I will often downshift from 6 down through the gears to 3rd, but by the time the car slows to idle rpm in 3rd it is about time to stop anyway. So I seldom downshift all the way to 1st or 2nd unless it is time to accellerate again.

I am curious if leaving it in neutral at a stop sign really saves the throw out bearing or not. It seems quieter with the clutch in at a stop light. I read on the forum somewhere that the slight mechanical noise I hear in neutral with the clutch out is the throw out bearing "rattling around". That didn't sound good to me .... but I am very new at all this Corvette stuff. Lots yet to learn about these amazing cars.

 

I do what your buddy does.

I can easily change my brakes in an afternoon. I have to pay BIG $$ to change my clutch or tranny syncro's. Been there and done that.

I choose to coast to most stop lights in neutral, and leave it in neutral till the light changes. Saves on gas too... not that I really care about gas mileage on this car though.

Toque

 

 

I see your avitar is still in tact... unlike many others

Toque

 

I always down shift to stop, my whole life.

 

UHHHHH Down shifting puts more strain on your clutch thus wearing your clutch down a **** load more... I only down shift to slow down quicker if I really have too which is very rare and remember Rev Matching is your friend... YOUR BUDDY IS CORRECT!!!!

 

I've ridden with some guys that down shift early and use engine braking to slow the car, no rev matching, just clutch in an yank on the stick. It's really painful to watch.

I'll double clutch and rev match if I'm getting ready to do something illegal. I've played around with heel and toe, but i need more practice, not something you need driving on the street. I'd love to take my car to a track day and play around, but I worry about the other yahoos on the track that have something to prove, taking me out.

 

Unfortunately you are incorrect on two fronts. First Greg probably knows more about H/T downshifting than anyone else who has posted in this thread, and no disrespect, but it sounds like you may not fully undertand the concept.

A properly executed, rev-matched H/T downshift is done to maintain the balance of the car under heavy braking while preparing for turn-in at corner entry and if the rev-match is done correctly there should be no "resistance at the rear wheels" to upset the balance of the car, and it also minimizes wear and tear on the trans.

If 100% of the available traction is being used to slow the car under "heavy braking" then the addition of any additional "braking" from the transmission will unsettle the car at the least or at worst cause a loss of rear wheel traction which could result in a blowing the corner or even spinning.

At completetion of a correct H/T downshift the car should be ready to turn-in and in the correct gear to accelerate out of the corner. That is the whole point of Heel and Toe. If you're slowing the car with H/T then you aren't doing it correctly.

 

Using the engine to slow the car down is the wrong move, thats what the brakes are for. Brake pads are cheaper and easier to change than the clutch or related internal parts if you overrev on a down shift. Its also much easier to control the car with the brakes when trying to slow the car, than trying to slow the car using heel toe. One of the first things that you're taught in a hpde/racing school is to not use the engine to slow a car down because of the control factor. I've been doing this for a little over 8 yrs, and while I'm certaintly no expert, I've always corrected a student about the proper use of heel/toe, which the post above by JimbeauZO6 describes perfectly.

 

When that red light is approaching, if I am in say 5th gear, I will slam it into 2nd just to squeal the wheels and hear the motor make that cool popping sound. Then at about 30 will force it into 1st so really get the squeal action/popcorn again. Then, while still coasting, I will hold the clutch down and rev the motor real loud, like to 6,000 rpm, and dump the clutch while I am approaching the red light. That gets the attention of the ladies for sure. This is the proper red light approach. When the light turns green, rev to 7,200 --no more than this or could be harmful to motor--and of course dump clutch. The car seems to really like being driven this way, and of course the ladies love it.

 

+1 for everything said above!

I shift into neutral on the road course while in the braking zone and blip the throttle before shifting then accelerate through the turn.

You can actually slow faster while briefly in neutral vs. remaining in gear.

 

This is absolutely correct. As a former Formula Ford/Formula Super Vee driver, I can say that using the transmission to help braking is self defeating. Consider:

1. The brake bias is specifically set up to maximize braking potential at the limit (of tire adhesion) and with the suspension "set" (which means the suspension has settled to where it would be under maximum downforce under braking).

2. Proper heal and toe driving means that the clutch is not engaged unless the car is in neutral anyway. The point of H/T is to match the syncros to the higher RPM when shifting to the lower gear.

3. Using the engine to brake means slowing the engine down which is precisely what you don't want to do in a competition environment.

4. Using the engine to brake introduces wear in a direction (think force vectors) that was not intended. While the wear is minimal in a modern well balanced engine, why bother?

 

You should really wear a thong while driving this way, the ladies love it.

 

My mom used to get mad at me when I would put it on neutral and use the brakes, she said it was bad for the car... Lol that was in a Renault I think lol... Back in the day back home.

I still do that. I see no reason to rev the motor up as I come to a stop. Coast it, and apply brakes... Brakes aren't really that expensive to replace, and I loose what, 10% of its life that way? Lol

 

Put's it in neutral!?! What a puss.

 

And that puss probably replaces his clutch half as often as not-******.

 

 

I don't think so. The clutch can handle it.
As a old timer road racer, I just can't imagine going for the brakes in neutral. Takes the fun out of it. I love hearing the engine/exhaust burble down.

 

You should never brake in neutral. If you need to accelerate out of the way of something you are screwed.

 

H/T'in for 15 solid years daily man...Porsches, Corvettes, Ferraris, Toyota pickups, Civics in racing shoes, Timberlands, loafers you name it. I've taught every friend I have how to HT.

Like I stated, cars that could use more rear brake bias benefit additionally in terms of braking distance with the addition of the effect of engine braking, resulting from a turn-in approach HT downshift. Perfect example would be certain older production class based vintage racecars. It's what I've experienced on the track first hand man...it is what it is. I've raced mid-engine 650whp cars, vintage racecars, stock cars, ZR1's, CTSV's, a prototype LFA (didn't need to heel to that one) and a bunch more. Don't know what to say man.

I think where you misunderstand what I'm saying, is that the heel toe, done properly doesn't upset the car (agreed), but also the effect of the resulting engine braking from the motor revving down, versus someone "coasting" and braking only (like was stated in this thread earlier), will provide a reduction in braking distance. If you are racing a car that can't use all the rear tire adhesion possible under braking, then engine braking from the rear can provide additional "resistance" to bleed off speed.

Think you just misunderstood my statement, or possible I didn't explain myself clearly enough. I agree with what you said, but you didn't agree with what I said.