Everytime you get gas, jack it up, and change the oil.

 

Race cars get fuel way before that.....

Read my comments. Those changes are for using race oil in a race car.

 

I'd consider this relatively new offering from AMSOIL:
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)

This oil was designed by AMSOIL for flat tappet cam engines which require high ZDDP, but unlike racing oils it has some detergents and AMSOIL recommends it for 3-5k oil change intervals (or one year whichever is less). This oil is very similar to the racing oil I use at the track:
AMSOIL Dominator Synthetic 10w30 Racing Motor Oil (Product Code RD30QT)
(zinc – 1575 ppm, phosphorus 1474 ppm)

Similar to the numbers listed above, I change this race oil at about 500 mile intervals.

For a modded street car, or dual use street track car, I'd go with the Z-ROD if you opt for AMSOIL, else I'd use the race oil I use.

FYI - I completely agree with Anthony's original post that off the shelf API SN spec oil which have an 800 ppm limit phosphorus are probably not the best choice for heavily modded or track driven cars.

More than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.

 

Let's look a bit more in depth on why these 'micro brew' oils are so much better than say a normal Mobile 1.

Within the U.S. right now you may think you only have the choice of conventional and synthetic engine oils to choose from. While that is partially true the base stock that the oil is produced from can also radically change the properties of the oil itself, synthetic or not.

Within the Synthetic oils you have three classifications, Group 3, Group 4, and Group 5 oils. Group 3 oils are re-refined petroleum products and are the least expensive until recently they could not be classified as synthetic. Group 4 oils are PAO oils (Poly-Alpha-Olefine) and they are a synthesized petroleum product that has better protection against heat, oxidation, and better flow at low temperatures. The draw back to this oil is they need plenty of oil pressure to provide an effective protection film on the parts they protect. Both Group 3 and Group 4 oils are mineral based.

Lastly we have the Group 5 oils, which are Ester based (diester, polyoesters, and complex esters) which are vegetable and animal based

Red Line and Motul engine oils are currently the only two engine oils you can obtain that start from a Synthetic Ester base. This Ester base forms and electro-chemical bond with your engine components so there is an even less chance of metal to metal contact on cold start up or low oil pressure conditions. This bond is something that the Group 3 and Group 4 oils do not have because of their base material make up even if they have a higher level of ZDDP additives. The other big benefit of an Ester based oil is that they have very little in the way of deposits if they do burn under extreme conditions so there is no build up inside hot engine parts, and this is especially important for those running turbos on their cars.


Further reading on Esters
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...94#Post1252272

 

Very good info Anthony ! I'm learning a bunch about oil lately..

toque

 

So....I should use this in my near stock 02 C5?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2&pcid=21

and this in my highly modified 98 C5 and Eagle Talon TsiAWD?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=4&pcid=21

It cost over twice as much as Mobil 1 but if it saves my engines it would be worth it.

 

I run 5w30 in my Z during the winter and 10-40 during the summer.

as for the modified cars...depends on how they are used and what you see for oil temps.

 

Anthony:

Do you guys stock the Redline 10w30 at LG's at all times ?

Toque

 

break in ?

I recently bot a 2003 Anni and I do not know if it was" broken in" . Is it too late to worry about now? currently about 8000mi on stock LS1

 

I just changed to Redline 5-30 today based on forum recommendations and I don't track/race my 2000 vert.

Maybe someday.

Shipped from Summit Racing; it's cheaper if you buy the gallon containers.

 

Hot, too damn hot actually. Both cars have very large intercoolers in front of the radiators.

The 98 has vents on the hood but had no air deflector underneath the car. It does now but just the middle one and it is cut just a tad so it would fit. She has a very large radiator and a 160 degree thermo. She runs okay but if it's a hot day and I use the AC, doh!

The Talon has no hood vents but I did fabricate a air deflector and a air scoop for underneath the car. That helped but did not solve the problem. She has a large radiator and I have it programmed that both fans come on. Though I don't want to, I have to face the fact I need to cut the front bumper for two reasons; uncover more of the intercooler and get more air to the radiator.
Oh, almost forgot, I drive them like they should be driven, as if they were stolen