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so i recently acquired a 2002 zo6 with 80k miles. its still on a stock clutch. i do want to do a eps custom grind cam in it within a month or two. how long will the stock clutch hold up if im not doing any dig runs but will drive spiritedly once in a while. imo i think it should last awhile but not sure. clutch is in great condition right now.
Borrowed time my friend. I'm still milking my stocker after my cam install, but I've felt a little slip already. My car had 26k on it when I installed the cam. I've gone about 1500 miles of daily driving with a few romps here and there. I really want to take it to the track, but dont feel like doing a clutch job in the middle of the summer in florida(been there, done that)
so i recently acquired a 2002 zo6 with 80k miles. its still on a stock clutch. i do want to do a eps custom grind cam in it within a month or two. how long will the stock clutch hold up if im not doing any dig runs but will drive spiritedly once in a while. imo i think it should last awhile but not sure. clutch is in great condition right now.
I recently did a CAM on my Z and the stock clutch held for about 1,000 miles, but the tuning required a lot of WOT pulls and spirited driving and the life of the clutch just shortened quickly. I also kept the fluids flushed well. I could have gotten more miles out of it, but it was starting to slip and decided not to wait until it was completely shot to replace, so I dropped a LS7 setup in it and a new MC cylinder.
I did NOT run anything but street tires on my car during this time.
on a tight budget, what clutch would you guys recommend?
i just put a new transmission in the vette, wish i would've waited longer to put a clutch in.
any easy way of doing this?
can i replace my master cylinder without having to bleed the system
on a tight budget, what clutch would you guys recommend?
i just put a new transmission in the vette, wish i would've waited longer to put a clutch in.
any easy way of doing this?
can i replace my master cylinder without having to bleed the system
I bought the LS7 setup for a fair price. Nice clutch, will hold a HEADS/CAM setup no problem and feels stock.
Price...contact Mike Yeater at EAST COAST PERFORMANCE.
A clutch install...not easy, but can be done with the right tools. As can any job. I had access to a lift, so I was in good shape. Folks have done this install on jack stands, but I could not imagine doing it that way.
As for the master cylinder being replaced without bleeding the system...I suppose so.
If you do decide to do a clutch...get the bleeder. Keep those fluids fresh as possible.
I bought the LS7 setup for a fair price. Nice clutch, will hold a HEADS/CAM setup no problem and feels stock.
Price...contact Mike Yeater at EAST COAST PERFORMANCE.
A clutch install...not easy, but can be done with the right tools. As can any job. I had access to a lift, so I was in good shape. Folks have done this install on jack stands, but I could not imagine doing it that way.
As for the master cylinder being replaced without bleeding the system...I suppose so.
If you do decide to do a clutch...get the bleeder. Keep those fluids fresh as possible.
On the street. Not knocking the LS7 by no means but ive heard it some times has a problem handling the stock power of the c6ZO6. A H/C setup will put you in the range of our bigger brother so to the OP id be looking and researching carefully about the clutch. As in what are your goals with the car. Daily driver? etc.....
how much power did you put down to the RW's? I already have the LS7 system, did that in mind thinking that I would go with a cam somewhere down the line.
I thought that for a daily driver, the LS7 was the best you could get for your money.
As for install, you can do it on jackstands in your garage, it's not that difficult. You'll need 4 jackstands and 2 jacks, though. You will also need a buddy for help so it'll be safer/easier when you drop the rear cradle.
If you do it yourself, do not reuse the old flywheel/pressure plate bolts, go with ARP. Make sure you have a good torque wrench as well.
If you want a step by step, spend the $150 for the shop manual. It's the best $150 you can spend for your car, IMHO.
Heh. I'm still nursing my stock clutch with a cam-only 425/400 set-up. I'm just getting a hint of slip if I REALLY rip it. My lack of traction is definitely keeping the clutch alive. First time it really hooks, my clutch will be sayonara...
how much power did you put down to the RW's? I already have the LS7 system, did that in mind thinking that I would go with a cam somewhere down the line.
