brake calipers may be just painted or they were replaced with Z06 calipers when they added rotors.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 6
From: Pittsburgh PA
Wow! Great observation on the odo. I totally missed that. Hope no one else here is bidding.
I really need to learn to concentrate on photos. It's like one of those puzzles to see what doesn't fit and I miss sometimes. Thanks.
I really need to learn to concentrate on photos. It's like one of those puzzles to see what doesn't fit and I miss sometimes. Thanks.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 4
From: Freeport, FL
Probably because 115k is low miles for a '99. Hell, the engine is just now broken-in at that mileage 
You would have the same considerations purchasing a 115k mile car as you would a 50k mile car. Check the clutch, brakes, suspension, steering, etc etc etc.... Heck, all those things could be wrong with a 20k mile car, just depends on how it was driven.
You would have the same considerations purchasing a 115k mile car as you would a 50k mile car. Check the clutch, brakes, suspension, steering, etc etc etc.... Heck, all those things could be wrong with a 20k mile car, just depends on how it was driven.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Aiken SC
Love the color!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great that the mileage is only in the 70's but even 115,000 isn't bad. If the price was right, I'd buy it. BTW, an auction car doesn't necessarily mean it's junk. A lot of dealers run a car through auction because of mileage , it's been on the lot for a considerable amount of time, a bad economy (like now) & in this case, apparent body damage that fixing it would offset the selling price. You just have to really inspect the car & don't go in blind. Good luck.
Again, LOVE THE COLOR.....don't know why, just do.
tracer1
Again, LOVE THE COLOR.....don't know why, just do.
tracer1
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 6
From: Pittsburgh PA
Apparently we have similar taste.
I am hoping to get into a Vette for around 10 grand..or less. Of course not counting my labor. This one is exactly what I want if the bidding doesn't go to high. Some of the prices paid for totals (especially Corvettes and Pickups) is stagering. Plus sometimes they are worth more parted out than as a rebuildable. This one doesn't strike me as a parts car. Another factor is that it is a Progressive car and they always place a reserve.
I see those wires. Lots of times the owners have put aftermarket stereos in. When the car gets totaled they rip it out. I had a Grand Prix that I spent more time redoing the factory sound system than fixing the wreck.
I am hoping to get into a Vette for around 10 grand..or less. Of course not counting my labor. This one is exactly what I want if the bidding doesn't go to high. Some of the prices paid for totals (especially Corvettes and Pickups) is stagering. Plus sometimes they are worth more parted out than as a rebuildable. This one doesn't strike me as a parts car. Another factor is that it is a Progressive car and they always place a reserve.
I see those wires. Lots of times the owners have put aftermarket stereos in. When the car gets totaled they rip it out. I had a Grand Prix that I spent more time redoing the factory sound system than fixing the wreck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Aiken SC
Don't see any red flags from the pics but one thing that sticks out is the passenger fender out of alignment even though it was hit on the driver side. To me that's an indication it took a good hit on the driver side as there isn't apparent damage on that side. Trying to figure out why airbags not opened. So I would check underneath really good, even if I had to bring a floor jack to look. Replacing body parts isn't bad. According to the windshield sticker, the mileage is 71,765, assuming that's what ODO stands for. If you know anyone familiar with the C5, I would ask them to look also.
tracer1
tracer1
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Aiken SC
That I don't know. Maybe someone with more knowledge/experience will chime in. According to google though:
To have a frontal (driver or passenger) air bag deploy, certain criteria must be met. One of these criteria is that the frontal impact must be within a 60-degree window, occurring within 30 degrees from the vehicle's centerline. Another key element is that the crash forces are equivalent to a head-on collision with an immovable barrier at 10-15 miles per hour. Because a typical automobile accident only lasts about 0.125 (1/8th) of a second, air bags deploy within 15 to 20ms after the initial crash impact. To create a protective cushion between the occupant and the vehicle's interior, the air bag inflates at speeds up to 200 mph within approximately 30ms after impact. This allows the occupant to contact a fully inflated bag within approximately 45 to 50ms after the initial crash impact. Approximately 100ms after impact the bag deflates.
The entire deployment and deflation cycle takes place in less than one second.
tracer1
To have a frontal (driver or passenger) air bag deploy, certain criteria must be met. One of these criteria is that the frontal impact must be within a 60-degree window, occurring within 30 degrees from the vehicle's centerline. Another key element is that the crash forces are equivalent to a head-on collision with an immovable barrier at 10-15 miles per hour. Because a typical automobile accident only lasts about 0.125 (1/8th) of a second, air bags deploy within 15 to 20ms after the initial crash impact. To create a protective cushion between the occupant and the vehicle's interior, the air bag inflates at speeds up to 200 mph within approximately 30ms after impact. This allows the occupant to contact a fully inflated bag within approximately 45 to 50ms after the initial crash impact. Approximately 100ms after impact the bag deflates.
The entire deployment and deflation cycle takes place in less than one second.
tracer1
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 6
From: Pittsburgh PA
I'm not so sure the drivers bag isn't blown the more I look. Something looks like a bag (they are white) underneath at the bottom of the cover. Sometimes they fold them up and stuff them back in as best possible. Just the drivers wouldn't be a huge deal. When they both go it's a major PITA since usually the whole dash has to be changed and blows the windshield out.
Many criteria for when and how they blow out. And the newer the car the more complex the SRS system. I just did a Jag S Type for my girl friend. The bags in it were OK but the seat belt tensioners deployed. Luckily, there is an outfit the resets the modules and now repairs belt and buckles for a fraction of new.
Yeah I know the frt is swayed to the right. Hopefully bent in frt of the crossmember. I have a frame machine so just more labor. A side sway is usually easier than a direct hit that mashes the rail.
I'm 4 1/2 hours away from this one. Internet dealers only auction. Once you win it, you bought it. So I'll be bidding according to what I see. Thanks for looking and pointing out some things I missed. The mileage thing is pretty big. I'm betting they fix that before the sale.
Many criteria for when and how they blow out. And the newer the car the more complex the SRS system. I just did a Jag S Type for my girl friend. The bags in it were OK but the seat belt tensioners deployed. Luckily, there is an outfit the resets the modules and now repairs belt and buckles for a fraction of new.
Yeah I know the frt is swayed to the right. Hopefully bent in frt of the crossmember. I have a frame machine so just more labor. A side sway is usually easier than a direct hit that mashes the rail.
I'm 4 1/2 hours away from this one. Internet dealers only auction. Once you win it, you bought it. So I'll be bidding according to what I see. Thanks for looking and pointing out some things I missed. The mileage thing is pretty big. I'm betting they fix that before the sale.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 930
Likes: 13
From: Aiken SC
I hope it works out in your favor. Being in the body shop business, I'm sure you know what to look for. If you get it, send some pics after the repairs.
Good luck & let us know how it turns out.
tracer1
Good luck & let us know how it turns out.
tracer1
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,628
Likes: 397
From: Madison Wi
That car has significant frame damage.
Look at the radiator and its relation to the engine. The whole front of the car is shifted over and squished in on the driver side. Check out the air bridge and how it's nowhere near laying over the radiator the way is supposed to because things have shifted around so much.
If it were me, I'd keep looking for one with damage that is more limited to cosmetics.
Look at the radiator and its relation to the engine. The whole front of the car is shifted over and squished in on the driver side. Check out the air bridge and how it's nowhere near laying over the radiator the way is supposed to because things have shifted around so much.
If it were me, I'd keep looking for one with damage that is more limited to cosmetics.
Last edited by TraceZ; Jun 20, 2011 at 05:12 PM.