LS7 clutch swap
Corvette Cowboy
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,852
Likes: 23
From: Cen-Cal Broke A$$ Kalifornia
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 21
From: east taunton ma
Put the new fly wheel and clutch in last night. Ended up loosing the bell housing bolts to gain enough room to slide the new stuff in. First we tried to bang in the dowl pins on the new fly wheel but still didnt have enough room. It wasn't to bad getting the bell housing loose.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 29,937
Likes: 22
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Cruise-In 1-2-3-4-5 Veteran
Could you see the rear main seal with the old clutch out?
I just had this project done for me, by a shop, and they charged $1750 to:
- Remove the torque tube
- Replace the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate with the LS7 parts
- Replace the old MC, SC and PB with LS6 parts
- Install the Pfadt transmission brace
- put it all back together
Things I didn't do, but were recommended:
- new rear main seal
- remote bleeder
Something to watch for. When everything is all back together, the pedal effort is going to be stiffer (obvious) and the new engagement point will be VERY close to the floor initially. I'm talking "start to liftSTALL!" It does come up after some driving though.
I'm noticing the car seems to be smoother vibration-wise (the flywheel and clutch are a few pounds heavier) and the car seems to dig harder in 2nd gear for whatever reason.
I just had this project done for me, by a shop, and they charged $1750 to:
- Remove the torque tube
- Replace the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate with the LS7 parts
- Replace the old MC, SC and PB with LS6 parts
- Install the Pfadt transmission brace
- put it all back together
Things I didn't do, but were recommended:
- new rear main seal
- remote bleeder
Something to watch for. When everything is all back together, the pedal effort is going to be stiffer (obvious) and the new engagement point will be VERY close to the floor initially. I'm talking "start to liftSTALL!" It does come up after some driving though.
I'm noticing the car seems to be smoother vibration-wise (the flywheel and clutch are a few pounds heavier) and the car seems to dig harder in 2nd gear for whatever reason.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,119
Likes: 156
From: Huntington tx
Put the new fly wheel and clutch in last night. Ended up loosing the bell housing bolts to gain enough room to slide the new stuff in. First we tried to bang in the dowl pins on the new fly wheel but still didnt have enough room. It wasn't to bad getting the bell housing loose.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 21
From: east taunton ma
Something to watch for. When everything is all back together, the pedal effort is going to be stiffer (obvious) and the new engagement point will be VERY close to the floor initially. I'm talking "start to liftSTALL!" It does come up after some driving though.
I'm noticing the car seems to be smoother vibration-wise (the flywheel and clutch are a few pounds heavier) and the car seems to dig harder in 2nd gear for whatever reason.
Thank you for the heads up.
I'm noticing the car seems to be smoother vibration-wise (the flywheel and clutch are a few pounds heavier) and the car seems to dig harder in 2nd gear for whatever reason.
Thank you for the heads up.
Could you see the rear main seal with the old clutch out?
Same here.
I'm waiting on O rings and axle seals to come in so I can get it all back together.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 21
From: east taunton ma
So my Axle seals and O rings wont be hear to friday so we put the torque tube and tranny in last night.
I also lower the car finally. Here is a picture of the front lowering screw backed all the way out then turned in 1 turn.
I have a new question. The exhaust bolts broke when we took out the exhaust and I cant get them hot enough under the car to get out. If I take the manifolds off the motor I can't see the sense of putting stock ones back on. Should I just order up a set of LT headers? Or maybe find a set of ZO6 exhaust manifolds. I just hate the thought of spending another 2 grand but I know I'll be kicking myself later on for not doing it now.
I also lower the car finally. Here is a picture of the front lowering screw backed all the way out then turned in 1 turn.
