NGK TR55's and GMPP wires will be great for your '99 - even though you only have 67 k miles, and they're good for 100 k miles, 12 years is a long time for origional ignition parts so I'm sure you'll notice an improvement in performance

 

Here's a step by step for you. I replaced mine with OEM plugs and wires at 75k.

http://www.iammoon.com/c5tech/c5_plugs.htm

 

Let the vehicle sit overnight, start fresh in the morning on a stone cold engine.

Remove the fuel rail covers.

Disconnect the hose to the AIR value and move it out of the way.

Remove the two 10mm bolts attaching the AIR value on the driver's side and rotate it out of the way.

Rotate a plug wire 45° while pulling. Most likely some will just not come off easy or at all. So a good pair of channel locks will work. Be careful don't damage anything besides the wire. Remove the metal insulator from the wire, you will reuse them on the new wires.

Before removing the plugs, if you have compressed air blow out the area around each plug to prevent material going into the cylinder once the plug is removed.

(My method) Remove one plug examine it for characteristics. Set aside and install one new plug. Iridiums you don't gap they are preset. Put aluminum anti-seize on the threads and start it by hand until you are sure it is threading properly. Snug it up and torque to 15Nm or 11 FT LB. Torque is essential.

Repeat 7 more times.

A standard 3/8" ratchet, spark plug socket with insulator and small extension should be all you need. You might need a universal spark plug socket to get to one of the plugs. They are nice to have anyway.

Now apply dielectric grease inside the boots on both ends of the wire, use an applicator like a q-tip works well. Seat the wires ensure you hear a pop as each one seats. Be sure to install the metal insulator before seating the wires.

Start up and test. Re-install the fuel rail covers.

 

I just installed a set of TR55s and Taylor wires over the weekend and can say that the car feels a lot crisper and snappier. What I did find was that the job is a huge pain in the butt and really takes a specific method for each cylinder to get the plugs out. These techniques are not mentioned in any of the how to guides so I figured maybe this might help someone trying to do this job.

The most important thing by far is to make sure you have replacement wires on hand. The reason I say this is because I accidentaly destroyed 3 of the wires during their removal. The first one I was just pulling on the cable because I knew that I had replacements, but even when trying to be careful I still managed to damage 2 more. This would have put me in quite a bind had I not had replacement wires.

The second most important thing I can recommend is finding a 1 inch extension. I found this at my local Ace hardware on sale for $1.50 and I would not have been able to do this job without it. Specifically on plug #7, the 1 inch extension allows you to fit a ratchet between the brake booster and the block.

The best method I found for removing the old wires is by taking a set of needle nose pliers and grabbing onto the heatshield and pulling straight back. If you try to pull on the rubber it often times tears and breaks down.

After having removed the plugs, I felt like everything from that point forward was going to be easy... WRONG! Getting plug #7 was to thread back in was the 2nd hardest thing after trying to remove it's wire. What I found finally ended up working really well was to attach the new plug to the new wire and using the wire to guide it into it's hole and then turning the wire to begin threading it. Once it catches, you can pull the wire off the plug and use a ratchet.

The first time it took me 2.5 hours but I feel like knowing the tricks and the fact that the old parts took so much more force/torque to remove, it could all be done under an hour the second time. Good thing too because those copper plugs need replacing frequently.

 

Plugs and wires are so much easier with the AIR removed. god bless florida.

 

Well other than a few folks for the sunshine state here... oh and the Casey Anthony case was finalized today with the jury verdict of not guilty. That might be it, otherwise, well heck God Bless Florida too, a land of tourist dollars and no income tax, and miles and miles of beach.

 

I thinks he means no emissions testing so that stuff can come off with no penalty?

Anyway, I just popped in a set of Bosch Iridiums in place of my NGK TR55's since I broke a plug when my header banged into it while I was removing it. I also had to put in a set of temp AC Delco wires in place of my Thunder Volt 10.4 mm since one of those broke as well. Doubt if I can discern the difference in normal driving. If all stock plugs and wires are intact and in good shape, they'll serve you well.

 

Yeah but why not put new plugs in while your at it'

 

Exactly. While they are out might as well swap with new ones. 16 bucks for brand new tr55's.

 

Me too...

 

ngk tr6 here, im running boost though

 

'98 stock A4 Vert w/ 58K on clock

NGK 7R55S Plugs and GMPP Red wires

Would plan on wires for sure - changed mine at 42K and stock wires were really hard to remove.

Run NGK's in DD with 100k plus with no problems

 

I use A/C Delco Platinum RapidFire plugs in my 2001...I believe the GM Performance wires are the black one's in red...as far as I've seen they only come in red (some performance)...but they can be quite a bit cheaper than the stock black wires...(go figure)
Bill