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I have always changed the oil on my 99 Corvette with the oil hot, and engine up to temp.
If I get the hockey pucks to jack each side up, and put the rhino ramps under the front wheels, it could be done cold. (yes I always raise up the rear of the car to help get the oil out)
I guess the hot oil leaves the drain faster, but is there any other reason to do it hot other than trying to be fast?
I did the wife's car cold, and my old truck, both I can change the oil without even jacking them up, the oil pan slides under.
Sure is nice to not get burned when taking the plug out of the pan!
Its probably somewhat of a trade off. I think the reasoning behind changing it "cold" is that more of the oil will have settled into the pan so theoretically you would get more out. If you leave it level and wait long enough when doing it hot you would get the same amount out.
I often see the oil change stuff over analyzed. Dont really think it much matters. Raising the rear gets about 4 ounces more out, thats less that 2%.
But then again, the car doesn't necessarily have to be dirty to take a rag and buff it a bit sometimes we do stuff just because we "want" to.
Warm oil will run faster and you will drain more out when the oil is hot, again being that you have 5-30w Syn. oil that is. Cool oil will cling more to the metal that is cool and your not getting all of the used oil out (small amount, but still). If you worried about getting burned by the hot oil, let the drain plug drop when you drain it, you can get it later with a magnet tool (if you have one). And correct, till the rear up and wait at least 15 mins. to get all that old oil over the BAT WING drain pan..
NOTE: Also another tip, buy a small screen veg. strainer at the food store, and just when your at the last few turns of the HOT OIL DRAIN PLUG, put the strainer under it, drop the plug into the strainer and take it out the way of the HOT BURNING OIL.. some tips I've done before on my Z car.
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I drain mine when the oil is warm, not hot - simply because I don't want to burn myself on the hot parts. But I have drained oil out of my other cars when they were cold.
The general reason for changing your oil when hot is the belief that hot circulating oil will hold more of the dirt and contaminants in suspension. Cold oil that has been sitting in the pan will have had some of this "dirt" settled out and remaining in the pan or other places within the engine. I'm not an engineer and this is just my opinion from what I have been told over the years. It does make sense to me.
Scott
When cars used single viscosity non synthetic oil, I followed this procedure. With 0w, 5w, 10w multi viscosity synthetic oils of today, I doubt that it's necessary anymore.
This is probably one of those old dinosaur oil tails (pun intended) like you should change your oil every 3,000 miles because that's what Grampa did on his '49 Olds...
If you change your oil as you should it doesn't matter. It will flow out better from the pan and leave less in the pan. The ideal way is to get it hot and then let it sit until it's warm, as others have said.
But I just changed mine cold. It took a while for it to drain but I wasn't in a hurry as I was also adjusting my e brake.
Actually I'm not going to change my oil myself unless I'm doing somethin anyway.
It cost me 85 bucks to have it changed and also have the fuel system treated.
It cost me 86 bucks for oil, filter, and a can of superior coverall doing it myself. So it's not worth changing it myself to me. BUT, I used Mobil one and a wix filter. The other place used valvolene synthetic and a standard oil filter.
Last edited by RetiredSFC 97; Nov 28, 2011 at 11:46 AM.
I always change my oil when its warm, usually after sitting for a few hours after a drive. After a few (2-3 hrs) the oil is still very warm and flows out nicely, but not hot enough to cause you any burns if you touch something thats usually hot.
The general reason for changing your oil when hot is the belief that hot circulating oil will hold more of the dirt and contaminants in suspension. Cold oil that has been sitting in the pan will have had some of this "dirt" settled out and remaining in the pan or other places within the engine. I'm not an engineer and this is just my opinion from what I have been told over the years. It does make sense to me.
Scott
The general reason for changing your oil when hot is the belief that hot circulating oil will hold more of the dirt and contaminants in suspension. Cold oil that has been sitting in the pan will have had some of this "dirt" settled out and remaining in the pan or other places within the engine. I'm not an engineer and this is just my opinion from what I have been told over the years. It does make sense to me.
Scott
that is also what i was taught years ago by my autoshop instructor
Warm oil will run faster and you will drain more out when the oil is hot, again being that you have 5-30w Syn. oil that is. Cool oil will cling more to the metal that is cool and your not getting all of the used oil out (small amount, but still). If you worried about getting burned by the hot oil, let the drain plug drop when you drain it, you can get it later with a magnet tool (if you have one). And correct, till the rear up and wait at least 15 mins. to get all that old oil over the BAT WING drain pan..
NOTE: Also another tip, buy a small screen veg. strainer at the food store, and just when your at the last few turns of the HOT OIL DRAIN PLUG, put the strainer under it, drop the plug into the strainer and take it out the way of the HOT BURNING OIL.. some tips I've done before on my Z car.
And another one of those "why didn't I think of that" tips. Great idea !! I'll try it next time I do a hot/warm oil change.
The general reason for changing your oil when hot is the belief that hot circulating oil will hold more of the dirt and contaminants in suspension. Cold oil that has been sitting in the pan will have had some of this "dirt" settled out and remaining in the pan or other places within the engine. I'm not an engineer and this is just my opinion from what I have been told over the years. It does make sense to me.
Scott
Lets see, multi vis oils are thinner when they are cold and thicker when they are hot. Therfore, it stands to reason that a cold drain would be better than a hot drain mmmm. Maybe the "hot factor" overcomes the "low weight factor" making the hot change better for complete scavenging. What are your thoughts?
I do mine pretty warm to hot,but I do have the advantage of a 4-post lift and a 5gallon roll around oil drain pan. A cheap home version of the type the garages use. I raise it and let it sit long enough for the oil to drain from the block and the surrounding parts to cool a little.Just my preference,,feel the oil drains a little quicker and more thoroughly than cold. That said,with modern oil and filters,,not that big of deal. With the detergent/additive packages today,,even going by the OLM (as I do),,there is STILL plenty of protection left,as other members have posted oil analysis results. A few dribbles of old oil isn't going to pollute a 6.5 qt change. Actually driving it regularly and doing regular changes does more for the car than letting it sit and doing annual changes.A golf buddy had only a few hundred miles shy of 600,000 miles on the original drive train (all unopened and original) when he traded it in on cash for clunkers. It was STILL running fine and reliably!!