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I'm about to install an oil cooler in my 03 ZO6 and want to know what temp the oil thermostat should open. On a regular travel day, I max out at 205. The Canton themostat opens at 220, others open at 200 and 180. Is 180 too cold?
I track the car and on those days I'm seeing temps of 290 plus.
Engine oil needs to get higher then the boiling point of water, approximately 212 degrees fahrenheit to get rid of condensation.
As cool as possible, so long as it gets above 212F periodically.
Those of you who live at higher elevations are likely already aware that with lower atmospheric pressure, water will boil at lower temperatures.
oil should be above 212 for street driving and 250-260 for track days.
Yikes! I'd better start taping up my oil cooler entirely then when I drive on the steet. I've driven around with it no more than 155 cruising on the highway for periods of time. I usually have a hard time getting it over 180ish on the street. I've already been taping it at least halfway when not tracking.
At Sebring the other week I was hitting 260's oil.
Why would the oil temperature need to reach the boiling point of water in order to get rid of the trace amounts of water in the oil due to condensation? You realize water will vaporize even if the temperature isn't 100 degrees C, yes?
Why would the oil temperature need to reach the boiling point of water in order to get rid of the trace amounts of water in the oil due to condensation? You realize water will vaporize even if the temperature isn't 100 degrees C, yes?
...especially when those trace amounts come into contact with hot metal surfaces.
I sent my oil to Blackstone Labs for analysis. I too never see anything above 205 even when driving with a heavier foot. However, I had no moisture content in my oil. I'd really recommend Blackstone Labs, send in your oil and get it checked. Cheap insurance, and it is fun to see what is going on with the engine and oil.
I sent my oil to Blackstone Labs for analysis. I too never see anything above 205 even when driving with a heavier foot. However, I had no moisture content in my oil. I'd really recommend Blackstone Labs, send in your oil and get it checked. Cheap insurance, and it is fun to see what is going on with the engine and oil.
I think I might very well do that. I have went basically a year and a half and just now hit 3000 miles from the last oil change.
Some have said change the oil when the DIC says to or 12 months which ever comes first and I would like to know if I see anything come up from their testing considering I have went well over a year since last oil change even though my DIC says 43% life still left.
I have had oil from 3 cars analyzed at Blackstone. One car, my Miata, had 2 year old oil in it, but only about 1800 miles at most. The oil was perfect. They told me that time makes no difference, and suggested I extend to 3 years next time. My Z06 had about 2,000 miles on it, and their analysis said there is no reason to change it. My DIC says 78% with that mileage on it incidentally, and the oil is 1 year old now. The other car, my wife's daily driver, had 13,000 miles on it (Amsoil Signature Series). The analysis showed plenty of life left in the oil, and they suggested I go another 2,000 miles next time before changing it. I made a syringe based extractor to pull oil out of the dipstick tubes now, so I'll just send in samples before changing it.
I have an aluminum cover to put over the oil cooler in cold weather.
The hotter oil of 212-220 boils out any water or water vapor that might be mixed in.
Oil temps on track of 250-260 is great. Too much hotter and there can be internal break down or bearings start break down.
Wouldn't time at temperature also matter to the issue of eliminating condensation? 20 min at 180F probably does something to the moisture if 5 min at 210 does the trick. I don't see why 210 is a magic number except to light the cats for emissions. I thought 150 or so was the number for reasonable lubrication by the oil.
Wouldn't time at temperature also matter to the issue of eliminating condensation? 20 min at 180F probably does something to the moisture if 5 min at 210 does the trick. I don't see why 210 is a magic number except to light the cats for emissions. I thought 150 or so was the number for reasonable lubrication by the oil.
That's what I thought too Andy. The only time I run around 150 is extended trips on the interstate, and that's usually on the way to a track event where temps will be in the mid 200 range for the weekend.
Wouldn't time at temperature also matter to the issue of eliminating condensation? 20 min at 180F probably does something to the moisture if 5 min at 210 does the trick. I don't see why 210 is a magic number except to light the cats for emissions. I thought 150 or so was the number for reasonable lubrication by the oil.
When your oil is at 200 degrees, that doesn't mean your engine internals are also at 200 degrees. The oil temperature is an equilibrium between the cooling it receives and the heat from the engine. Engine parts are much hotter than 200 degrees. Contact with these parts will be enough to evaporate any residual water that may be in the oil (which is very very little, unless you've recently driven into a lake).
In addition, the idea that some people seem to have about how water MUST reach 212 in order to evaporate is comical. When I stepped into my shower this morning, the tub and shower liner were dry. But after my shower yesterday they were wet. Does this mean someone is coming into my bathroom when I'm not looking and heating my tub to 212???!?!?
The notion that residual water will not evaporate from oil if the temperature isn't 212 is moronic.
I installed the DRM kit with the Setrab 25 role cooler on my 02 Z06. My car see road course use along with some street driving.
I just wrap the cooler with aluminum foil which gets me in the 200 range on the street. When on track I remove the foil and see 265 max temps on 100 degree days in So Cal.
I don't have a thermostat on my system.
I also use Blackstone and do oil changes at an interval of 5 track days (Twenty - 25 min run sessions) and 3k street miles. I have two report cycles in and all reads great #'s.
Hope this helps,
Ed
Last edited by doveboat; Nov 4, 2012 at 11:35 PM.
Reason: grammer