[Z06] Why 160 degree Thermostat?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2011
Location: Port St Lucie Florida
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why 160 degree Thermostat?
I see them advertised all over the place. The car comes stock with a 190 degree, is there a good reason to replace it with a 160? Is it only something you need for Forced Induction, or does it help prevent a problem? I know there has been issues with the 7 and 8 cyls getting too hot, wondering if this is the easy fix for that?
I am new to vette ownership and looking to prevent as many problems as I can.
Thank you
Kevin
I am new to vette ownership and looking to prevent as many problems as I can.
Thank you
Kevin
#2
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2010
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looking for some answers on this too, I am on the fence about replacing mine...
I see them advertised all over the place. The car comes stock with a 190 degree, is there a good reason to replace it with a 160? Is it only something you need for Forced Induction, or does it help prevent a problem? I know there has been issues with the 7 and 8 cyls getting too hot, wondering if this is the easy fix for that?
I am new to vette ownership and looking to prevent as many problems as I can.
Thank you
Kevin
I am new to vette ownership and looking to prevent as many problems as I can.
Thank you
Kevin
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 10,426
Received 1,260 Likes
on
1,055 Posts
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
i'd stick with the stock thermostat... you can manipulate the fan settings to run the car a little cooler when you have it tuned but running it too cool has negative effects just as running it too hot... running it too cool for long periods of time actually increases engine wear and if it doesn't run warm enough the condensation inside the crankcase will not evaporate... installing a 160 thermostat will only make it run cooler while driving, when the car is idling the temp will go back up to the 220 degree range so it's kind of a waste of money imo
#4
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2010
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How can you make it run a little cooler?
i'd stick with the stock thermostat... you can manipulate the fan settings to run the car a little cooler when you have it tuned but running it too cool has negative effects just as running it too hot... running it too cool for long periods of time actually increases engine wear and if it doesn't run warm enough the condensation inside the crankcase will not evaporate... installing a 160 thermostat will only make it run cooler while driving, when the car is idling the temp will go back up to the 220 degree range so it's kind of a waste of money imo
#5
Safety Car
unless you program the computer for the fans to come on..the 160 won't do anythign at all for you, expect take longer to reach operating temps
About T'stats running low temps:
T'stats limit low temp,
Radiators limit high temp.
The engine establishes a certain temperature equipibrium which has more to do with the radiator than the T'stat.
The T'stat just helps it warm up faster.
T'stats do not establish operating temperature, unless the ambient temp is suffeciently COLD.
T'stats start to open at their rated temp.
They open FULLY 10-20 above that.
Next to belts and hoses, T'stats have a high failure rate.
Most T'stats are cheaply made.
T'stats fail in the "closed" position. (bad bad!)
T'stats also do not close at the same rate they open. (Boil one with a thermometer on the kitchen stove and check it out.)
Water soluble products start to boil off oil at 180 and this is vital. For effeciency the motor should run right at 180-190. Look at a fuel map. This is not just water temp, but oil temp. HOWEVER, if there is GOOD synthetic oil used, and the engine is in good shape, and the oil IS changed frequently, there is little water product from the blow-by, and collecting in the oil to worry about. Thus running a 160 T'stat, which is where the thermostat OPENS at, and is fully open from 10-20 degrees above that, places you closer to an ideal operating temp - but only in warm ambient weather (!!!). In the winter, you may hold temps right down at 160 at worst. And don't forget, you are also battling the large oil cooler. Personally? I run from 160-190. In my cars that do not have a thermostat, they find their "operating equilibrium" usually above 160 anyway. Lastly, I have never seen water damage resulting from a low temp T'stat.
All the above assumes operating equilibrium of the engine / radiator combination is close to the T'stat temp opening area. It is usually higher. Different conditions for stressful conditions, other modifications, engine condition, etc etc. Adjusting fans is a different matter, but just as important.
taken from kelp off the Z06 vette forums
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f64/1...rmostat-98503/
About T'stats running low temps:
T'stats limit low temp,
Radiators limit high temp.
The engine establishes a certain temperature equipibrium which has more to do with the radiator than the T'stat.
The T'stat just helps it warm up faster.
T'stats do not establish operating temperature, unless the ambient temp is suffeciently COLD.
T'stats start to open at their rated temp.
They open FULLY 10-20 above that.
Next to belts and hoses, T'stats have a high failure rate.
Most T'stats are cheaply made.
T'stats fail in the "closed" position. (bad bad!)
T'stats also do not close at the same rate they open. (Boil one with a thermometer on the kitchen stove and check it out.)
Water soluble products start to boil off oil at 180 and this is vital. For effeciency the motor should run right at 180-190. Look at a fuel map. This is not just water temp, but oil temp. HOWEVER, if there is GOOD synthetic oil used, and the engine is in good shape, and the oil IS changed frequently, there is little water product from the blow-by, and collecting in the oil to worry about. Thus running a 160 T'stat, which is where the thermostat OPENS at, and is fully open from 10-20 degrees above that, places you closer to an ideal operating temp - but only in warm ambient weather (!!!). In the winter, you may hold temps right down at 160 at worst. And don't forget, you are also battling the large oil cooler. Personally? I run from 160-190. In my cars that do not have a thermostat, they find their "operating equilibrium" usually above 160 anyway. Lastly, I have never seen water damage resulting from a low temp T'stat.
