When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If it is the exact car you want and the salesman was polite and helpful then don't let it hold you back. Or get them to knock off a little from somewhere else.
Make them an offer what you are willing to pay and tell them up front the doc fee has to come out of your offer. By law if they charge anyone a doc fee they have to charge everyone a doc fee.
I use to sell cars... the "doc fee" and "dealer prep" were just ways to boost the top line so we could show you how much we could "save" you on the bottom line later. Make an offer and tell them its an "out the door" offer. That includes everything - tax, title, license, dealer prep - EVERYTHING! If they dont accept it.... move on to the next deal. They HAVE to sell a car to stay in business, you DON'T Have to have your new vette right away? Good luck!
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
I'm with you - no way I'm going to pay a $399 document fee - just a matter of principle. But when it comes down to it, if you make an offer that is a take it or leave it type and they match it, then go for the car.
From: The line waiting to see Santa Claus stretched all the way back to Terre Haute, and I was at the end, Indiana
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18
Doc fees were originally set to recover a dealer's out of pocket expenses. I used to sell motorcycles, and there are lots of little things (depending on your state) that add up. I used to pay my accountant $10 per title app, it cost $15 for the title, it cost $12 to send it out with a signature required, etc. I charged $50...non negotiable. IMO, up to $99 is acceptable.
Unfortunately, the dealers have figured out that they can charge any amount and call it a "doc fee". The good thing is (in many states) it is non-taxable. The last car I bought, the dealer tried to get $499. I told him to drop the price of the car an additional $500. He eventually did, and I still spent the exact amount I offered, and saved taxes on $500.
I use to sell cars... the "doc fee" and "dealer prep" were just ways to boost the top line so we could show you how much we could "save" you on the bottom line later. Make an offer and tell them its an "out the door" offer. That includes everything - tax, title, license, dealer prep - EVERYTHING! If they dont accept it.... move on to the next deal. They HAVE to sell a car to stay in business, you DON'T Have to have your new vette right away? Good luck!
This is what I do. The only price I am interested in is the out of door price. They can break it down anyway they want but my out of door price does not change.
Almost walked on a Mustang Cobra years ago over a $399 doc fee. It was on of those after the fact "oh by the way" things. I'm usually good for a doc fee of no greater than $125. I got the old "we charge that to everyone," so I told the salesman that he needed to drop the selling price by the difference of $274. He had the audacity to come back with, "but we have a deal." I said, no, we had a deal, if you want to sell the car lower the price. He hemmed and hawed and I finally gave him my cell number and told him to call me back when he was able to talk to a decision maker. About an hour later the phone rang. Imagine that!
This is what I do. The only price I am interested in is the out of door price. They can break it down anyway they want but my out of door price does not change.
Make them an offer what you are willing to pay and tell them up front the doc fee has to come out of your offer. By law if they charge anyone a doc fee they have to charge everyone a doc fee.
My offer is the out-the-door price with a clear title in hand. I'll deal with the state, they can deal with their book keepers.
I just looked at a replacement for my 2003 truck and the Doc fee on the sheet was $717.....I S--t you not .
Im not ready to buy it until June anyway but I didnt know how out of line that really was until I read this post. Guess thats another thing I have to talk to them about when I do go back to buy.
I just looked at a replacement for my 2003 truck and the Doc fee on the sheet was $717.....I S--t you not .
Im not ready to buy it until June anyway but I didnt know how out of line that really was until I read this post. Guess thats another thing I have to talk to them about when I do go back to buy.
Thanks
The Doc fee at the local Ford dealership was $700.00.
Finance manager said $300.00 is mendatory and is for insurance if my car was stolen, I said that's why I carry my own feckin insurance.
I walked --- I was buying a used GM product from them, not a Ford.