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Could someone with cam knowledge explain what to look for when researching cam specs and the difference they make? I'm looking for a streetable cam that sounds great, produces good power throughout the rpm range without suffering from things like surge, idle problems ect...is this imposible to achieve?
Comp, Crane, Isky (and no doubt others) all have detailed information on their sites. As mentioned, this and other forums can also be a good source. Keep in mind, however, that most of the folks posting on these forums will be of the, "Too much is almost enough" variety. If yours is a street car, less is usually more when it comes to camshafts!
If you change the cam, you will need a tuner. Do your homework ahead of time (so that you can have an informed conversation) and then shop for a tuner and ask for his suggestions, based on the intended use of the vehicle.
I talked to Ron at vengeance in GA and he suggested a couple cams and i decided to go with his vrx5 and am very happy with it. Ls1tech have tons of threads on cams there for you to read. Good luck
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
Keep in mind that too big a cam will hurt your torque.
If you plan to run 5000-7000 rpm on the street then a big cam is for you.
If you want to keep your torque up for off the line launches, and keep it drivable then maybe a mid sized cam is for you.
I'm running a LG G5X1-E cam (590ish/230ish/114). Designed as a torque cam, and good for a blower if I decided to in the future. Super easy drivers cam. I'm pulling 471/441 right now at the rear wheels. Not mad for a mid sized cam.
The car has all the normal bolt on's. long tubes, cai,full exhaust, I drive it a couple of times a week around town. Never to far just out to eat or shopping.
The car has all the normal bolt on's. long tubes, cai,full exhaust, I drive it a couple of times a week around town. Never to far just out to eat or shopping.
Thanks...No sense camming beyond the heads ability to flow. The 243's are very good heads but they have limitations. IMHO I'd stay with something like a 224-228 114 +2. If you have a little more tolerance to idle quality, have it cut with a 112 +2 LSA. You'll get better low end response. It's proven cam that will work well with your stock heads. With a good tune it will idle well. You'll be able to tell it has a cam but it won't shake the ***** off the dash. Should you decide to do heads down the road, it will continue to work well. I have several good friends that run that cam with headds and they are both in the 435-445RWHP range and the cars drive extremely well.
I'm a firm believer that you should determine your goals and use the smallest cam possible to get you there.
Thanks wkmcd! So could I call comp cam and give them those numbers and they will know what I'm talking about. Also please tell me if I'm missing anything as far as the parts needed to complete this mod.
Cam
Pushrods
Rocker arms
Replace oil pump while I'm there
Gaskets
Tune
timing chain
Also I was thinking about ls7 lifters but then the heads would have to come off. I just want it to be reliable and change out any parts while I have the car apart.
Thanks wkmcd! So could I call comp cam and give them those numbers and they will know what I'm talking about. Also please tell me if I'm missing anything as far as the parts needed to complete this mod.
Cam
Pushrods
Rocker arms
Replace oil pump while I'm there
Gaskets
Tune
timing chain
Also I was thinking about ls7 lifters but then the heads would have to come off. I just want it to be reliable and change out any parts while I have the car apart.
The simplest thing to do is contact a vendor like Texas Speed for the package. You're list doesn't include valve springs which are a must. Go with dual springs. Think about a Melling oil pump. It's a few dollars more but better than the stocker. The trunion upgrade is a good idea for the rockers..cheap insurance against loosing needle bearings.
If you do decide to do the LS7 lifters and always replace the lifter trays while you're in there. Use Cometic .040 head gaskets and you'll pickup some conpression. Stock gaskets are .053 thick.
I have personal experience with England Green and would highly recommend them. They are located in Texas. Steven is very helpful and always willing to answer questions to assure you get the right cam for you. For me, it was a larger cam than most would probably not want. Yet, I was willing to sacrifice a few things others find more important, never launch the car from stop or low RPM's, and have 4:10 gears to eliminate the sluggishness a larger cam can cause in the lower RPM range.
Last edited by Water_Walker; Nov 11, 2012 at 10:35 PM.
Thanks! That is the simplest way of doing it. My father is a mechanic at a gmc dealer so ill get him to get all the basic stuff like gaskets ect..but use the website for the cam shaft package. Now I have to figure out the best package for what I'm trying to achieve. I want it to "hit a lick" at idle, I want it to produce between 400-430hp. the car already dynoed 366hp/365tq so I think that is possible. I don't use the car as a daily driver so I can push the envelope a little, just don't want it so radical that its possible to tear stuff up when I get on it pretty hard. Will I be able to get a cam that sounds good at idle, still produces low end torque and is reliable?
Thanks! That is the simplest way of doing it. My father is a mechanic at a gmc dealer so ill get him to get all the basic stuff like gaskets ect..but use the website for the cam shaft package. Now I have to figure out the best package for what I'm trying to achieve. I want it to "hit a lick" at idle, I want it to produce between 400-430hp. the car already dynoed 366hp/365tq so I think that is possible. I don't use the car as a daily driver so I can push the envelope a little, just don't want it so radical that its possible to tear stuff up when I get on it pretty hard. Will I be able to get a cam that sounds good at idle, still produces low end torque and is reliable?