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My temp gauge just pegged to 260. Car doesn't seem exceptionally hot. Also, after letting car sit and cool off for an hour, when I crank the engine then th gauge immediately goes back to redline/260 degrees.
Is it pegged on hot? When the oil pressure does this it means the oil pressure sending unit is faulty. I would suspect the same kind of thing with the temp sending unit. Have you checked the wires going to the sending unit? Sounds like maybe a dead ground.
Other members may have more experience with this than me. Good Luck
Check the temperature with the digital readout. The temp guage is an indicator. The digital guage is accurate. To do this press the gauges button to get the guage readings where the odometeer reading is normally shown. Then press the button until the water temp comes up. That will show you your true water temp. Most likely the sender for the analog guage is bad and needs to be replaced.
Check the temperature with the digital readout. The temp guage is an indicator. The digital guage is accurate. To do this press the gauges button to get the guage readings where the odometeer reading is normally shown. Then press the button until the water temp comes up. That will show you your true water temp. Most likely the sender for the analog guage is bad and needs to be replaced.
The only other thing is air bubbles in the system....but this is unlikely unless you just had your coolant changed....
Check the temperature with the digital readout. The temp guage is an indicator. The digital guage is accurate. To do this press the gauges button to get the guage readings where the odometeer reading is normally shown. Then press the button until the water temp comes up. That will show you your true water temp. Most likely the sender for the analog guage is bad and needs to be replaced.
does the temp ga and the digital get their signals from different senders?
Thanks all! Very helpful info thus far. The digital display says xxx degrees. The gauge reads pegged at 260 even right after the car is started from stone cold.
For whatever it is worth... I did get a new battery today...
Try unhooking the battery for a minute and re-hooking it back up. Things might reset. I will watch this post, if this does not help you, I will dig into the factory repair manual.
It does sound like a faulty sending unit though.
Also try to pull any codes from the DIC and report.
The ECT sensor is located behind the Alternator and into the block according to the manual.
Make sure the connections there are good. If you should have to replace the ECT sensor, you will need to drain the fluids, remove the alternator so you can have access to the ECT. I can try and scan the removal and installation instructions for you should you get to that point.
FYI only, the coolant temperature sensor is a critical item to the operation of the engine. It tells the PCM the obvious, engine temperature, which in turn the PCM selects different tuning or control parameters to run the engine. Many of the tables inside the PCM are based on temperature. I've only heard of one or two ECT sensor failures so far so check the connector to it first.
Try unhooking the battery for a minute and re-hooking it back up. Things might reset. I will watch this post, if this does not help you, I will dig into the factory repair manual.
It does sound like a faulty sending unit though.
Also try to pull any codes from the DIC and report.
Excellent, thank you so much. I'll be back shortly to report.
Glad to know that there is only one sender. I hope it doesn't require draining all the fluids as they are fresh... the joys of ownership
FYI only, the coolant temperature sensor is a critical item to the operation of the engine. It tells the PCM the obvious, engine temperature, which in turn the PCM selects different tuning or control parameters to run the engine. Many of the tables inside the PCM are based on temperature. I've only heard of one or two ECT sensor failures so far so check the connector to it first.
Yes, that is important to know, thank you. If I don't get it solved, I wonder if it would be ok to drive carefully 30 miles to the C5 guy I use?
Almost sure you really aren't at those temperatures for real. I would think you can get it to a dealer assuming its not too cold outside which would warrant a richer mixture from the PCM controls. Just take it easier over there if you decide that direction.
If your PCM detected an engine over temperature condition, it would have set a MIL (check engine) lamp. The PCM would have sent the IPC to turn on service engine soon lamp. The PCM will alternately disable two groups of four cylinders by turning off the injectors. And it would have stored all this as a freeze frame.
Almost sure you really aren't at those temperatures for real. I would think you can get it to a dealer assuming its not too cold outside which would warrant a richer mixture from the PCM controls. Just take it easier over there if you decide that direction.
Good info. I'm learning. Glad to know I can get it there if needed. Fortuantely, the battery disconnect and reconnect seems to have worked for now. I drove 15-20 miles afterward and temp is fine on the DIC and the gauge. Not sure what happened yesterday but hopefully it was some quirky thing and all is good!
If your PCM detected an engine over temperature condition, it would have set a MIL (check engine) lamp. The PCM would have sent the IPC to turn on service engine soon lamp. The PCM will alternately disable two groups of four cylinders by turning off the injectors. And it would have stored all this as a freeze frame.
I doubt you hit the max temp and not noticed.
I never got that far, luckily I didn't need to! Good to understand what would happen in a legitimately extreme temp condition.
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