2001 Electrical and Starting Problems
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Canton GA
2001 Electrical and Starting Problems
I have two somewhat intermittent issues with my 2001 C5 manual transmission with 154K miles. First on occasion I have three warnings that pop up - Service ABS, Service Traction Control, and Service Active Handling. This problem comes and goes from time to time over the past year. I have checked the two under hood grounds just behind the headlights found no corrosion. I sprayed the connections with electronic cleaner, checked the battery terminals and the ground from the battery to the engine block - no problems at the block either.
Over the past few weeks, the engine has been weak starting - even right after I replaced my battery two weeks ago. Now the engine will barely turn over and if I did not know better, I would think the battery is going dead.
This is a daily driver, I try to remember to put the car in reverse when I leave it parked for anywhere. The battery is a 770 CCA Autocraft Gold and reads fine when I have it tested.
I have read many forums but have not found this exact issue. Any advice?
Thanks
Over the past few weeks, the engine has been weak starting - even right after I replaced my battery two weeks ago. Now the engine will barely turn over and if I did not know better, I would think the battery is going dead.
This is a daily driver, I try to remember to put the car in reverse when I leave it parked for anywhere. The battery is a 770 CCA Autocraft Gold and reads fine when I have it tested.
I have read many forums but have not found this exact issue. Any advice?
Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
If your battery load tested good and is fully charged, then you need to look at the starter solenoid connection where the battery, alternator and fuse boxes all come together. Do not forget that its electrically hot down there. Pull your codes from the DIC and post them.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
Pull your codes and post them... too many possibilities without them.
Your ebcm might be toast or it could be as simple as a ground for the warnings.
The other issue could be battery related, ignition switch, bad starter or starter solenoid etc...
Courtesy of Bill Curlee:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
Your ebcm might be toast or it could be as simple as a ground for the warnings.
The other issue could be battery related, ignition switch, bad starter or starter solenoid etc...
Courtesy of Bill Curlee:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
Last edited by cdkcorvette7; Jul 8, 2011 at 06:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Canton GA
Couple of days to Post as I left the interior lights on and the new battery was totally dead. I am not sure how long the interior lights were left on. Recharged and read the codes today.
28TCS - C1214H
40 BCM - B2592H
A0 LDCM - B2264H
A6 SCM - B0851H and B2606H
B0 RFA U1255H
Since all are History Codes, and the slow starting may have been due to leaving the interior lights on. If someone could point me to how to read the codes, or provide me with other suggestions on how to check out the intermittent Traction Control, etc. lights.
Thanks
Mike
28TCS - C1214H
40 BCM - B2592H
A0 LDCM - B2264H
A6 SCM - B0851H and B2606H
B0 RFA U1255H
Since all are History Codes, and the slow starting may have been due to leaving the interior lights on. If someone could point me to how to read the codes, or provide me with other suggestions on how to check out the intermittent Traction Control, etc. lights.
Thanks
Mike
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
You should clear those and see which ones come back... Use the two links toward the bottom of my post above to translate the codes. Clear the codes by manually cycling through each module and hold down the reset button to clear all the codes in that module.
The 1214 code is the cause of your DIC warning messages. Clear the codes and see if that on comes back. If it does you ebcm is probably shot and needs to be repaired. Note: while that dtc is set you do NOT have abs or traction control, so keep that in mind while driving...
The 1214 code is the cause of your DIC warning messages. Clear the codes and see if that on comes back. If it does you ebcm is probably shot and needs to be repaired. Note: while that dtc is set you do NOT have abs or traction control, so keep that in mind while driving...
Last edited by cdkcorvette7; Jul 8, 2011 at 06:17 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open
B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault
B0851 Battery 1 Out of Range
B2606 Seat Rear Vertical Position Sensor Failure
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
B2592 Column Lock/Unlock Drive (B)
B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault
B0851 Battery 1 Out of Range
B2606 Seat Rear Vertical Position Sensor Failure
U1255 Serial Data Line Malfunction
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Canton GA
Cleared all codes this morning, but two were problematic and would not clear.
28 TCS C1214 this one cleared but immediately came back - like before I could go to the next code. Does this mean the EBCM is fried or is there another possible solution I should check before sending to a re-builder?
A0 LDCM B2264 - Mirror Position Sensor this one will not clear, but I know there is a problem with the motor in the drivers side mirror. I need to purchase and replace the motor in the mirror. Moves up and down but not right to left. Fairly simple fix to replace the motor - provided i don't break the mirror taking it out.
Advice appreciated.
Mike
28 TCS C1214 this one cleared but immediately came back - like before I could go to the next code. Does this mean the EBCM is fried or is there another possible solution I should check before sending to a re-builder?
A0 LDCM B2264 - Mirror Position Sensor this one will not clear, but I know there is a problem with the motor in the drivers side mirror. I need to purchase and replace the motor in the mirror. Moves up and down but not right to left. Fairly simple fix to replace the motor - provided i don't break the mirror taking it out.
Advice appreciated.
Mike
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I have the 1214 code and will be sending the EBCM to get repaired at ABSFixer. In the mean time you can drive the car with no issues other than not having ABS or Traction Control. I don't drive very aggressively so I am in no hurry to get the repair done. But the little pictures on the dash kind of aggravate me.
If you do a search on the 1214 code you will find hundreds of posts about what to do and even how to fix the controller yourself.
Sure sounds like your battery is weak. Plus aren't the lights supposed to go off by themselves after a certain amount of time (15 minutes I think)?
If you do a search on the 1214 code you will find hundreds of posts about what to do and even how to fix the controller yourself.
Sure sounds like your battery is weak. Plus aren't the lights supposed to go off by themselves after a certain amount of time (15 minutes I think)?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
I have the 1214 code and will be sending the EBCM to get repaired at ABSFixer. In the mean time you can drive the car with no issues other than not having ABS or Traction Control. I don't drive very aggressively so I am in no hurry to get the repair done. But the little pictures on the dash kind of aggravate me.
If you do a search on the 1214 code you will find hundreds of posts about what to do and even how to fix the controller yourself.
Sure sounds like your battery is weak. Plus aren't the lights supposed to go off by themselves after a certain amount of time (15 minutes I think)?
If you do a search on the 1214 code you will find hundreds of posts about what to do and even how to fix the controller yourself.
Sure sounds like your battery is weak. Plus aren't the lights supposed to go off by themselves after a certain amount of time (15 minutes I think)?
absfixer.com
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Canton GA
I removed the ABS Module and used a local company in the Atlanta area. $75 later and 30 minutes at best to install and No Codes for the past three days.
The battery / starting issue appears to be a faulty starter. I plan on pulling the starter this weekend and having it rebuilt. Not to much of a pain to remove the front exhaust pipes to gain access to the starter.
Thanks to all for the advice.
The battery / starting issue appears to be a faulty starter. I plan on pulling the starter this weekend and having it rebuilt. Not to much of a pain to remove the front exhaust pipes to gain access to the starter.
Thanks to all for the advice.
