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My 02 just turned 10 and as part of the service I am going to have the valve springs changed. (never done- 36k miles)
I plan on keeping the car another 2-3 years. Is there any benefit to having aftermarket ones put in? 99% is street driving, and I am going to have a dealership do the work.
^ +1 ^ If you're not going to keep the car much longer, just put in a new set of GM valve springs. Should be good enough for the street. I'd suggest a set of new valve guide seals while it's apart ... can't hurt.
My guess is most shops run in the $90/hr range +/- $10. Shooting from the hip they'd probably bill between 4-6 hours.
If you have any mechanical abilities you may want to consider doing it yourself. It is not difficult nor is it rocket science. An extra body may help move the project along. It took me about 6-8 hours but that was at a total snails pace.
The actual process of replacing each set of springs once all the valve covers are removed is perhaps 5 minutes per pair with a dual valve spring compressor tool. You will spend more time getting plug wires off and plugs out than actually changing the springs.
The project may appear daunting at first, but once you start it isn't too difficult.
My guess is most shops run in the $90/hr range +/- $10. Shooting from the hip they'd probably bill between 4-6 hours.
If you have any mechanical abilities you may want to consider doing it yourself. It is not difficult nor is it rocket science. An extra body may help move the project along. It took me about 6-8 hours but that was at a total snails pace.
The actual process of replacing each set of springs once all the valve covers are removed is perhaps 5 minutes per pair with a dual valve spring compressor tool. You will spend more time getting plug wires off and plugs out than actually changing the springs.
The project may appear daunting at first, but once you start it isn't too difficult.
+1 I found it quite difficult to hook up the air hose into the spark plug hole. It was just too long and limp to accurately position to get the threads started. (insert punchline here)
I also had some difficulty getting the right tool to turn the crank over to TDC to torque the rockers, but accomplished the task with a strap wrench.
I worked on it for about a week for an hour or two a day. Took lots of pictures along the way.
It's a little scary at first but man it is satisfying to have known I did the job right and did it myself (with the help of CF of course)
As Krispy said there are several tricks or work arounds to get the project done.
I did not use compressed air to hold the valves up. I set each cylinder to TDC, tried the rope method, but that was a PITA. With each piston at TDC the valves can't drop into the void. In fact, none of my valves even moved when I pulled the retainers and springs. I did treat it as I was doing surgery however.
There are several tricks for turning the engine over to get each cylinder to TDC. The strap wrench as mentioned by Krispy, jack the car up in the back, put it it 6th gear and nudge the tires (takes two people) or, I bought a 15/16" offset box wrench (the closest thing to the 23 or 24 mm size I could find) and rotated the engine by the balancer bolt. That way I could visually watch the crank turn and observe the rocker movement. I also place a drinking straw in the spark plug hole to monitor the piston movement. Sounds odd but it worked fantastic.
GM replacement springs will be sufficient and it takes around an hour and a half for two people to tackle. Plus you know if you scuff or damage the paint. The dealership will not tell you!
I changed out my 02 springs a couple months ago. I bought the $9.99 air compressor/spark plug adapter from summit and had no problem with it you just have to wiggle it around some to get it started in there. I used the trick flow spring tool, its a good unit for $69.00. Bought the oem springs and valve seals from Gene C. which cost about $100.00 total. Took about 3 hours with my teenage son and we were taking our time. As far as torquing the rockers I just worked my way fronthe inside out on both sides. Absolutely no problems. The torque method is used by a reputable speed shop in my area so this method was good enought for me also. The most important thing I would watch for is making sure you have the keepers locked in good. After I was finished I sold the tools here on the forum.
For those of us who are learning on the fly - does the .05 lift difference matter?
.050" makes lots of difference when it comes to cam lift. But not sure really what your after here? Are you asking about springs that are good to .600" or .650".
A person with a stock cam .550" lift would be fine upgrading to spring up to .600" if everything else such as installed height and seat pressure.
.050" makes lots of difference when it comes to cam lift. But not sure really what your after here? Are you asking about springs that are good to .600" or .650".
A person with a stock cam .550" lift would be fine upgrading to spring up to .600" if everything else such as installed height and seat pressure.
Just if the 1218 is all someone with a stock cam would need, or if the 1518 would see any gains.