I just sent you a PM with all the prices for the parts listed above. We have everything in stock.

The fiberglass inner fender liners will need to be repaired. The bottom fender well sections bolt to the part thats missing. I may the the sections you need in stock that you can fiberglass them in for the easiest and best fix.

 

The bumper cover attaches there with three screws and another filler piece at the bottom that also ties to the cover and outer air deflector.

Mudflap? You are joking right?

 

Here is a pic of the section:

 

Thanks for pricing the parts I need Marc! Can you price these parts as well for the inner fender liner pieces that I need? Thanks!

 

I looked at what i had for repair sections for your inner fender liners and none of what i have will work.

I have a car on the way from the insurance company that appears to have the LH side for repair. I will have it early next week. You can find them and if your not in a huge rush we will get some in over the weeks to come.

 

Thanks again Marc! What should I expect to pay for those parts if I get them from you guys?

 

$95 per side. They are $400 each new from GM and labor intensive to replace.

 

That is an understatement!

And getting used ones off , without ruining them, takes heat, a long stiff putty knife, hammer, patience and a little luck. Luckily I was there to assist getting the ones off from my local parts source. The way he was going at it, they would have been busted to pieces.

 

Yeah, that sounds like a lot of work for minimum payoff. I may work on that later, but not until I hear the engine

 

Hey guys,
So I'm starting to make some progress. I've had time to review the parts and formulate more of a plan. Quick question, how important is the "Front Center Air Dam"? Mine is busted but possibly repairable. Does it open at a certain speed? All I see on mine are what's left of 2 springs. Any details would be much appreciated, thanks!

Also, I'm experimenting with using J-B Weld to fix the cracked plastic pieces. Anyone have experience with this?

 

All 3 sections are very important for proper cooling, as they force air up through the radiator. There are 2 aluminum reinforcements behind the center section to keep it in place, but spring loaded in case you scrape something.

Generally you will want to research each of the materials you are trying to bond, and then find a compatible adhesive. It will rarely end up as strong as an unbroken piece, so I would suggest replacing anything that is broken or missing.

Glue and Duct Tape are not suitable repair solutions in my view.

Todd

 

Thanks for the additional info. Does anyone have a picture/schematic of what that section is supposed to look like when put together? I bought one of the online manuals, but it is not helpful for this. What is the best place to get the 1999 GM Service manual set? There are 3 books that the dealers use. I've seen them for $200 new and $100 used online. Anyone have a better price or another manual set you would recommend? Thanks!

 

Hey guys,

So I've made a lot of progress this past week. The radiator, radiator fan, ac condenser, etc. all hooked up and working. There is an electrical problem that I can't seem to crack yet however.

The battery is fully charged. When I hook it up and turn the key to accessory or ignition, I get the "Pull key and wait 10 seconds" message on the DIC. After I do that, I see "Service column lock". This is a known issue related to the BCM and CLB; the steering wheel lock fails to engage. Here's the book I found about this issue: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ky-please.html. Anyway, I followed the instructions, pulled fuse 23 and waited for a minute. Afterwards, the message was gone and I was able to drive the car again. However, after I disconnect the battery, I have to pull fuse 23 again and repeat the process to drive the car faster than 1.5 mph without it shutting off. The car has been recalled and the CLB was bypassed I believe. There is also a random clicking sound in the passenger footwell near the BCM/fusebox and the interior lights flicker on and off in conjunction with the clicking. I've also checked the related grounds and cleaned them. Any ideas how to get around this or what could be causing the problem? I wasn't sure if it was an electrical short or if the security system may need to be reset in some way. The battery died and the car was sitting for over a month after it's accident and before I purchased it.

Thanks for taking the time to read all this and for your help!

 

I uploaded additional photos of my progress here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/80267880@N06/

 

that those lights don't work for ****. all the china made projector lights do not have proper optics. they are basically a lightbulb in glass/plastic

 

So I just ran diagnostics, here are the results.

I'm looking into the "H C" issues first since those are definitely current. I've also heard that intermittent problems can display as "H". Of course, the "H" could also be historical problems that weren't cleared from the system.

Not surprised there are issues with the Horn relay and the Rear Defogger relay. The horn wont shut off when it's connected and the Rear Defogger has a very exposed wire that doesn't look good. I'm going to get a new relay for the Horn today hopefully.

Interestingly, the Column Lock/Unlock Drive (A) and (B) is displayed as a current issue. Since my car was recalled for the column lock, I would have expected this to not be an issue. Does this mean the BCM will need to be replaced? Any other possibilities? Thanks guys!

 

You need a aftermarket CLB located here. Throw away the K harness GM used for the recall as you can tell it does not work. This will fix the "Pull key wait 10 Secs."

 

Thanks Marc! Would the CLB also fix the clicking noise and flickering lights or is that totally unrelated?

 

totally unrelated. It normally is a voltage issue. Fully charge the battery and it should stop. Have you repaired the front harness?

 

I just put the bumper cover back on yesterday with headlights/fog lights; however, I have not yet connected the headlights or running lights. I have fully charged the battery multiple times to test the lights/accessories. Is it possible that the voltage could be thrown off because the headlights/running lights are not yet connected? I've cleaned the grounds for the lights/horn/windshield wiper pump yet they all still have issues. I still think the horn is a bad relay, not sure about the lights/windshield wiper yet.