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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 09:21 AM
  #21  
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Here are mine.













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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 11:52 AM
  #22  
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Kwiklift works well, I've seen them used for about $500.00

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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 10:48 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by VET IT B












nice
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
nice
Real nice Mike. How much do they weigh??
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:11 PM
  #25  
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i made mikes ramps also and they work great...i put handles on them and can carry both at the same time as far as weight goes... mikes plan says to use 5/8" plywood. http://www.tim-yvonne.com/mikemercury/ thanks again mike!!!

Last edited by hdff; Oct 10, 2011 at 02:13 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hdff
i made mikes ramps also and they work great...i put handles on them and can carry both at the same time as far as weight goes... mikes plan says to use 5/8" plywood. http://www.tim-yvonne.com/mikemercury/ thanks again mike!!!
Someone told me you are the size of Hulk Hogan when he was in shape.

I wonder if there are areas that can allow 'lightening'? Like maybe the ramp surface in 3/4 plywood? Or is the center rib really needed?
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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Rhino's (lightweight and portable), a low profile jack, and a good set of jack stands and you're in business. Not much I haven't been able to do using this set up. You can even build youself a set of jacking pads using 99 cent hockey pucks (glue two together per side) and and eye hook to lock them into the jacking slots in the frame. I try to always use the 'keep it simple' principle. Zuti
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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hers mine 795mm to bottom of tires about 32" I can site under it easy


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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Zuti
Rhino's (lightweight and portable), a low profile jack, and a good set of jack stands and you're in business. Not much I haven't been able to do using this set up. You can even build youself a set of jacking pads using 99 cent hockey pucks (glue two together per side) and and eye hook to lock them into the jacking slots in the frame. I try to always use the 'keep it simple' principle. Zuti
Nice, but I'm uneasy about the jacking up the rear end deal.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:31 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by chasboy
Nice, but I'm uneasy about the jacking up the rear end deal.
Really, there's nothing to it. I just put a 1X6 on the low profile jack pad, put it squarely under the cross member, jack it up and place the stands. Piece of cake. Zuti
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:43 PM
  #31  
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Built my own. Found the plans here on the forum





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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Zuti
Really, there's nothing to it. I just put a 1X6 on the low profile jack pad, put it squarely under the cross member, jack it up and place the stands. Piece of cake. Zuti
I saw some references somewhere that said jacking at the crossmember was not a great idea?
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 09:28 PM
  #33  
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Race Ramps. Light weight and easy to put away.?
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:30 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by chasboy
I saw some references somewhere that said jacking at the crossmember was not a great idea?
Been doing it for 8 years without a problem, but you gotta do what makes you comfortable. Zuti
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:51 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by csc67
Rhino Ramps work for me
Just ordered some online. $39.99! Can't beat that with a stick!
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 11:56 PM
  #36  
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Minimum is a 4 post hoist.

Last edited by duramaxsky; Oct 10, 2011 at 11:59 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by sbadd99
hers mine 795mm to bottom of tires about 32" I can site under it easy
Very nice
What are the deck's made from? (looks almost like aluminum tubing) Interested in how you made them, any pic's of the underside?
Thanks
Mooser
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 01:40 AM
  #38  
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I think it's going to be tough working on your car without a garage, IMHO. My suggestion would be a set of "Mike Mercury" ramps for the front, a pair of stacked 2"X12" (2) to raise the rear. A low-profile jack from Harbor Freight with a 2"X6" for the cross member and a pair of jack stands to support the rear at the level of the ramps for oil changes. All of this will cost you about $100 less than race ramps and may be a little easier to hang onto.

Good luck,

Okie
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 04:59 AM
  #39  
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Race ramps worked pretty good... I jacked up the rear of the car to level it and was able to change my oil, but it was still tight underneath the car. I really would have liked another 6" or space. I like the kwiklift idea personally.
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by GoldenFlame
Rhino Ramps work fine as well.. I'm lowered max on stock bolts and I can still use them fine, you'll hit the rubber air dam sides, but that's it.. I do plan on either making some new ramps or purchasing some race ramps later on though..
Rhino ramps are ok if you are driving forward; however, if you are trying to raise the rear end and trying to drive backwards to lift the rear - I would not recommend Rhino ramps - even though they have thick rubber pegs under the ramps - the ramps still move a little - mine on the other hand - moved a lot and this is the result of my ignorance and stupidity -never again would I back up on rhino ramps with a poweful vehicle. Here is the end result --BTW this is on both sides.

story is - was backing up slowly and instead of the rhino ramps staying in place -they moved towards the car ending up under the rocker panels cracking the freaking body part right where the Z06 ducts are located.
Invest good money to get good ramps - instead of buying Walmart Rhino Ramps - they are good though for FWD car
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