1999 ABS Removal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Buda TX
1999 ABS Removal
I have a 1999 C5 that has been a track only car for a very long time. The ABS module quit working about 4 years ago. Since parts are scarce and very expensive I have not replace the module. Unfortunately, the last time I checked the 1999 cannot be repaired.
I either want to remove it and delete the ABS system entirely or possibly update to a newer system. I think I remember the 02-04' Z06 being better than my 1999.
I have not talked to anyone who can say the system can simply be removed from the car. No one seems to be sure of the results.
Can anyone help with this?
I either want to remove it and delete the ABS system entirely or possibly update to a newer system. I think I remember the 02-04' Z06 being better than my 1999.
I have not talked to anyone who can say the system can simply be removed from the car. No one seems to be sure of the results.
Can anyone help with this?
Last edited by TEXAST1; Apr 23, 2012 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Moved to Tech
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Buda TX
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 25
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 5
From: Metairie LA
Stand alone engine management (above) and dual (Tilton?) master cylinders (F&R) with adjustable balance bar for brake bias. Would take some fabrication, but would be a slick setup. My $.02.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Buda TX
I really want to make sure it can be removed and made into a non ABS car without some unforeseen consequence. It has not worked for the past 4 seasons and is now just a chunk of metal in front of the engine.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 5
From: Metairie LA
Disconnect it at the pump/brake control module and pull every fuse that has to do with traction control and active handling and see what happens. Without digging through the wiring diagrams, that's an educated guess. I'm not sure if that would trigger a limp home/reduced power mode and lots of codes or not. Others here are probably more knowledgeable.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Buda TX
Disconnect it at the pump/brake control module and pull every fuse that has to do with traction control and active handling and see what happens. Without digging through the wiring diagrams, that's an educated guess. I'm not sure if that would trigger a limp home/reduced power mode and lots of codes or not. Others here are probably more knowledgeable.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Buda TX
I have changed the engine (rebuilt, replaced and some times rebuilt again) at least 12 times since I started racing the car in SCCA T1 back in 1999. It makes engine swaps and repair that much harder.
Secondly, it is literally dead weight. Weight is the enemy with any form of racing. If I needed ballast, hanging it out in front of the front axle on the drivers side of the car is not an ideal location.
Last edited by TEXAST1; Apr 24, 2012 at 11:14 AM. Reason: need for a comma
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 5
From: Metairie LA
Old school (pre-ABS) brakes were a (dual) master cylinder, through some sort of proprtioning valve (you may want to add an adjustable one to the rear circuit-cheap) to front and (separate) rear brake circuits. Relatively dumb hydraulic system. Some newer systems eliminate the proportioning valve by selectively engineering the master cylinder versus the caliper cylinder volumes. Take a look at the system schematics, and do a little "plumbing". That's what I'd do. If your ABS pump is now non-functional, it's merely a giant pass through hydraulic distribution block.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Buda TX
Old school (pre-ABS) brakes were a (dual) master cylinder, through some sort of proprtioning valve (you may want to add an adjustable one to the rear circuit-cheap) to front and (separate) rear brake circuits. Relatively dumb hydraulic system. Some newer systems eliminate the proportioning valve by selectively engineering the master cylinder versus the caliper cylinder volumes. Take a look at the system schematics, and do a little "plumbing". That's what I'd do. If your ABS pump is now non-functional, it's merely a giant pass through hydraulic distribution block.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Buda TX
I still have 1/2 a season to go this year and another championship to race. "About to" is not an actual concise time frame. I am thinking end of this season or 2013. Definitely not enough to justify spending any real cash on. If I had Lou's race budget I would just through the new Bosch system on and get real serious about ABS.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 5
From: Metairie LA
Typically the front of the master cylinder controls the front brakes and the rear the rears. What I would do (after checking the shop manual), is plumb out of the "front" side of the proportioning valve/block to both front brakes. Tie them together with a brass "T" fitting and double flare everything. Similar for the rear. You'd basically recreate a C2/C3 brake system.