All the above assumes operating equilibrium of the engine / radiator combination is close to the T'stat temp opening area. It is usually higher. Different conditions for stressful conditions, other modifications, engine condition, etc etc. Adjusting fans is a different matter, but just as important.
taken from kelp off the Z06 vette forums
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f64/1...rmostat-98503/
The following users liked this post:
ArmchairArchitect (11-06-2017)
#6
Le Mans Master
I could never understand a Corvette owner's paranoia about coolant temps creeping into the 220 range when we're chugging along in a construction site, or the occasional spirited burst we all like to do from time to time. I ran a 3 day HPDE last weekend at NJMP and on Friday the ambient temp was high 80s maybe 90. My coolant temp hit 240 and stayed there during a 25 minute session. The car didn't blow up or melt. Now with that in mind, I will ask other Corvette track junkies their opinion as to what temp stat should be used. But unless your seriously tracking your car, makes no sense to me to put a 160 stat in.
#9
Le Mans Master
reason for stock thermostat from factory is EMMISSIONS and nothing less or more, 160 run with mods = MORE horsepower....plain and simple, all the old big block hi-po cars ran 160 a driver should stay stock, modified 160....my 2 cents on subject
The following users liked this post:
GX427 (08-17-2019)
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2011
Location: Port St Lucie Florida
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you everyone. I was pretty much thinking the samething, stay the way GM planned it to be. Even in traffic I have never seen my coolant temp go above like 205 or somewhere in that area. I was not worried about it, as I am sure it can handle that just fine. It just seems strange I keep seeing 160 stats so had to ask if there was a legitimate reason for that. As of right now I have no mods and I plan to keep it that way. Stock car is faster than I need for just street driving, with an occasional spirited launch. In my eyes 0-60 in 4 seconds means at 4.5 seconds I am way over any speed limit in Fla. If I want to go that fast I will just wait till I go back to work, since I fly Learjets.
Car is tons of fun to drive and nice to have finally made it to a childhood dream.
Thank you everyone for confirming my original thoughts.
Car is tons of fun to drive and nice to have finally made it to a childhood dream.
Thank you everyone for confirming my original thoughts.
#11
Safety Car
Search this forum and you will find there are flaws in your facts.
#13
Advanced
Member Since: Aug 2010
Location: Puyallup WA
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1. Don't back up anything you say with facts.
2. Can't spell
Seriously, would you trust a science book that doesn't use proper grammar or spelling? Maybe you would...I don't know...
#14
Le Mans Master
Seems I have read that 160-170 temp. is best for max power.
I had my LT1 C4 changed to a 160 and fans come on earlier when I did my heads/cam/ headers etc. Before it ran around 206-212, and up to 22x when stoped (quickly). After changing, it runs at 180-183 all day in hotest weather. I have only had it get up to 200 plus once, last yr in stop and go traffic for 30 mins. in 100+ F and high humidity, and it took a while to get it there. It does take a few more minutes in winter to warm up, and runs rougher until then, but it is only a few minutes.
I had my LT1 C4 changed to a 160 and fans come on earlier when I did my heads/cam/ headers etc. Before it ran around 206-212, and up to 22x when stoped (quickly). After changing, it runs at 180-183 all day in hotest weather. I have only had it get up to 200 plus once, last yr in stop and go traffic for 30 mins. in 100+ F and high humidity, and it took a while to get it there. It does take a few more minutes in winter to warm up, and runs rougher until then, but it is only a few minutes.
#16
Drifting
#17
Safety Car
#18
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
24 Posts
great when I need a new personal assistant I will take your application.
Besides Scientists spell it "SCEINCE" They cant spell worth a darn
here you go. what REAL temps are when road raced
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...d-atlanta.html
you think a 160 t -stat will help?
Last edited by AU N EGL; 06-22-2011 at 07:35 AM.
#19
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Where Woke Goes to Die
Posts: 8,194
Received 615 Likes
on
431 Posts
A 160 stat is useless unless you have the computer tuned to turn on the fans at a lower temp or else the fans will just wait until the temp gets to where OEM limit is set. On a stock engine, it should be left stock.
If you have modifications or higher compression, that will naturally bring temperatures up. Installing a lower opening temp stat will help as long as the fans are programmed to turn on at lower temps also.
I run a 160 stat. My running temps are around 174-181. In sitting traffic, the fans come on about 205 degrees. The car runs perfectly and gets as high as 29 mpg/hwy I like it that way and there are no ill effects.
If you have modifications or higher compression, that will naturally bring temperatures up. Installing a lower opening temp stat will help as long as the fans are programmed to turn on at lower temps also.
I run a 160 stat. My running temps are around 174-181. In sitting traffic, the fans come on about 205 degrees. The car runs perfectly and gets as high as 29 mpg/hwy I like it that way and there are no ill effects.
#20
Le Mans Master
One thing to remember is that these cars were not built for maximum horsepower, or maximum efficiency or anything. It was a melding of marketing, engineers, lawyers, and workers to try and decide the best way to make everything. Compromises had to be made everywhere. The best example of this in GM is in the C3 vettes when they had to drop to retarded timing, lower compression, and higher operating temps to meet emissions standards back in the mid 70s. I get a big kick out of people that say leave the car the way GM intended and then go on to put aftermarket exhausts, tires, suspension etc.