Down side of headers????
DOWN SIDE?
HELL YAH.
it is a sickness.
it STARTS with LT headers,
then moves to LEADOUS RIGHTOUS FOOTOUS.
Next is OPENOUS WALLETOUS
Cam, headers, BIGGER CAM
more mods, more mods
More HP and TORQUE OHH YAHHH MORE SEAT OF THE PANTS TORQUE.
Then OFF to the race track, criminey there is no excuse.
Oh wait, there is NO DOWN SIDE

Beat me to it! hahaha!

This is only partially true. I've installed close to a few dozen sets of headers on C5 and C6 Corvettes and this depends entirely on what mufflers you run. Yes it will be louder when you get on it, no matter what the mufflers are, but cruise and idle stay very close to the same if you are running a mild muffler like Corsa Touring, Corsa Sport/Pace Car, B&B Route 66, B&B PRT, Z06 Titanium, even more so with stock mufflers. I would say headers make it sound more aggressive
.Now this changes quite a bit if you have a loud muffler system to begin with
. Even with the FRC of my Z06, long tubes and Borla Stingers (straight through design), I LOVE how it sounds. There is nothing like it. Long tubes with PRTs are my second favorite.OP, if sound is something you worry about, Corsa does an amazing job at keeping the sound out the back and eliminating drone, I would not be concerned at all. Running high-flow cats help take a bit of the edge off as well. If you are OK with your car sounding more aggressive when you step on the gas (who wouldn't be?) then have no fear!
Thank you!
There are several great systems to choose from for sure. The main reason why I choose Melrose on my Z06 is because A.) I had previously installed a set on a C5 with Borla Stingers and fell in love with the sound so much that I had to have it. B.) The quality is superior than the other brands. As I mentioned before I've installed all of the top brands of headers on many C5s and C6s and always have to expand the pipes out of the box to slip into each other and even still lining up some of them can be a chore. Melrose always comes exactly the same with no need to expand the pipes for installation. The Random Tech high-flow cats is some of the best on the market and they fit unlike LG's. Not to mention they come with band style clamps that are of excellent quality. C.) They look the best out of the box, there is no argument. The ceramic coating is beautiful, top notch.
Of course there are pluses and minuses to everything. A minus of the Melrose is a 2.75" mid section pipe where LG Super Pros and ARHs are 3". I do believe the LG's will give you a few more ponies as well.
The way I break it down is:
Max HP: LG Motorsports or American Racing Headers
Best Sound/Looks: Melrose Smooth-Flow
Best Value for the $: Kooks, I want to say for only $1000 you can get a complete system with cats.
Best Quality: Melrose
Second Best Value for the $: Lg Motorsports Street Series... they will get you the same HP gains as any of the other brands, but it is a 2.5" mid-pipe and they are a bitch to install because their quality control is borderline acceptable.

I've always wanted a set of Melrose headers for my car. I have a Pro Charger set up and the car has been tuned by a previous owner. Is a tune necessary if I add headers and if I'm not mistaken that Melrose only come in 1 3/4". Is that a waste of time on a supercharged engine?
I've always wanted a set of Melrose headers for my car. I have a Pro Charger set up and the car has been tuned by a previous owner. Is a tune necessary if I add headers and if I'm not mistaken that Melrose only come in 1 3/4". Is that a waste of time on a supercharged engine?
With any major performance adders like a supercharger or heads/cam you should definitely be running a long tube header. You greatly increase cylinder pressures and temperatures and the factory manifolds don't scavenge the heat that well. A lot more power potential is granted with long tube headers as well a a big cushion of safety against knock or pre-detenation. So either way you should definitely be running long tubes, if you are willing to sacrifice a few hp there is no problem with using Melrose. And, yes, you should get it re-tuned. The nice thing is the addition of headers should not make a dramatic difference in your existing tune, so it's not like they need to remap your whole engine computer.
Down side? I got a manual and glad for it. Lot of bubbling and popping on deceleration, push in clutch alls good. On WOT car is loud. 2000 rpm can't hear it.
I had a clogged a/c drain a few years back. Cleaned out the udder but got it over the headers. Water hit the headers and rusted them. But I was able to repaint with some hi temp paint a few years back w/o and further issues.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Seriously, changing a starter on a header-equipped car is no fun. Also, all of those extra tubes under the hood increases the surface area from which exhaust heat will be radiating and hasten the demise of your starter as well as any other heat-sensitive items in the immediate area. Do yourself a favor and install a heatshield for the starter.
A tune will be required to realize the full benefit of the headers, so if you are contemplating any additional changes, do them now, so you only have to make one trip to the tuner.
Otherwise, there are some good recommendations here, for your consideration.
plastic and wiring will also get cooked. weathertight connectors will probably break after a few years if you go to unhook them.
have the ceramic coat shot on THICK inside and out. it really helps with the underhood temps. absolutely worth the $300 to have it piled on
plastic and wiring will also get cooked. weathertight connectors will probably break after a few years if you go to unhook them.
have the ceramic coat shot on THICK inside and out. it really helps with the underhood temps. absolutely worth the $300 to have it piled on
I think the majority of electrical, harness, connector problems associated with long tube headers are primarily due to the installer not properly routing the harnesses and taking the necessary precautions to ensure nothing gets close to or touches the pipes.
02 sensors should always be routed up high against the frame, above the tunnel plate, and then come down through the tunnel plate and into the exhaust. All of the cables going to the starter should be secured closer to the engine. A couple of zip-ties wrapped around the starter and cables work well. Other than that, there are no remaining connectors are harnesses that even come close to the headers, other than the metal ground strap on the drivers side (which does not matter).

Seriously, changing a starter on a header-equipped car is no fun. Also, all of those extra tubes under the hood increases the surface area from which exhaust heat will be radiating and hasten the demise of your starter as well as any other heat-sensitive items in the immediate area. Do yourself a favor and install a heatshield for the starter.
A tune will be required to realize the full benefit of the headers, so if you are contemplating any additional changes, do them now, so you only have to make one trip to the tuner.
Otherwise, there are some good recommendations here, for your consideration.
I think the majority of electrical, harness, connector problems associated with long tube headers are primarily due to the installer not properly routing the harnesses and taking the necessary precautions to ensure nothing gets close to or touches the pipes.
02 sensors should always be routed up high against the frame, above the tunnel plate, and then come down through the tunnel plate and into the exhaust. All of the cables going to the starter should be secured closer to the engine. A couple of zip-ties wrapped around the starter and cables work well. Other than that, there are no remaining connectors are harnesses that even come close to the headers, other than the metal ground strap on the drivers side (which does not matter).























