Grimlock

I am thinking I am going to need to replace my clutch pretty soon. I keep doing the Ranger method and the fluid is turning black in about 5 minutes of driving even after doing this 20 times. Not to mention if I do a hard shift or two, the clutch is sticking. Even after changing the fluid the clutch is somewhat sticky even before driving the car. And the car has just over 45K miles, but I just got it a few months ago. I suspect the prior owners did something to abuse the clutch!

So I am looking at the Monster 2, but I want to get an idea on how much an installation will cost.

michaelfrench

alot of $$$ you are really having some bad luck with it. try doing it yourself. not that hard. while your in there get a tick master cylinder and a new gm slave

Grimlock

Can I get a more accurate price estimate? I am disabled, so I can't do it myself.

Omaha02Z06

From what I’ve seen and heard $500-700 depending on the shop with a dealer being higher. Tick Shift has a package deal with the Monster clutches you may want to check out if you haven't already. Are you going to stick with the stock flywheel or an 18lb one?

Grimlock

Is the 18 lb lighter than stock? And how much does it cost?

Omaha02Z06

Yes it is lighter. Stock is either around 24 or 28lbs IIRC. With that Tick deal you can get the 18lb for $50 more. I need to have a clutch installed in my car this winter so I’ve been shopping around some.

Grimlock

So with the 18lb you gain a little power, but it is a bit more challenging to launch/easier to stall? If it is a solid performance enhancer and only costs $50, then I might go for it. And yes, I was looking at those package deals a few weeks ago. They also have a deal with a remote bleeder, right? I doubt I need that unless folks seem to think it is super important. Clutches usually last a long time for me....at least on my prior cars! I have no idea how the clutch can be this screwed up in 45K miles! The prior owner must have been brutal to it. He was an older guy who didn't seem to be into performance, so I have no idea how/why this is happening.

sothpaw2

Before you part with the big $$$, try using some really good brake fluid in there for 20 flushes. I use Castrol SRF ($75/litre). I have been able to limp my car along for years now with it even though with the dot3 the clutch starts sticking. Worth a try.

Edmond

$700 is the neigbhorhood that I got quoted a couple years ago before a forum member and I did it ourselves.

All new hydraulics are a must as well as a remote bleeder, IMO. It would also be a good time for a tunnel plate and headers if those are not done already. Also be a good idea to do O2 sensors if they're anywhere close to needing it.

And since the shifter will be off, wouldn't be a bad idea to change the shifter to a C6 unit or aftermarket unit from the crappy C5 unit.

Black Cloud

I'm getting that clutch smell ever since I let my son drive it.Would this be worth a shot?

marvinseah

I'd suggest going with the LS7 clutch with L/W flywheel. I recently had my monster stage 3 with L/W flywheel changed out due to chatter and noise. It just made the car less enjoyable to drive.

Omaha02Z06

Which flywheel did you go with?

Grimlock

From what I've read, that is an issue with the Stage 3, but not the stage 2....correct me if I am wrong. What cost am I looking at for the LS7 parts?

Grimlock

I've been doing that and I am at probably 15 flushes. I am doing the Ranger protocol almost every time I drive the car, and I am still having issues. The car did a 180 on the autox course a couple of months ago when on a hard shift when the clutch locked up at about 10% travel. Yesterday on the freeway the clutch stuck about half way up after a hard 2-3 or 3-4 shift. I really don't want to replicate what happened on the autocross course on the streets!

I suppose I can keep "doing the Ranger" for another few weeks and see what happens. But it doesn't seem to be getting better at all.

marvinseah

I was using their 18 lb. f/w so I'm not sure if that caused the chatter to be more pronounced. LS7 clutch kits with aluminum f/w sells for about $580 shipped I believe.

bumble-z

Grimlock,
Find out from members (here on the forum) in your imediate area, where they take their C/5's for clutch work, etc. WARNING...Do not take it to the dealership for this work.

Have that shop install a Tic clutch master cylinder & while in the shop have them do a complete bleed of your clutch hydraulics at the bleeder
nipple on the top of the bell housing, to include the new Tic m/c.
The Tic m/c will be over around $275. & the labor to do the install & the bleed will be around $150. labor. Of course labor could be a little lower or higher, (this is just an estimate of part & labor.)

If your still having trouble after having this done, start looking to replace the clutch, p/plate, flywheel, pilot bearing & slave cylinder.
Good luck.

JETninja

Sounds like maybe just a new Slave would help, your seals are so shot. Add a speed bleeder at the same time.

Black Cloud

The noise or chattering is no factor.I just need the best clutch I can get.

0Joey@Tick

Upgrading the clutch the *right* way can be an expensive thing, but buying high quality parts the first go-round will save you money down the road when you're not doing the job 2-3 times to get it right. I've seen it happen a million times!

My suggestion: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...-corvette-z06/

Our Tick & Monster Complete Clutch Swap Package comes with EVERYTHING you should replace/upgrade while doing a clutch, including our Adjustable Master Cylinder Kit and Remote SPEEDbleeder Line. You can choose your Level of clutch and flywheel weight there on the page.

Labor to install that setup here in house would be $560, or 7 hours (5 for the clutch itself, 2 for our master.)

FWIW, the Monster Levels 1 and 2 are guaranteed not to chatter after proper break-in. The Levels 3 and up will chatter a bit, as any single disc clutch rated to hold 700+ rear wheek horsepower will. The Monster Levels 1 and 2 are both SOLID upgrades over the LS6/LS7 clutches.

Nofreee

Be sure to get the Tick adjustable master cylinder while you are doing it. I tried the ranger method countless times and I could never get the fluid clean. High RPM pulls would wreak havoc on my pedal response and feel.

Once I upgraded to the Tick unit, I have ZERO clutch issues. It doesn't stick to the floor, go soft or lose feel.

Unless you plan on making a significant amount of power, just stick with the stock clutch assembly. If you go too aggressive with your clutch, it will make driving a pain. I recently had to switch back to a stock setup because of a flywheel that was not balanced properly in an aftermarket kit. While the feel of the clutch was not what made me swap it out (vibration from not being balanced did), I realized how much easier and enjoyable the stock clutch is.