I thought that for a daily driver, the LS7 was the best you could get for your money.
As for install, you can do it on jackstands in your garage, it's not that difficult. You'll need 4 jackstands and 2 jacks, though. You will also need a buddy for help so it'll be safer/easier when you drop the rear cradle.
If you do it yourself, do not reuse the old flywheel/pressure plate bolts, go with ARP. Make sure you have a good torque wrench as well.
If you want a step by step, spend the $150 for the shop manual. It's the best $150 you can spend for your car, IMHO.
Echo...its not as bad as it seems. I honestly had a tougher time with my gto because lining up the trans sucks.
I really like the Monster Level 2. Its good for 525-550 rwhp. Doing the clutch at home is not too bad if you have compressed air. I wouldnt want to do it without my air tools though.
Good Luck
how much power did you put down to the RW's? I already have the LS7 system, did that in mind thinking that I would go with a cam somewhere down the line.
I thought that for a daily driver, the LS7 was the best you could get for your money.
As for install, you can do it on jackstands in your garage, it's not that difficult. You'll need 4 jackstands and 2 jacks, though. You will also need a buddy for help so it'll be safer/easier when you drop the rear cradle.
If you do it yourself, do not reuse the old flywheel/pressure plate bolts, go with ARP. Make sure you have a good torque wrench as well.
If you want a step by step, spend the $150 for the shop manual. It's the best $150 you can spend for your car, IMHO.
I am putting almost 420 wheels now.
I agree with what others are saying about the LS7 setup. I am not making any money selling it, but with a mild set up HEADS/CAM and street use, the LS7 was the setup for me. I like the stock clutch feel.
I personally would NOT do it on jack stands, but no folks that have and those guys are just more patient with it than I am.
I also echo...DO NOT REUSE old bolts! I didn't do ARP, but I did purchase no BOLTS. I knew I would not be swapping this out anytime soon and if I did I would buy new bolts.
I also know that if I do HEADS, it will be down the road a ways and may get froggy and do a new CLUTCH, but I am very happy with my current setup and it is priced very fairly.
Heh. I'm still nursing my stock clutch with a cam-only 425/400 set-up. I'm just getting a hint of slip if I REALLY rip it. My lack of traction is definitely keeping the clutch alive. First time it really hooks, my clutch will be sayonara...
Same with mine, before I went to the LS7, just wanted to get it swapped out before it went completely.
If your clutch is in good condition it will probably survive your cam only & tuning. Your clutch decision should really be based on where you are planning to go mod wise including traction, gearing & rpm.
I'm on clutch #3, my car has less than 11 K miles. Clutch #2 was the LS7, 4:10's & a motor that would easily rev & maintain power @ 7K rpm.
My suggestion is do your cam & tune. Re search your clutch & do it once & right
I two am on borred time with my stock clutch.. 42k miles on the original clutch, making 422/372 since 35k miles. I probly have 20+ passes on street tires at the track.. So far so good..
It isn't slippage that's the problem,(usually) it's the ability for the clutch plate to disengage from the FW. The usual theory is that the fingers on the PP overextend, causing the clutch disc to stick to the FW. This causes the infamous "pedal stuck to the floor" syndrome. Mine gave up @ 450 RWHP while attempting a second dyno pull. Before my new clutch I would get one high RPM shift, and that's all. Any attempts to shift were not allowed until the clutch cooled. You could pry the pedal off the floor with your foot, but forget racing. No problems now, with 150 more RWHP, and my DD RPS/Tick combo. No problems, that is, not counting a very touchy engagement point. You get used to it. BTW, I did my own clutch replacement, with my former son in law's help, and a 2 post lift, and it was a total beeotch. I never want to do that again.
Last edited by zeevette; Jul 22, 2011 at 06:34 PM.
Tick Performance is having a sale on Monster's for $150 for those that are interested, if you have any questions about a clutch feel free to contact me.