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Nope you can't. It has lead in it and it will ruin your cats.
Sunoco makes a 100 octane unleaded race fuel that some of the stations sell.
It won't help power unless you're tuned for it.
Greg
Not if you don't have cats I run meth(boost juice 50/50) so that I do not have to mess with finding race gas that would make it nearly impossible to take my car on road trips. I do have friends that run race gas a couple supras and a couple mustangs and it is expensive and seems to be more of a hassle than anything.
Not if you don't have cats I run meth(boost juice 50/50) so that I do not have to mess with finding race gas that would make it nearly impossible to take my car on road trips. I do have friends that run race gas a couple supras and a couple mustangs and it is expensive and seems to be more of a hassle than anything.
If you don't have cats.....you're right. But if you still have o2 sensors it (leaded gas) will foul those too.
Meth/water injection is a good way to increase octane ratings. Most of the built Subie/Evo guys use it.
A few of the guys mentioned the old days when we had to do the timing ourselves with a timing light. I remember timing my small block chevy engines up to 40 degrees before TDC. The newer head designs are more effecient and can use less timing. I think I read some where the new engines use about 30-35 degrees BTDC max ignition timing.
I love playing with the engine in my C3 454. 32 degrees at 3000 rpms is where it makes good power at. then let the idle timing fall where it may. it is a known fact that back then they retarded the crap out of the timing to pass epa regulations. When i was racing motorcycles, i would just love to read where people would just argue over how much hp their bike would pick up with race fuel. its the same principle as people with a 4 banger sentra filling up with 93 "cause it runs better"
If you don't have cats.....you're right. But if you still have o2 sensors it (leaded gas) will foul those too.
Meth/water injection is a good way to increase octane ratings. Most of the built Subie/Evo guys use it.
A few of the guys mentioned the old days when we had to do the timing ourselves with a timing light. I remember timing my small block chevy engines up to 40 degrees before TDC. The newer head designs are more effecient and can use less timing. I think I read some where the new engines use about 30-35 degrees BTDC max ignition timing.
Yea it would mess with sensors etc... the supra guys on leaded gas are always having plug problems
Octane in gasoline is a measure of the fuels ability to resist detonation or self ignition due to compression of the fuel/air mix. It does not indicate a more powerful fuel. As octane ratings rise the compression of a gasoline four stroke engine can be increased thus allowing a more powerful engine of a given size. The easiest way to improve octane ratings (and cheapest) was the addition of tetra-ethel lead. Unfortunately, it proved to be a hazard to human health and was outlawed. Lead also fouls emission controls on our exhaust systems and the sensors as well. Timing before TDC is for several reasons. Mostly it is to allow the system to keep pace with an engine spinning at many thousands of RPMs.
If you set the ignition to fire just as the piston began the power stroke, the piston would be almost at the bottom of the stroke before the combustion occurred. By advancing it by 30 or 40 degrees by the time combustion was fully under way the piston has just crossed the TDC point and is starting down. As for cost, Turbo Blue 110 octane was running $7.75 per gallon last year here in S/E Michigan.
Scott
Octane in gasoline is a measure of the fuels ability to resist detonation or self ignition due to compression of the fuel/air mix. It does not indicate a more powerful fuel. As octane ratings rise the compression of a gasoline four stroke engine can be increased thus allowing a more powerful engine of a given size. The easiest way to improve octane ratings (and cheapest) was the addition of tetra-ethel lead. Unfortunately, it proved to be a hazard to human health and was outlawed. Lead also fouls emission controls on our exhaust systems and the sensors as well. Timing before TDC is for several reasons. Mostly it is to allow the system to keep pace with an engine spinning at many thousands of RPMs.
If you set the ignition to fire just as the piston began the power stroke, the piston would be almost at the bottom of the stroke before the combustion occurred. By advancing it by 30 or 40 degrees by the time combustion was fully under way the piston has just crossed the TDC point and is starting down. As for cost, Turbo Blue 110 octane was running $7.75 per gallon last year here in S/E Michigan.
Scott
I've only seen Sunoco race gasoline at one gas station around here, but you can also buy a couple different blends at a pump in the pits of Norwalk Darg strip, now called Summit Motorsports Park.
Octane in gasoline is a measure of the fuels ability to resist detonation or self ignition due to compression of the fuel/air mix. It does not indicate a more powerful fuel. As octane ratings rise the compression of a gasoline four stroke engine can be increased thus allowing a more powerful engine of a given size. The easiest way to improve octane ratings (and cheapest) was the addition of tetra-ethel lead. Unfortunately, it proved to be a hazard to human health and was outlawed. Lead also fouls emission controls on our exhaust systems and the sensors as well. Timing before TDC is for several reasons. Mostly it is to allow the system to keep pace with an engine spinning at many thousands of RPMs.
If you set the ignition to fire just as the piston began the power stroke, the piston would be almost at the bottom of the stroke before the combustion occurred. By advancing it by 30 or 40 degrees by the time combustion was fully under way the piston has just crossed the TDC point and is starting down. As for cost, Turbo Blue 110 octane was running $7.75 per gallon last year here in S/E Michigan.
Scott
There are several stations not far from here on Intl Speedway in Daytona that have race fuels. Glad to know to stay away though. Guess I'll stick with 93.
We've been through this before, but once again- Octane is a hydrocarbon-just like propane, butane, etc. Octane (a liquid) has LESS energy than the same amount of the liquid we call gasoline, so adding octane LOWERS the energy of the fuel. The ONLY reason to add octane to gasoline is to prevent pre-ignition. It's counter-productive to add any more octane than you need
i ran some of this racing fuel in a 8 hp briggs once. cut the hell out of my bermuda lawn. ended up with bent valve stems. at the time i thought it was because the valves got too hot because of the higher octane (longer burn time = more heat). from some of the previous posts this may not have been the cause of the bent valve stems? anybody want to try this in their mower and report their findings?
i ran some of this racing fuel in a 8 hp briggs once. Cut the hell out of my bermuda lawn. Ended up with bent valve stems. At the time i thought it was because the valves got too hot because of the higher octane (longer burn time = more heat). From some of the previous posts this may not have been the cause of the bent valve stems? Anybody want to try this in their mower and report their findings?
Are Chevron Techron 93 and Shell V Power 93 to best fuels? Which do you prefer and why? Or is there no difference? Or is there another type besides these two that is your favorite?
Are Chevron Techron 93 and Shell V Power 93 to best fuels? Which do you prefer and why? Or is there no difference? Or is there another type besides these two that is your favorite?
You should be fine with any top tier 93. Even though GM says 91 t0 93,,especially since you are in a warmer climate,,stay with 93 if you can(you never know what the oil industry or local/state governments are going to do),as it will give you that little extra knock protection margin. Less knock and the computer will give the best timing advance for your type of driving.