I just received my huge order of Adams supplies. I do this every 3-4 years and this year I ordered a new Flex polisher to replace my aging PC polisher. It is a really solid machine.

My only challenge is when polishing/waxing the side panels. It's an easier job on the hood, trunk, etc. where you have a flat surface, however working the side panels with BSM, etc. is more difficult than a hand polish/wax.

 

Griots Random Orbital is my newest auto body care tool and so far it's not let me do any damage. I don't feel like I'm getting the most out of it yet but I am optimistic.

Okie

 

I have used a PC for several years and it is pretty much idiot proof. Having said that it takes one hell of a lot of work. Another neg. is the foam buffing pads r expensive an do not last long. I have stepped to a makita variable speed trigger rotory buffer. I only use wool buffing pads one for cutting one for polishing. It takes a lot of experience to move up to a rotary. I can do what use to take me hours do in minutes but again not everyone has the experience to use one. When I finish with the rotory buffer there are a few holograms visible. They look like 3d swirls marks. To remove this for my final step I have to use my orbital with a soft foam pad Use at a very slow speed with moderate pressure an it comes out perfect. Three things to remember 1 keep your wheel clean and use very little product so your pad does not get gunked up. 2 same as number 1. 3 same as number one. Use one wheel for polishing and one wheel for cutting and so on. Use Microsoft towels an rip the label off before using make sure to many towels to keep from putting more swirls back in the clear coat. There is so much more info to give u an not enough room here. I just touched on a little of methods. Temperature, humidity, temp. of the surface u r working on all can add to you making changes to be successful. Start out with a small area and see what works then u will know what to do to finish the job. Clay bar is important to use before any buffing. If you want to know your condition of paint, get a plastic baggy and your hand in it an touch your paint. Your won't beleive what u will feel.

 

This thread has me seriously thinking of getting a Flex. Thanks to the OP for bringing up the subject.

Good while back I bought a promotional package from 3M. It included compounds, a backup pad for a DA sander and foam waffle pad. I recently tried it on the newly painted Vette and didn't seem to really do anything. From what I'm reading here, I'm thinking the PC will work about the same.

I am primarily doing refinish work....sanding out clearcoat and buffing with a rotary. The swirls are hard to eliminate on dark colors. I'm curious how agressive the Flex can be? Will it take out sanding scratches or is that strictly a job for the rotary?

 

adams has a kit with the porter cable and all the pads and polishes that you will need. I have one from them and I love it, idiot proof.

 

Yes it wil work but it will take a lot of work an time. Rotory is the best but if u don't know how to use it bad things can happen. It is a skill that needs to be learned. Its like art work. At least for me watching an learning from a pro

 

The Flex 3401 has forced rotation and is quite a bit more powerful in design and function. You will want to keep a hand on it and use it with care as with any buffer.

There are new pads designed for random orbitals and cutting to removed sanding marks. Foam pads are not best for this type of work. Often you will want wool pads, MF pads (not bonnets --see Surbuf and Megs MF pads) and a varying degree of polishes depending on the sanding marks.

http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-da-...er-system.html

 

I use a porter cable non-orbiting buffer as well which leaves swirl marks. I find if I go over the area with NXT polish it quickly removers the swirl marks.

 

Had a PC, upgraded to the flex. Well worth the money.