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Down side of headers????

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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Down side?

DOWN SIDE?

HELL YAH.

it is a sickness.

it STARTS with LT headers,

then moves to LEADOUS RIGHTOUS FOOTOUS.

Next is OPENOUS WALLETOUS


Cam, headers, BIGGER CAM

more mods, more mods

More HP and TORQUE OHH YAHHH MORE SEAT OF THE PANTS TORQUE.

Then OFF to the race track, criminey there is no excuse.

Oh wait, there is NO DOWN SIDE

Beat me to it! hahaha!
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #42  
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I want some
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 04:35 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by n8dogg
Actually if you order the Melrose headers straight from Melrose, I believe the whole kit with high-flow (Random Tech) cats cost $1595. Thats $200 cheaper than LG Motorsports, not sure what ARH cost is.


This is only partially true. I've installed close to a few dozen sets of headers on C5 and C6 Corvettes and this depends entirely on what mufflers you run. Yes it will be louder when you get on it, no matter what the mufflers are, but cruise and idle stay very close to the same if you are running a mild muffler like Corsa Touring, Corsa Sport/Pace Car, B&B Route 66, B&B PRT, Z06 Titanium, even more so with stock mufflers. I would say headers make it sound more aggressive .

Now this changes quite a bit if you have a loud muffler system to begin with . Even with the FRC of my Z06, long tubes and Borla Stingers (straight through design), I LOVE how it sounds. There is nothing like it. Long tubes with PRTs are my second favorite.

OP, if sound is something you worry about, Corsa does an amazing job at keeping the sound out the back and eliminating drone, I would not be concerned at all. Running high-flow cats help take a bit of the edge off as well. If you are OK with your car sounding more aggressive when you step on the gas (who wouldn't be?) then have no fear!

Thank you!



There are several great systems to choose from for sure. The main reason why I choose Melrose on my Z06 is because A.) I had previously installed a set on a C5 with Borla Stingers and fell in love with the sound so much that I had to have it. B.) The quality is superior than the other brands. As I mentioned before I've installed all of the top brands of headers on many C5s and C6s and always have to expand the pipes out of the box to slip into each other and even still lining up some of them can be a chore. Melrose always comes exactly the same with no need to expand the pipes for installation. The Random Tech high-flow cats is some of the best on the market and they fit unlike LG's. Not to mention they come with band style clamps that are of excellent quality. C.) They look the best out of the box, there is no argument. The ceramic coating is beautiful, top notch.

Of course there are pluses and minuses to everything. A minus of the Melrose is a 2.75" mid section pipe where LG Super Pros and ARHs are 3". I do believe the LG's will give you a few more ponies as well.

The way I break it down is:

Max HP: LG Motorsports or American Racing Headers

Best Sound/Looks: Melrose Smooth-Flow

Best Value for the $: Kooks, I want to say for only $1000 you can get a complete system with cats.

Best Quality: Melrose

Second Best Value for the $: Lg Motorsports Street Series... they will get you the same HP gains as any of the other brands, but it is a 2.5" mid-pipe and they are a bitch to install because their quality control is borderline acceptable.

Great Post!

I've always wanted a set of Melrose headers for my car. I have a Pro Charger set up and the car has been tuned by a previous owner. Is a tune necessary if I add headers and if I'm not mistaken that Melrose only come in 1 3/4". Is that a waste of time on a supercharged engine?
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 05:28 PM
  #44  
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. I have my car slammed and 1 7/8" with 3 xpipe and no scraping. Still tucks under very nicely. the oil filter hangs lower. Only downside that I can think of is very ****** gas mileage do to the fact I LOVE the way they sound with my B&B prt's I have that pop sound to. I hold my gears long and love to hear it at wot. Before I would just cruise and get 17-18 in city. Now 12-14 or less depending how I drive. Highway still chugs out 28-31mpg and no drone.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:19 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Stomp'N'Go
Great Post!

