When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok Im really stumped on what this problem is. My car is a 2001 m6. A few months ago I purchased a c6 shifter with new box and had it installed at the shop. Here we are a couple months later and now I have alot of trouble getting it into first gear. I recently posted a thread about this and most of you suggested the shifter needed to be re aligned which made sense cause if it was in neutral and you moved it over to the left and up to put it into first it would go into third instead.
In order to get it into first you really have to pull to the left with some force then up to get it into first. No other gears had any problems. So a few days ago I drop the car off to my installer to see if we can adjust the shifter or maybe something came loose and nothing. He started to suggest first gear synchro is shot but im having trouble believing that cause there is no grinding at all.
So upon further inspection he noticed that the shift rod clamp bolt was shot and that the brass piece that is at the end of that shaft was split and starting to come apart so 450 dollar piece ordered and now my problems are way worse and I cant believe my car is like this now.
Here is 2 videos in an attempt to describe what is going on and im hoping somebody can assist me on what to do now. First is even harder to get into now and second too. Third and fourth dont feel like they should and forget easy getting into fifth and sixth the video shows how far off they are and reverse is now hard too. I stumped.
Ideas?........
Last edited by rootpooty; Oct 28, 2011 at 08:22 PM.
Reason: fix video link
have you done an internet search? This is what I found. Their described problems were very similar to yours and this was the procedure for fixing it. I have no idea if this works or even where the L shaped pin and 3 torx screws are located. Hope this helps though.
The L shaped pin is for the actual adjustment to be perfect.
You place the car in neutral.
Loosen the 3 fasteners.
Push the PIN ALL THE WAY DOWN>
Torque all 3 fasteners, the clamp first.
Pull the pin back up and verify shifter operation
ive done a search but most of the answers i found were adjusting using the pin like mentioned and i assume my installer did this. i myself have not done it personally just looking to see how this can be done
The torque value for those torex screws (bolts) is 33Nm.
You'll need to set it, torque it, then go for a test ride, if not right repeat until you get it right then re-assemble all the parts.
Because it is an exact replacement, I'd pretty much guarantee whomever did the swap out did not mark the position of the old housing before removing it, else you would just drop in the new shifter and align it to the marks and torque it. Tighten the connecting rod screw first, then the two on the housing.
Now you are faced with making small adjustments, torque, test, and repeat until you get it back in the right position.
Be sure to set the neutral lock before loosening or removing the shifter. That means position it to neutral and push down on the lock pin.
If you decided to do this yourself, you'll need to remove the console and bezel. Do you have the instructions to remove and install those parts?
Last edited by Jet-Jock; Oct 29, 2011 at 08:23 AM.
Adjust it yourself and you'll know it's right. Also check the movement of the shifter box itself. The rubber bushings DO wear out and allow the box to get sloppy. There is also a rubber piece on the bottom that ties the shifter box to the torque tube. Make sure all the rubber parts are in good shape. I actually shimmed the bottom rubber to tighten up the fit.