I've had several instances during track days of alignment changes; e.g. rear toe, front camber, front toe, thrust angle, steering wheel centering. My shop says they torque all adjustments to factory specs. Anybody else encounter this, or have recommendations (increasing torque specs or ??).
Thanks for your help,
Rich

 

Check your a-arm bushings. They tend to get displaced as they age, or when put under stress with race compound tires.

Mark.

 

First.. Start hanging out on the roadrace and autocross pages of the forum in the General section... Lots of experience there for you to soak up.

Second. The factory spec isn't tight enough, if you are using sticky tires, or see any sideways bumping (sliding and then sticking) you will find the adjusters often slip. Do a search on the roadracing and autocross page and you should find a torque that folks are using to prevent slippage. When I had my car aligned by Raftracer he said "gorilla torque these things or they will slip". I don't know how many ft lbs equals "gorilla torque" but Danny used a big cheater bar and mine haven't slipped.

Third. When you get it aligned (again) mark the excentric adjusters with a stripe of nail polish or paint. Put the stripe across the adjuster and then onto the subframe. Then if they slip you can quickly put them back to where they belong and you don't have to go to the alignment shop, and you will also know that they slipped, and something else isn't wrong.

Welcome to the crack addiction of HPDE...

 

Yea, tighten the adjuster bolts with a breaker bar with all your weight.

I learned the hard way a few years back on a newly built spec miata, first time I entered a high G corner I heard all sorts of creaks and groans and the car was handling poorly after that.

 

^ what these last three guys said.



and then there are the camber plates for dedicated track / race cars