I've read the threads on proper jacking, etc. and how to position the jack stands under the front and rear cross members.

Can anyone recommend the correct length/width of wood pieces required? I understand the goal is to position 2 blocks on top of the 1 longer block that runs the length of the cross members.

I have a project that will require me to remove all four wheels at one time and need to do this the right way.

Thanks!

 

I will use a piece of 2x4 that is just a little shorter then the cross members.

 

Thanks. Can I get by with one 2X4 section or three per the pictures below?

Any reason why there are two shorter blocks above the cross member section?

 

I'm my opinion the first one is fine if you use it only as pictured: to support the car with jack stands, but not for jacking. If you use it for jacking all the force will be applied at the center point of the cross member!

The second one uses two shorter blocks so you can jack from its center, while appliying the force at both ends of the cross member, avoiding a potential problem.

 

I use 2x6 as it positions over the entire flat portion of the crossmember. I'm actually using the composite deck boards for it and they are 1x6. I have two different pieces for the front and rear. For the front, I have two pieces glued and screwed together to make it 2x6 and the length is just shy of the lower control arms. For the rear, I use a single piece of the 1x6 that is just longer than the crossmember. I don't double up on the rear as when I lift the front up, I can't get the jack under the rear with a 2x6. Once I get the rear up with the jack, I use a couple extra 1x6 blocks to double up the ends where the stands are placed.
All this is achieved after I have driven the car up on ramps (front ramps are about 4" high, rear 2") so that I have a little room to work with the jack. And yes, it's a low profile jack but these cars are so low that I can't even get the jack and the 2x6 block under the crossmember at ride height. A 2 post lift would sure be nice!!!
For safety, I also position 4 jack stands at the rocker(puck) locations. They do not carry the weight of the car but are there just in case. I also have a huge block of wood that is about 12x16 that I place between the jack stands in the front or rear depending upon what side I'm working, again....to catch the car just in case.

 

No way. If you jack from the center, that 2x4 is gonna flex and then crack. Now if the two upper blocks touching the crossmember were longer and only allowed a few inches of gap to at least support the jacking area, then I don't see a problem.

The best design I've seen, and I plan on making one, was made of 1x6 box tubing(steel). Just like above but welded up steel. The area that touched the crossmember has rubber pads on it and wings that would cup the crossmember so it was locked in position. I saw it somewhere on this site.

 

I think you're overcomplicating this. Just get something solid like a 1 x 6 piece of pine that runs the length of the cross member, jack it in the middle, and you'll be just fine. The board won't crack, you're spreading a lot of the lifting force across the cross member (not just in the middle), and it will only take you a few bucks and a few minutes to get the board, cut it, and lift the car. This is the setup I use and it's been perfectly rock solid. People put way too much thought into things like this (IMHO).

 

Here you go:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...g-c6-pics.html

 

Have you tried? That argument has been put on the table several times. People who use this setup swear by it and say it's safe, others don't agree... Me, personally, this is what I use:

 

Actually no it won't. I used 2x6's instead of 2x4 and I first thought the same thing. But it lifted right up. It flexed some but it didn't crack or even act like it was going to. Treated boards offer added strength as well.

I am going to get some of the cross members pictured above at some point though. They aren't very expensive at all.

 

I just went and measured the peices of 2x6 that I've been using and they are 25'' long.

Oh and this is the link I found shortly after getting my car and it has worked for me. http://www.z06vette.com/diy_lift.php The longest the car has been in the air using this method was a little more than a week.

 

Here's the write up on how to build the wood ones.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ting-pads.html

 

Nice. What is this and who makes it?

 

available at summit racing

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU

Has anyone made one of these?

 

By the time you bought the parts it would most likely end up costing more.

 

This looks like the hot ticket and I don't have to saw, glue or nail anything. How does this adapt to the jack? I'm assuming just a 1/2" or so long round stub that goes into where the jack lifts in place of the saddle... Correct?

 

Couldn't agree more.

 

Or.......... you could make one of these instead ! http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm
Now that is what you really call overcomplicating it . . . .
I know, I know... my mind tends to wander.

 

Thanks!

 

Looks like it bolts onto the jack:

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...sum-918008.pdf