4:10 Gear Install
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 488
Likes: 2
From: Fort Lauderdale Florida
4:10 Gear Install
Is this a good deal? Being done by a Corvette specialty shop.
Using your existing Differential housing, this special includes:
new seals, bearings and races
Performance Motive gear of any ratio: 2.73, 2.93, 3.15, 3.42, 3.73, 3.90, 4.10
Professional Installation Services
Royal Purple Fluids
Custom HP Sales PCM/TCM Calibration
$1595
Using your existing Differential housing, this special includes:
new seals, bearings and races
Performance Motive gear of any ratio: 2.73, 2.93, 3.15, 3.42, 3.73, 3.90, 4.10
Professional Installation Services
Royal Purple Fluids
Custom HP Sales PCM/TCM Calibration
$1595
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Its pretty good. Most new diffs cost between 1,200 and 1,800. To have yours basically rebuilt, serviced, and installed, it is a fair price.
I take it you are talking about a 3.42 diff? If you have a 2.73 you are limited and cannot go to much larger gears.
I take it you are talking about a 3.42 diff? If you have a 2.73 you are limited and cannot go to much larger gears.
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Does sound pretty good if your existing differential will accommodate the lower gears.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,170
Likes: 48
From: Yuma CO
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Okay, this thread seems like the perfect place to ask this question.
I have quite a lot of experience in setting up ring and pinion gear changes, but it was in 4X4's and was many years ago. I totally understand that gear housings will only accomodate certain ranges of gear ratios, so that is not my question. I also used to own an actual Muncie Rock Crusher 4 speed (in a '55 Chevy with an L-88 spec big block, and '59 Pontiac front drop-out third member rear end) and understand the differences between it and a standard M21 (straight-cut gears as opposed to helical-cut, stronger case, etc.).
This being said, I am curious as to just what the differences are between the standard diff. housing and a "3 rib" (?) housing. I automatically understand that they are stronger and more robust, but just what are the actual differences that make them so?
I have 3.15 gears now and really like them and am not planning on building a horse-power monster, but I think that 3.42's would be a lot of fun with a basically stock drive train. I am under the impression that they will fit in the 3.15 housing but am not sure!?!?!? Can anyone help?
DSTURBD
I have quite a lot of experience in setting up ring and pinion gear changes, but it was in 4X4's and was many years ago. I totally understand that gear housings will only accomodate certain ranges of gear ratios, so that is not my question. I also used to own an actual Muncie Rock Crusher 4 speed (in a '55 Chevy with an L-88 spec big block, and '59 Pontiac front drop-out third member rear end) and understand the differences between it and a standard M21 (straight-cut gears as opposed to helical-cut, stronger case, etc.).
This being said, I am curious as to just what the differences are between the standard diff. housing and a "3 rib" (?) housing. I automatically understand that they are stronger and more robust, but just what are the actual differences that make them so?
I have 3.15 gears now and really like them and am not planning on building a horse-power monster, but I think that 3.42's would be a lot of fun with a basically stock drive train. I am under the impression that they will fit in the 3.15 housing but am not sure!?!?!? Can anyone help?
DSTURBD
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 488
Likes: 2
From: Fort Lauderdale Florida
Okay, this thread seems like the perfect place to ask this question.
I have quite a lot of experience in setting up ring and pinion gear changes, but it was in 4X4's and was many years ago. I totally understand that gear housings will only accomodate certain ranges of gear ratios, so that is not my question. I also used to own an actual Muncie Rock Crusher 4 speed (in a '55 Chevy with an L-88 spec big block, and '59 Pontiac front drop-out third member rear end) and understand the differences between it and a standard M21 (straight-cut gears as opposed to helical-cut, stronger case, etc.).
This being said, I am curious as to just what the differences are between the standard diff. housing and a "3 rib" (?) housing. I automatically understand that they are stronger and more robust, but just what are the actual differences that make them so?
I have 3.15 gears now and really like them and am not planning on building a horse-power monster, but I think that 3.42's would be a lot of fun with a basically stock drive train. I am under the impression that they will fit in the 3.15 housing but am not sure!?!?!? Can anyone help?
DSTURBD
I have quite a lot of experience in setting up ring and pinion gear changes, but it was in 4X4's and was many years ago. I totally understand that gear housings will only accomodate certain ranges of gear ratios, so that is not my question. I also used to own an actual Muncie Rock Crusher 4 speed (in a '55 Chevy with an L-88 spec big block, and '59 Pontiac front drop-out third member rear end) and understand the differences between it and a standard M21 (straight-cut gears as opposed to helical-cut, stronger case, etc.).
This being said, I am curious as to just what the differences are between the standard diff. housing and a "3 rib" (?) housing. I automatically understand that they are stronger and more robust, but just what are the actual differences that make them so?
I have 3.15 gears now and really like them and am not planning on building a horse-power monster, but I think that 3.42's would be a lot of fun with a basically stock drive train. I am under the impression that they will fit in the 3.15 housing but am not sure!?!?!? Can anyone help?