I've always wanted a set of Melrose headers for my car. I have a Pro Charger set up and the car has been tuned by a previous owner. Is a tune necessary if I add headers and if I'm not mistaken that Melrose only come in 1 3/4". Is that a waste of time on a supercharged engine?

With any major performance adders like a supercharger or heads/cam you should definitely be running a long tube header. You greatly increase cylinder pressures and temperatures and the factory manifolds don't scavenge the heat that well. A lot more power potential is granted with long tube headers as well a a big cushion of safety against knock or pre-detenation. So either way you should definitely be running long tubes, if you are willing to sacrifice a few hp there is no problem with using Melrose. And, yes, you should get it re-tuned. The nice thing is the addition of headers should not make a dramatic difference in your existing tune, so it's not like they need to remap your whole engine computer.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #46  
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youll probably get on the gas a lot more reducing gas mileage
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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I love the pop as Ur slowing down
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:18 PM
  #48  
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I got TPIS long tubes probably 10 years ago. Car is a 2000. Best performance investment I made. I also went with high flow cats. You look thru them and all you see is some tissue type paper, you see light. So I have the headers, hi flow cats, X pipe and corsa indy exhaust. Really no restrictions in the system.

Down side? I got a manual and glad for it. Lot of bubbling and popping on deceleration, push in clutch alls good. On WOT car is loud. 2000 rpm can't hear it.

I had a clogged a/c drain a few years back. Cleaned out the udder but got it over the headers. Water hit the headers and rusted them. But I was able to repaint with some hi temp paint a few years back w/o and further issues.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
. I have my car slammed and 1 7/8" with 3 xpipe and no scraping. Still tucks under very nicely. the oil filter hangs lower. Only downside that I can think of is very ****** gas mileage do to the fact I LOVE the way they sound with my B&B prt's I have that pop sound to. I hold my gears long and love to hear it at wot. Before I would just cruise and get 17-18 in city. Now 12-14 or less depending how I drive. Highway still chugs out 28-31mpg and no drone.
What brand u runnin?!
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:14 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by tbrent
What brand u runnin?!
Stainless works. They are a freaking work of art. Sucks you can't see them. I think bill c runs them and had some pics up. Not a lot of peoplerun them here. I went from 311 to 348 with them. Had a tune already from ecs. Did a review awhile back on them. I love em
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 03:09 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Tron Z
Yes, but if your starter could only talk ...
Seriously, changing a starter on a header-equipped car is no fun. Also, all of those extra tubes under the hood increases the surface area from which exhaust heat will be radiating and hasten the demise of your starter as well as any other heat-sensitive items in the immediate area. Do yourself a favor and install a heatshield for the starter.

A tune will be required to realize the full benefit of the headers, so if you are contemplating any additional changes, do them now, so you only have to make one trip to the tuner.

Otherwise, there are some good recommendations here, for your consideration.
was just thinking this. the starter will have a shorter life, that's a given

plastic and wiring will also get cooked. weathertight connectors will probably break after a few years if you go to unhook them.

have the ceramic coat shot on THICK inside and out. it really helps with the underhood temps. absolutely worth the $300 to have it piled on
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 09:51 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by racebum
was just thinking this. the starter will have a shorter life, that's a given

plastic and wiring will also get cooked. weathertight connectors will probably break after a few years if you go to unhook them.

have the ceramic coat shot on THICK inside and out. it really helps with the underhood temps. absolutely worth the $300 to have it piled on
I'd have to agree and disagree. The passenger side long tube would be closer to the starter compared to factory exhaust, so maybe it could shorten the life of the starter. Then again, I can't say I have ever seen or read about any C5 with a bad starter due to the long tube header. I have seen several starters bad on factory stock C5s. But what about the factory mid-pipes that have the "pup-cats". Those sure as heck would get much hotter than any header pipe and they are located darn close to the starter. Plus, the factory catalytic converters are humongous compared to any high-flow cat that comes with the long tube kits, I'd imagine they get much hotter than high-flow cats and the 02 sensor harness is right there.

