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Honestly, the best advice I could give you is to talk to a performance shop and discuss what kind of goals you want for performance.
I would also advise doing A LOT of reading about different cam specs and setups because you're going to get A TON of recommendations for "this cam and that cam."
Keep in mind that everyone's tolerance is different, too. Some folks are OK with a car that idles at 1500 RPMs and makes your eyes water, while others would consider that only appropriate for the track.
If you are going to swap the cam, you will need to get the car tuned. You can kill two birds with one stone. Locate the tuners in your area and solicit their opinions. In the process you can identify which mods are right for you and who will perform the tuning.
Any help for tuner recommendations near Altoona Pa? Also this will be a streetable racecar basicaly, eventually im ditching stock seats cause they don't hold you to well, the leafs are a possibility, and the ac and interior are about all i won't touch.
Last edited by almost had 1; Oct 14, 2012 at 02:59 AM.
Is 600 hp attainable all motor without spray or boost and without building the bottom end through tuning or is the best bet adding boost, spray isnt an option, I want the power to be there all the time, not just when the tanks are full.
I would say that 500HP to the rear tires is pretty readily within reach with intake/heads/cam/headers/tune and a stock bottom end. But what you are asking for is nearly 2HP per cubic inch (at the flywheel) on a naturally aspirated engine. I'm not going to rain on your parade, but I think you're going to need to make a love connection with a builder to get there, 'cause you'll need all of the tricks and a beefed up bottom end to support it.
Is 600 hp attainable all motor without spray or boost and without building the bottom end through tuning or is the best bet adding boost, spray isnt an option, I want the power to be there all the time, not just when the tanks are full.
You will need a supercharger and several supporting mods to make 600whp on a stock LS1 block. That includes ported heads, intake (FAST), and long tube headers.
If your heart is set on 600HP, do yourself a favor and look into the forced induction option, or (much) bigger displacement. In the long run, a blower, or a crate engine would be way cheaper, less temperamental and be less prone to breakage. I'd hate to imagine the kind of RPM's you'd have to turn to get even close with 346 cubic inches, but if I recall, Comp Cams had some pretty good "what if" modeling software that you may like to play with.
I would say that 500HP to the rear tires is pretty readily within reach with intake/heads/cam/headers/tune and a stock bottom end. But what you are asking for is nearly 2HP per cubic inch (at the flywheel) on a naturally aspirated engine. I'm not going to rain on your parade, but I think you're going to need to make a love connection with a builder to get there, 'cause you'll need all of the tricks and a beefed up bottom end to support it.
YMMV
I was just curious, i figured you would have to build it. I will more likely throw an a&a on it if i absolutely need 600.
Man to be honest I'm not sure if you know what a 600 rwhp car is like
That's a ton of power in a car that's not very safe...I'm in the area 464 rwhp and its plenty
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19
I'm running a middle of the road cam with headers, heads, CAI & cat back system. After the tune was complete, I was in the 440rwhp range. I'm happy with that for now.
600hp on a stock bottom is running on borrowed time.
As far as cam size goes, here's my *opinion*
durations in the
220s = small
230s = medium
240s = large
250s = racecar
lift
<.600 = low
.600-.650 = meduim
> .650 = high
lsa's
>114 = mild almost no lope
112-114 = noticable lope, no surging/bucking with a good tune
<112 = hard lope, uncomfortable daily drivability for most normal people.
Will i have to change valves or springs with this cam? FMS-F13-114-HIGHLIFT FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 230"/232" .642"/.618" 114LSA - aggressive profile with a 2500-6800 RPM range, rough idle
Will i have to change valves or springs with this cam? FMS-F13-114-HIGHLIFT FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 230"/232" .642"/.618" 114LSA - aggressive profile with a 2500-6800 RPM range, rough idle
You will DEFINITELY have to change springs with that cam (you should upgrade springs with ANY cam though)
That cam would be pointless on stock heads that that lift though.
Do more research.. You still have a TON more reading to do before you decide on a cam.....OR talk to a performance shop and have them build your setup.
My I ask a few of you why as soon as you buy a Vette it's 600 horsepower or nothing ....prolly a real good idea to learn to drive a corvette first
Mirrors , curbs , pot holes or dumping the clutch all of which can cause trouble if your not used to the car....
Most of the members on here are in their own way telling you learn to drive the car
Sorry just wanted to vent nothing wrong with horsepower I have plenty