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I was fouling out the Passenger side "ONLY" on mine and the Original AC Delco AFS 75 (GM 19178930) were still in there with 100,000+ miles on the O2 Sensors themselves -
Realize that you can even have one go bad without receiving a O2 sensor code!!! (I and others have had this happen)
Plus they have 735 RWHP Supercharged miles with Methanol Injection on them too!
I just put in the 2 new Front AC Delco AFS 75(GM 19178930) (I took pictures and will post them later this evening, these are a New and Improved design as well, instead of slices in the sensor tip they have holes around it instead) -
I have been getting the P0133 code forever. I have LTs with the rears moved to the front and the rears tuned out. What brand/part #s did you get and from where? Interested in seeing what your datalog says. I recently got an obdII reader and the O2 readings are confusing to me. Just curious what to be looking for there. TIA.
There really is NO need to move the REAR O2's to the front -
You can still use the Front O2's in the Long Tubes with no trouble at all, actually it will be much better
Headers were done on mine when I bought it. There are no rear O2s so I assumed they had been moved to the front. Just curious what I should repl mine with - pre or post O2s? Anyway to tell which ones I have? Is the voltage the same when being scanned?
I have Kooks Headers and have NO issues at all with them reaching, I have enough slack that I must zip tie them so they don't fall over onto the header!
Headers were done on mine when I bought it. There are no rear O2s so I assumed they had been moved to the front. Just curious what I should repl mine with - pre or post O2s? Anyway to tell which ones I have? Is the voltage the same when being scanned?
"IF" you want accurate tuning and better mileage then you should be using the FRONT O2 sensors in the front -
If there are no rears then more than likely they are shut off or as you mention are being run in the front!
There is no need to run the rears in the front when you CAN and SHOULD run the Front O2's in the Front O2 location!
Take a look and see which are in there now - fronts are flat style, rears are square style connector - It should be obvious which are in there just by looking -
BUT it is very simple to pull one of the O2's out and get the part number off it and then take a picture or two as well -
"IF" you want accurate tuning and better mileage then you should be using the FRONT O2 sensors in the front -
If there are no rears then more than likely they are shut off or as you mention are being run in the front!
There is no need to run the rears in the front when you CAN and SHOULD run the Front O2's in the Front O2 location!
Take a look and see which are in there now - fronts are flat style, rears are square style connector - It should be obvious which are in there just by looking -
BUT it is very simple to pull one of the O2's out and get the part number off it and then take a picture or two as well -
Get NEW Front O2's and run them in there for best results -
Thanks,Matt
Just to make sure we on the same page, you know that when people use the the rear sensor as fronts, thats it's plugged into the "Front" O2 sensor connector using "flat to square" adapters. and the rear sensor is only used to get the added length, since longtubes move the bungs further back. if you have longtubes, what brand do you have that lets use the shorter front sensor. You kinda threw me off then you mentioned the extensions, since the concept is the same as using the rears.
Just to make sure we on the same page, you know that when people use the the rear sensor as fronts, thats it's plugged into the "Front" O2 sensor connector using "flat to square" adapters. and the rear sensor is only used to get the added length, since longtubes move the bungs further back. if you have longtubes, what brand do you have that lets use the shorter front sensor. You kinda threw me off then you mentioned the extensions, since the concept is the same as using the rears.
(1) BRAND - Stock sensor from AcDelco AFS 75 - front O2 Sensor (Flat style connector)
(2) NO NEED FOR EXTENSIONS at all, they simply drop down, the sensor too has a whip/tail on it as well. The stock harness/connector simply lays down towards the new location in the LONG TUBE HEADERS (I have Kooks Headers) They do reach!
(3) If you want or feel you need to use an extension then instead of using the extra long rear cables you can buy the short extensions for the FLAT STYLE front O2's
I hope this makes sense.
Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Yeah, here comes the arguing.
I don't see any difference in the fronts and rears except for the length of the leads and the type of connector.
Some will say the rears have better heaters. They don't. Both draw the same current. I measured them.
The new ones you get from AC Delco, are the newer design planar style. They actually draw less heater current.
These new style are working just fine with my headers.
oh that note, my codes did come back, P0133/0135, but so far, looks like my fuel economy is back up, i was missing 2-3mpg. so i went ahead programmed them out of the pcm. problem solved
Just got one of these. So far pretty cool. Eventually, I hope to integrate into my Harry's Lap timer to get OBDII data into my videos. Anyway, it shows my voltage from my O2s to be between the 100mv and 900mv like it should be. I am going on the assumption that mine are OK.
Just got one of these. So far pretty cool. Eventually, I hope to integrate into my Harry's Lap timer to get OBDII data into my videos. Anyway, it shows my voltage from my O2s to be between the 100mv and 900mv like it should be. I am going on the assumption that mine are OK.
Is there a benefit to deleting the O2's from the module? I'll be installing longtubes soon.
Once you go with long tubes either you will run O2 simulators or the tuner will actually tune them out - because you usually run Hiflow cats or none and they will throw things out of whack sensing that the catalyst has failed -
Usually they will throw codes and annoying check engine light! and try to compensate with fueling and adversely effecting mileage too
You can try to deal with it, give it a shot, let us know how it goes
My buddy did this and eventually we shut them off -
is there any difference in front O2s and rear O2s other than the length of the harness? Also, I want to install wideband and A/F gauge. I have Kooks longtubes and X pipe with no cats. Installer left the rear sensors in place to plug the holes in the X pipe, I guess. So, can I use these as spares for fronts? Would installing widebands inplace of the rear O2s work, or would that be to far back to be accurate?
Just read some other posts. I was under the impression that the front O2s were still used and the back ones were deleted. It is looking, from what I read, that either you use all 4 or none. Is that correct?
Last edited by Lt. Dan M.; Jan 9, 2014 at 02:56 PM.
Reason: added question
is there any difference in front O2s and rear O2s other than the length of the harness? Also, I want to install wideband and A/F gauge. I have Kooks longtubes and X pipe with no cats. Installer left the rear sensors in place to plug the holes in the X pipe, I guess. So, can I use these as spares for fronts? Would installing widebands inplace of the rear O2s work, or would that be to far back to be accurate?
Just read some other posts. I was under the impression that the front O2s were still used and the back ones were deleted. It is looking, from what I read, that either you use all 4 or none. Is that correct?
You can install a WB sensor but a new bung has to be made. The closer to the front the better but wth the Kooks, we had to install it right before the cat drivers side as there was no space by the original 02 sensor. Works fine.
I woudnt put it in the rear because you get less of an accurate AFR reading.
You can install a WB sensor but a new bung has to be made. The closer to the front the better but wth the Kooks, we had to install it right before the cat drivers side as there was no space by the original 02 sensor. Works fine.
I woudnt put it in the rear because you get less of an accurate AFR reading.
Since I am not running catts and don't have any codes, I am guessing that my O2s are not being used (been tuned out). If that is the case I should be able to use the front bungs, I would think???
Since I am not running catts and don't have any codes, I am guessing that my O2s are not being used (been tuned out). If that is the case I should be able to use the front bungs, I would think???
No, front O2s are still being used to calculate AFR. You will need them there.
No, front O2s are still being used to calculate AFR. You will need them there.
That is what I thought, thanks for setting me straight. Curious as to why they left the rear O2s in though. Come to think of it, I had high flow carts on it when the blower, headers, X pipe were put on, and the car was tuned. I changed the X pipe to non catted shortly there after because the tuner said the boost would kill the carts within 20k miles. I don't get any O2codes though.... If the rear O2s weren't turned off wouldn't I be getting codes?
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