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Hey guys! Sorry about making you wait but we got a late start last night so we worked til kinda late to get her fired up! I didn’t replace the o-ring but I have really good oil pressure, guess I got lucky!!! The car is actually really drivable considering how radical this cam is. I am blown away once again by the learning capabilities of this cars ecm. The idle still jumps around at stops but it eventually settles into a really awesome lope! The Hinson engine mounts went in without a hitch and really keep the engine solid. I didn’t notice much vibration transfer at all with them installed. However, instead of the engine rocking in the cradle, the whole car rocks at idle... but I love that! I am planning on making a good comparison video of before and after, hopefully this weekend. Til then, I did make a short teaser of the idle with my gopro this morning! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDNC1...aH7y1ROrtVMj0u
Last edited by jake07Z06; Jan 20, 2012 at 12:28 PM.
If I were you, I would replace that small round blue\oil pump gasket in your picture. There have been many people said they looked fine and then had to pull it apart again to replace that dang gasket because of real low oil pressure.
It also happened to me on my Silverado cam swap. A real pain. I pulled it off and inspected it. Looked to be in great shape...but it never sealed good. Well worth the $1.50 right now.
Very true. I always use a new Oring from GM
you can install the oil pump bolts and leave it loose(4 bolts), then install the p/u tube with the 10mm bolt
If anyone has any cam install questions, as always.....please post
Ok, so ive driven the car about 100 miles and ive got some questions. I've already noticed a shift in the power band towards the top end but how much is a tune going to wake this thing up? I'm planning on next weekend for the tune but until then I was looking for some approximated gains from tunes on cammed cars.
Ok, so ive driven the car about 100 miles and ive got some questions. I've already noticed a shift in the power band towards the top end but how much is a tune going to wake this thing up? I'm planning on next weekend for the tune but until then I was looking for some approximated gains from tunes on cammed cars.
Don't get me wrong, I am happy as can be. I didn't assume it would be making full power without the tune, I was more or less wondering how much I am feeling from just the cam swap and just how much of a difference the tune is going to make.
Don't get me wrong, I am happy as can be. I didn't assume it would be making full power without the tune, I was more or less wondering how much I am feeling from just the cam swap and just how much of a difference the tune is going to make.
You can't ever tell, it depends on how close your existing tune is to the new setup. If it is way off, you will feel a hugh difference.
Ok, so ive driven the car about 100 miles and ive got some questions. I've already noticed a shift in the power band towards the top end but how much is a tune going to wake this thing up? I'm planning on next weekend for the tune but until then I was looking for some approximated gains from tunes on cammed cars.
Unfortunately you fell victim to internet hype. The MS4 makes absolutely zero low end grunt due to such low vacuum and cylinder bleed off in 346ci engines. No disrespect to TSP but they really should put an "*" next to that cam on their website educating people that it is a max effort camshaft for a stock cube engine.
Unfortunately you fell victim to internet hype. The MS4 makes absolutely zero low end grunt due to such low vacuum and cylinder bleed off in 346ci engines. No disrespect to TSP but they really should put an "*" next to that cam on their website educating people that it is a max effort camshaft for a stock cube engine.
Get some gears (4.10's), or change cams.
Tsp actually tried to turn me on to their 220r cam when I told them my engine was otherwise stock so don't blame them. I chose this cam after doing my research and it is exactly what I was looking for, a max effort cam. As tempting as is was to go with a smaller cam that is better suited to this engine the way it sits, I knew I would end up changing it again as I am not done with this build by any means. Next ill probably do some heads... and probably have to upgrade the clutch while I'm at it. I installed Hinson's short mounts in case I want to install a fast manifold when I swap heads. Who knows what's next after that. Probably a full rotating assembly. I just don't like limiting myself to one thing, you know? So, in short, I go off the notion that you pick the cam that suits your needs then you build an engine around that cam. But, since this is my hobby, I'm not in any rush to do it all at once.
Tsp actually tried to turn me on to their 220r cam when I told them my engine was otherwise stock so don't blame them. I chose this cam after doing my research and it is exactly what I was looking for, a max effort cam. As tempting as is was to go with a smaller cam that is better suited to this engine the way it sits, I knew I would end up changing it again as I am not done with this build by any means. Next ill probably do some heads... and probably have to upgrade the clutch while I'm at it. I installed Hinson's short mounts in case I want to install a fast manifold when I swap heads. Who knows what's next after that. Probably a full rotating assembly. I just don't like limiting myself to one thing, you know? So, in short, I go off the notion that you pick the cam that suits your needs then you build an engine around that cam. But, since this is my hobby, I'm not in any rush to do it all at once.
I hear ya.
Just keep in mind you will need at least a 4.10 to make that cam feel somewhat "torquey" at low rpm. Otherwise it never will. A tune can't fix physical characteristics and valve events.
Just keep in mind you will need at least a 4.10 to make that cam feel somewhat "torquey" at low rpm. Otherwise it never will. A tune can't fix physical characteristics and valve events.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
You are 100% correct, and I agree. I am by no means expecting great low end torque. The numbers I’ve seen on MS4 ls6 cars with similar mods are usually ~435rwhp and ~400rwtq but all happening above 3500 rpms. When I said I felt a shift in the power band to the top end, I didn’t mean that in a negative way. I was simply noting what differences I can feel so far. I’m hoping there are some gains across the board (compared to how it is running right now) after the tune. That is what I was trying to get at in my earlier posts. Sorry for any confusion.
I also have a quick question for anyone still paying attention to this thread Right now I am running a stock intake duct with my Vararam VR-B2. I was looking at Vararam’s power duct but I don’t like the idea of the maf being moved closer to the tb. Should I change that out before the tune, or will it even make a difference? If so, should I use Vararam’s or one of the other high flow units out there?
You are 100% correct, and I agree. I am by no means expecting great low end torque. The numbers I’ve seen on MS4 ls6 cars with similar mods are usually ~435rwhp and ~400rwtq but all happening above 3500 rpms. When I said I felt a shift in the power band to the top end, I didn’t mean that in a negative way. I was simply noting what differences I can feel so far. I’m hoping there are some gains across the board (compared to how it is running right now) after the tune. That is what I was trying to get at in my earlier posts. Sorry for any confusion.
I also have a quick question for anyone still paying attention to this thread Right now I am running a stock intake duct with my Vararam VR-B2. I was looking at Vararam’s power duct but I don’t like the idea of the maf being moved closer to the tb. Should I change that out before the tune, or will it even make a difference? If so, should I use Vararam’s or one of the other high flow units out there?
I had the same issue with the Vararam PD. I ended up buying it and relocating my IAT sensor. It was pretty easy, and relocating my MAF solved some surging issues I was having. I bought a harness, and a seperate IAT sensor that plugs into that harness. Drilled a hole in my Vararam cover, stuck the sensor in there and couldnt be happier. As far as I am concerned, my intake is reading cold air temps, with my MAF right in front of my throttle body. Something to think about.