I think the majority of electrical, harness, connector problems associated with long tube headers are primarily due to the installer not properly routing the harnesses and taking the necessary precautions to ensure nothing gets close to or touches the pipes.

02 sensors should always be routed up high against the frame, above the tunnel plate, and then come down through the tunnel plate and into the exhaust. All of the cables going to the starter should be secured closer to the engine. A couple of zip-ties wrapped around the starter and cables work well. Other than that, there are no remaining connectors are harnesses that even come close to the headers, other than the metal ground strap on the drivers side (which does not matter).
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicago1
Stainless works. They are a freaking work of art. Sucks you can't see them. I think bill c runs them and had some pics up. Not a lot of peoplerun them here. I went from 311 to 348 with them. Had a tune already from ecs. Did a review awhile back on them. I love em
If you have such a high opinion of them then to me they must be the goods... Thanks Chi town
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 04:33 PM
  #54  
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I know Kooks has sold more corvette headers than I can count and beyond the thight space you have to install them into I have never heard anyone say "I wish I never did headers". I also agree that headers are the gateway mod. Once you put them on you start looking for the next mod, and the next. I have header on all of my cars except one and as soon as they are done in development it will have headers too.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Tron Z
Yes, but if your starter could only talk ...
Seriously, changing a starter on a header-equipped car is no fun. Also, all of those extra tubes under the hood increases the surface area from which exhaust heat will be radiating and hasten the demise of your starter as well as any other heat-sensitive items in the immediate area. Do yourself a favor and install a heatshield for the starter.

A tune will be required to realize the full benefit of the headers, so if you are contemplating any additional changes, do them now, so you only have to make one trip to the tuner.

Otherwise, there are some good recommendations here, for your consideration.
Are there commercial starter head shields available, or are they home fabricated?
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by n8dogg
I'd have to agree and disagree. The passenger side long tube would be closer to the starter compared to factory exhaust, so maybe it could shorten the life of the starter. Then again, I can't say I have ever seen or read about any C5 with a bad starter due to the long tube header. I have seen several starters bad on factory stock C5s. But what about the factory mid-pipes that have the "pup-cats". Those sure as heck would get much hotter than any header pipe and they are located darn close to the starter. Plus, the factory catalytic converters are humongous compared to any high-flow cat that comes with the long tube kits, I'd imagine they get much hotter than high-flow cats and the 02 sensor harness is right there.

I think the majority of electrical, harness, connector problems associated with long tube headers are primarily due to the installer not properly routing the harnesses and taking the necessary precautions to ensure nothing gets close to or touches the pipes.

02 sensors should always be routed up high against the frame, above the tunnel plate, and then come down through the tunnel plate and into the exhaust. All of the cables going to the starter should be secured closer to the engine. A couple of zip-ties wrapped around the starter and cables work well. Other than that, there are no remaining connectors are harnesses that even come close to the headers, other than the metal ground strap on the drivers side (which does not matter).
This man speaks the truth. My harness was cooked!!! I mean one minute I was driving the next minute car is dead. Code popped up as crank position sensor. Took off the passenger side header and sure enough all 3 wires were fried along with the two "low oil sensor" connector. When the headers got installed they didn't route them behind the starter. So after awhile( 18 months) they got hard brittle then finally let go. So far so good on the starter. I redid the wiring and routed them correctly.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 06:49 PM
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A lot more heat will radiate into the cabin, and you right leg will be sweating in the summer heat! Simple solution if this is an issue for you: tunnel plate.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TorchRedRocket
A lot more heat will radiate into the cabin, and you right leg will be sweating in the summer heat! Simple solution if this is an issue for you: tunnel plate.
I haven't noticed any extra heat in the cabin...
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dizzysn
I haven't noticed any extra heat in the cabin...
Neither have I.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
I think getting to the starter with LT's is tough to do if you ever need to.
it's impossible to get the starter off without taking the header off. I know..just did it yesterday :P
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