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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 04:30 PM
  #1  
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Default surging brakes

above 60mph, i recently experienced brakes surging and of course more so the harder you push on the brake pedal on my c5. brake pads have 1/2" left on each one. everything looks ok. wondering if the anti lock brake mechanism might be at fault. any advice here is apreciated












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Last edited by showlow; Jul 19, 2011 at 04:31 PM. Reason: added a couple words
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 06:50 PM
  #2  
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Have your rotors checked to see if they are warped.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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What is "surging?" Do you mean your brake pedal is pulsating? If so, then your rotors are warped.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 11:32 PM
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Warped rotors. It almost always happens when the pads are replaced without replacing the rotors at the same time.

OBD
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 12:39 AM
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I would try doing a few hard stops from 60 to 5 mph or so to break in the pads again. Another thing you can try is to scuff the friction surface with steel wool or something similar and then going thru a break in procedure again. From what I understand it is very common for friction material to build up unevenly on the rotors, my friend was actually going to replace his rotors because he thought that they were warped but I had him scuff them up and the surging stopped.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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Are you getting any code messages on the DIC ? If pulsing is the ABS you will get a failure code relating to a bad sensor or whatever the problem is. If no codes, then it has to be a mechanical problem. Check rotors for runout with a dial indicator. Anything more than .004 inch is out of spec and can cause a problem with vibration. Be sure to check both front and rear friction surfaces of each rotor. One side can be fine and the other out of spec. If bad, just replace rotors rather than turning, they are cheap for a Vette.
If rotor runout is OK, then it is probably a build up of pad material on the rotor. Remove caliper and check sliders for proper movement - relube as necessary. Take some 1600 grit sand paper or emery paper and break the glaze on the front and rear friction surface of each rotor. Sand hard enough to break up the shiny surface finish. Do the same for the contact surface of each pad. Reassemble and you should be good to go without pulsation.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 10:53 AM
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good advice here. thanx. my runout on the discs are .007 on the passenger side. haven't checked the drivers side yet. going to go get the rotors turned and buy new pads--advice here--ceramic or metallic ? still have pretty good meat on old pads.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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I read an article stated that most pulsating brakes are NOT from warped rotors but from gunk on the rotors.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by showlow
good advice here. thanx. my runout on the discs are .007 on the passenger side. haven't checked the drivers side yet. going to go get the rotors turned and buy new pads--advice here--ceramic or metallic ? still have pretty good meat on old pads.
Before you go to get them turned try and scuff them up and/or do some hard stops but do not stop completely.
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 02:25 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
I would try doing a few hard stops from 60 to 5 mph or so to break in the pads again. Another thing you can try is to scuff the friction surface with steel wool or something similar and then going thru a break in procedure again. From what I understand it is very common for friction material to build up unevenly on the rotors, my friend was actually going to replace his rotors because he thought that they were warped but I had him scuff them up and the surging stopped.
Steel wool won't clean crap off of rotors. Use 120 wet/dry sand paper or a rotor hone is better yet. I know brake-tech sells them . Have one in my tool box.
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 02:27 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by CHJ In Virginia
Are you getting any code messages on the DIC ? If pulsing is the ABS you will get a failure code relating to a bad sensor or whatever the problem is. If no codes, then it has to be a mechanical problem. Check rotors for runout with a dial indicator. Anything more than .004 inch is out of spec and can cause a problem with vibration. Be sure to check both front and rear friction surfaces of each rotor. One side can be fine and the other out of spec. If bad, just replace rotors rather than turning, they are cheap for a Vette.
If rotor runout is OK, then it is probably a build up of pad material on the rotor. Remove caliper and check sliders for proper movement - relube as necessary. Take some 1600 grit sand paper or emery paper and break the glaze on the front and rear friction surface of each rotor. Sand hard enough to break up the shiny surface finish. Do the same for the contact surface of each pad. Reassemble and you should be good to go without pulsation.
Nope sorry,1600 and/or emery won't do crap.Just call brake-tech and get a rotor hone....
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 02:30 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by CHJ In Virginia
Are you getting any code messages on the DIC ? If pulsing is the ABS you will get a failure code relating to a bad sensor or whatever the problem is. If no codes, then it has to be a mechanical problem. Check rotors for runout with a dial indicator. Anything more than .004 inch is out of spec and can cause a problem with vibration. Be sure to check both front and rear friction surfaces of each rotor. One side can be fine and the other out of spec. If bad, just replace rotors rather than turning, they are cheap for a Vette.
If rotor runout is OK, then it is probably a build up of pad material on the rotor. Remove caliper and check sliders for proper movement - relube as necessary. Take some 1600 grit sand paper or emery paper and break the glaze on the front and rear friction surface of each rotor. Sand hard enough to break up the shiny surface finish. Do the same for the contact surface of each pad. Reassemble and you should be good to go without pulsation.
Thats good advice

Originally Posted by dougbfresh
I read an article stated that most pulsating brakes are NOT from warped rotors but from gunk on the rotors.
Also true, very often build up of pad material from a panic stop and hold (acts like a stamp pad and deposits more when you hold it there). Many people assume they are warped, have em turned (removing the uneven deposits) and think "see, they were warped". Not too common.
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Mine were warped, had them turned ON the car, now they are great! Cost me $80.. Well worth it!
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