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It should say which fluid is reccommended right on the cap of your master cylinder. I would stick with that in a stock application where you are not dealing with racing temperature extremes, etc.
Duckvett has given you the same bleeding procedure I would use and did use for years. It's important to start farthest from the master and work your way in from there.
Also, as has been mentioned, with the exception of DOT 5, brake fluid is some of the best paint remover out there. Be careful with it.
DSTURBD
Thank you all so much for posting and giving the information I need. I feel like I have the confidence now to go ahead and change my rotors and brakes.
There is one thing I do know and that is detailing the paint so if anyone has any questions feel free to ask me. Thank you all again Gary
Thank you all so much for posting and giving the information I need. I feel like I have the confidence now to go ahead and change my rotors and brakes.
There is one thing I do know and that is detailing the paint so if anyone has any questions feel free to ask me. Thank you all again Gary
Here's a post where I asked many of the same questions with more info on bleeding brakes and the kit you should get so you can do it by yourself:
One other thing. If you have the wife or someone else help you by pumping the brake pedal, be sure and tell them not to let off of the pedal until you say okay.
They should pump up the pedal and then hold it. You then crack open the bleeder nipple to let fluid flow. When you do this, the pedal will start to go to the floor. If the person helping you is not ready for this, they might react by letting off of the pedal which will allow air to enter the system. After you have closed the bleeder, then tell them okay and they can pump the pedal back up for the next cycle.
Be sure and check the master often as you can go through quite a bit of fluid fairly quickly.
if you are worried about overflowing the MC reservoir and dont wan't to bleed the fluid, then just pump the brakes after you do each corner. this will extend the caliper piston to its resting position. there is plenty of room in the reservoir to compress a couple calipers without worrying about overflow.
steel brake lines and new fluid would help a lot though. old fluid will make your caliper seals go bad and may even damage the caliper cylinder bore. not to mention it's much more susceptible to boiling.
Without using one of the various brake bleeder tools, the job will require two people. I suggest you ask around among your friends and find one who is familiar with the job.
Number one rule is NEVER allow the master cylinder to go completely empty!!
You will need approximately 24" of clear plastic hose that will fit tight on the bleeder and a clear bottle to catch the fluid. At this point I should remind you that brake fluid is highly caustic to paint.
With car up on jack-stands and all wheels removed, start at the brake furthest from the master cylinder, right rear. (you may hear other opinions on this point, but this is general rule of thumb) Have someone in the car pump the brakes several times and then hold the brake pedal down. Crack open the brake bleeder until brake fluid enters the clear tubing. You only need the bleeder open for one second. Close the bleeder and repeat the process until you no longer see any air bubbles in the tubing and you see a color change from the old fluid to the new.
Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master and refill as necessary.
Next go to the left rear and repeat this process.
Refill master.
Go to the right front and repeat the process.
Refill master.
Go to the left front and repeat the process.
Refill master.
I always go back and repeat the process again (2-3 bleeds at each corner) to make sure I got all the air out.
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The bleed sequence is specific for the year of your car.
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The bleed sequence is specific for the year of your car.
1997 to 2000 RR LR RF LF
2001 to 2004 RR LF LR RF
Thanks for the clarification. I have a 2000 so I did it right (on our car). But for our education, why was the sequence changed to an alternating corner-to-opposite-corner rotation?
One other thing. If you have the wife or someone else help you by pumping the brake pedal, be sure and tell them not to let off of the pedal until you say okay.
They should pump up the pedal and then hold it. You then crack open the bleeder nipple to let fluid flow. When you do this, the pedal will start to go to the floor. If the person helping you is not ready for this, they might react by letting off of the pedal which will allow air to enter the system. After you have closed the bleeder, then tell them okay and they can pump the pedal back up for the next cycle.
Be sure and check the master often as you can go through quite a bit of fluid fairly quickly.
Good luck and have fun! It's really no biggie.
DSTURBD
Ok I am on my first wheel. I got some grease that came with the brake. My ? Is do I put grease on the back of each shoe? I also put grease on the ends of the shoe. What is the torque spec for the two caliper bolts? Thank u