DSTURBD
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
VETSTYL,
That is a fair price in regards to the gear change out.
As long as it is done in a competent shop.
Three rib cases first came off the assembly line on the Z 06's, in the late 01 builds.
You can tell the heavy duty case by the extra ribs across the very top
(running down the middle) of the case.
Here is a picture of one.
http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=100_0370.jpg
That is a fair price in regards to the gear change out.
As long as it is done in a competent shop.
Three rib cases first came off the assembly line on the Z 06's, in the late 01 builds.
You can tell the heavy duty case by the extra ribs across the very top
(running down the middle) of the case.
Here is a picture of one.
http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=100_0370.jpg
Last edited by bumble-z; Aug 25, 2012 at 11:17 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Okay, this thread seems like the perfect place to ask this question.
I have quite a lot of experience in setting up ring and pinion gear changes, but it was in 4X4's and was many years ago. I totally understand that gear housings will only accomodate certain ranges of gear ratios, so that is not my question. I also used to own an actual Muncie Rock Crusher 4 speed (in a '55 Chevy with an L-88 spec big block, and '59 Pontiac front drop-out third member rear end) and understand the differences between it and a standard M21 (straight-cut gears as opposed to helical-cut, stronger case, etc.).
This being said, I am curious as to just what the differences are between the standard diff. housing and a "3 rib" (?) housing. I automatically understand that they are stronger and more robust, but just what are the actual differences that make them so?
I have 3.15 gears now and really like them and am not planning on building a horse-power monster, but I think that 3.42's would be a lot of fun with a basically stock drive train. I am under the impression that they will fit in the 3.15 housing but am not sure!?!?!? Can anyone help?
DSTURBD
I have quite a lot of experience in setting up ring and pinion gear changes, but it was in 4X4's and was many years ago. I totally understand that gear housings will only accomodate certain ranges of gear ratios, so that is not my question. I also used to own an actual Muncie Rock Crusher 4 speed (in a '55 Chevy with an L-88 spec big block, and '59 Pontiac front drop-out third member rear end) and understand the differences between it and a standard M21 (straight-cut gears as opposed to helical-cut, stronger case, etc.).
This being said, I am curious as to just what the differences are between the standard diff. housing and a "3 rib" (?) housing. I automatically understand that they are stronger and more robust, but just what are the actual differences that make them so?
I have 3.15 gears now and really like them and am not planning on building a horse-power monster, but I think that 3.42's would be a lot of fun with a basically stock drive train. I am under the impression that they will fit in the 3.15 housing but am not sure!?!?!? Can anyone help?
DSTURBD
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 764
Likes: 19
From: odessa FL
Just make sure they REALLY know what they are doing. These rears are a whole different ball game.I know a lot of competant driveline shops who won't touch them.
I have had a nightmare with mine for the last 6 months. Cost me > $1000 in extra labor.
I have had a nightmare with mine for the last 6 months. Cost me > $1000 in extra labor.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,315
Likes: 53
From: VERNON CT
same has happened with me. my car has been in the shop for the past 2 months because of this... they finished the first install, about 3/4 the way home i got the dreaded "whine" brought it back and they have been doing "warranty" repair now... im hoping to FINALLY have my car back tomorrow... its been a nightmare to put it nicely...
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
Likes: 180
From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
4.10 ???
be careful what you wish for.
If you're contemplating doing the ring & pinion swap yourself... I'd advise against it.
For this reason only: It's a bitch to R&R the rear carrier. Many hours and cuss words needed. If you don't "get it right" the first time.... you'll get tired quickly of removing the carrier & reinstalling it again. I'd suggest either paying someone that has specific experience with C5 carriers.... or just buy a totally new 3.42 carrier; which is exactly what I did:
www.tim-yvonne.com/mikemercury/342.htm
the 3 rib is the same on the inside (volume wise); there are additional gussets/ribs on the outside to increase strength. The 3 rib carrier started being used in MY 2001...
the "3" series carrier (not 3 "ribs"... but meaning the carrier started out with 3.15 or 3.42 gears from the factory) can handle anything, from 3.15 to 4.10 ratios.
be careful what you wish for.
For this reason only: It's a bitch to R&R the rear carrier. Many hours and cuss words needed. If you don't "get it right" the first time.... you'll get tired quickly of removing the carrier & reinstalling it again. I'd suggest either paying someone that has specific experience with C5 carriers.... or just buy a totally new 3.42 carrier; which is exactly what I did:
www.tim-yvonne.com/mikemercury/342.htm
I am curious as to just what the differences are between the standard diff. housing and a "3 rib" (?) housing. I automatically understand that they are stronger and more robust, but just what are the actual differences that make them so?
I have 3.15 gears now and really like them and am not planning on building a horse-power monster, but I think that 3.42's would be a lot of fun with a basically stock drive train. I am under the impression that they will fit in the 3.15 housing but am not sure!?!?!? Can anyone help?