harmonic balancer install
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,208
Likes: 6
From: Prince George VA
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 14
From: Odessa TX
I need to do this soon as well.
Engine is under warranty but I'm not sure how comfortable I feel letting a dealer do this...
When switching to an underdrive pulley, is it still necessary to match the weights and etc?
Engine is under warranty but I'm not sure how comfortable I feel letting a dealer do this...
When switching to an underdrive pulley, is it still necessary to match the weights and etc?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 1,139
From: Santa Rosa Beach FL
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 234
Likes: 9
Just did mine yesterday and I read a lot before I did it. It depends on the bolt you're using. Stock GM or ARP?
I used an SLP/Powerbond pulley and new crank bolt from GM.
Install pulley with an appropriate installer. Or use the oven. I used the oven, heated to 225 degrees, and it slipped right on.
Then use the OLD bolt and torque to 240 lb ft. I torqued to 250 on accident, but oh well.
Then remove the bold and check the measurement of how far the crank snout is recessed in from the balancer face. Stock spec is .097-.176 I believe.
If you're good there, then take the new bolt, heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer, apply red loc tite to the bottom 1/2 of the threads, install and torque to 37 lb ft.
Then rotate bolt and additional 140 degrees.
That's it.
Now that's for a GM bolt, if you're using an ARP then you just torque to a lb ft measurement and that's it.
I used an SLP/Powerbond pulley and new crank bolt from GM.
Install pulley with an appropriate installer. Or use the oven. I used the oven, heated to 225 degrees, and it slipped right on.
Then use the OLD bolt and torque to 240 lb ft. I torqued to 250 on accident, but oh well.
Then remove the bold and check the measurement of how far the crank snout is recessed in from the balancer face. Stock spec is .097-.176 I believe.
If you're good there, then take the new bolt, heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer, apply red loc tite to the bottom 1/2 of the threads, install and torque to 37 lb ft.
Then rotate bolt and additional 140 degrees.
That's it.
Now that's for a GM bolt, if you're using an ARP then you just torque to a lb ft measurement and that's it.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 593
Likes: 9
From: San Antonio Texas
A word of caution. Unless you are a seasoned DIY and have good mechanical skills, AND a good Service Manual, I would suggest you spend the money and have a good reputable shop replace this for you. There are some tricks, required special tools and some technical knowledge that make this seemingly simple job a nightmare. I do not know your ability so this is just a friendly, fellow forum member caution! Good Luck.
ps. While you in there I would replace the seal inside the timing chain cover and maybe even the cam, timing chain, if you have the funds or the inclination!
ps. While you in there I would replace the seal inside the timing chain cover and maybe even the cam, timing chain, if you have the funds or the inclination!
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 459
Likes: 1
I just did mine. I had to remove the stearing gear (rack), which took removing the abs pump bracket on my 2000. The lines that hook up to the stearing gear are a little tricky to remove, and put back in. The rack slid out through the drivers side. It helped big time to remove the radiator fans as well. It took a 3/4in impact to get the stock bolt out, and I replaced it with a ARP bolt. It also required a puller, and a pusher for install. While I was down that far, I replaced the timing cover gasket. I only had 40k miles, so I didn't do a timing chain. Don't go back with a factory balance. I used a Powerbond.