I have a new question. The exhaust bolts broke when we took out the exhaust and I cant get them hot enough under the car to get out. If I take the manifolds off the motor I can't see the sense of putting stock ones back on. Should I just order up a set of LT headers? Or maybe find a set of ZO6 exhaust manifolds. I just hate the thought of spending another 2 grand but I know I'll be kicking myself later on for not doing it now.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,754
Likes: 380
From: South Florida FL
I have a new question. The exhaust bolts broke when we took out the exhaust and I cant get them hot enough under the car to get out. If I take the manifolds off the motor I can't see the sense of putting stock ones back on. Should I just order up a set of LT headers? Or maybe find a set of ZO6 exhaust manifolds. I just hate the thought of spending another 2 grand but I know I'll be kicking myself later on for not doing it now.
and I'll def get the bleeder, I regret not getting one when I did my clutch. because I pretty impossible to bleed when the car is back together.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
So my Axle seals and O rings wont be hear to friday so we put the torque tube and tranny in last night.
I also lower the car finally. Here is a picture of the front lowering screw backed all the way out then turned in 1 turn.
I have a new question. The exhaust bolts broke when we took out the exhaust and I cant get them hot enough under the car to get out. If I take the manifolds off the motor I can't see the sense of putting stock ones back on. Should I just order up a set of LT headers? Or maybe find a set of ZO6 exhaust manifolds. I just hate the thought of spending another 2 grand but I know I'll be kicking myself later on for not doing it now.
I also lower the car finally. Here is a picture of the front lowering screw backed all the way out then turned in 1 turn.
I have a new question. The exhaust bolts broke when we took out the exhaust and I cant get them hot enough under the car to get out. If I take the manifolds off the motor I can't see the sense of putting stock ones back on. Should I just order up a set of LT headers? Or maybe find a set of ZO6 exhaust manifolds. I just hate the thought of spending another 2 grand but I know I'll be kicking myself later on for not doing it now.
I put long tubes on mine within a year of ownership.
I wanted an increase of HP & Torque.
If your satisfied with what you have (HP & Torque) , I'd pull the cast Iron one's off & try to get the studs out, put new ones in & put back together.
If your starter should go out on you, you would have your hands full with long tubes installed .
Not so with the stock exhaust.
PS.
Nice job your doing there off of stands.
It's nice that you are taking the time to share with pictures.
One Question.
When you slid your tranny into your pilot, did you have resistance of the T/out hitting the fingers of the P/plate.. to get your bolts started?
Last edited by bumble-z; Jan 24, 2013 at 12:31 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 21
From: east taunton ma
In for final pics and review of the LS7. I am most likely going to do my clutch within next 12 months. I want to hear the reviews so I can decide what clutch to upgrade to.
If your satisfied with what you have (HP & Torque) , I'd pull the cast Iron one's off & try to get the studs out, put new ones in & put back together.
I wanted an increase of HP & Torque.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
I went w/ LG Long tube, 1-3/4" Pro's w/ their 3" x pipe. Ti cat back.
Put them on in 2004.
Through out the years since install, the car has dyno'd 390 HP @ the rear wheels.
Always Dyno'd on the same Mustang Dyno machine
Engine is still completely stock.
I could feel a seat of the pants difference when I did the install...but I also installed the Vara Ram CAI @ the same time.
Put them on in 2004.
Through out the years since install, the car has dyno'd 390 HP @ the rear wheels.
Always Dyno'd on the same Mustang Dyno machine
Engine is still completely stock.
I could feel a seat of the pants difference when I did the install...but I also installed the Vara Ram CAI @ the same time.
Last edited by bumble-z; Jan 28, 2013 at 12:34 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 23,220
Likes: 3
From: HOUSTON
St. Jude Donor '06 thru '15, '19
great job and I would say go for some headers , was my first mod. Headers, MayhemII cam , high flow cats, cut outs open I making 435 RWHP , stock heads. Keep up the good work !
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 21
From: east taunton ma
Axle seals and O rings showed up yesterday. Installed them then bolted up the rear end to the tranny. Then it was time to change out fuel pumps, since I didn't plan on changing the fuel pumps I showed up with a 3/4 tank of fuel.
First we drained the gas by undoing the schraider valve and attaching a 3/8ths fuel line and ran it in to a gas can. I pulled the fuel pump relay and jumped from the positive to #5(where the relay used to be) on the fuse panel. We also lowered the front of the car a little to keep remaining gas in the front of the tanks. Still had some gas drain out when we un did the fuel pumps. Heres a picture of my friend changing the driver side. It is the hardest side to do.
you can see the rear end installed in the back of the picture. Now the new one going in.
Then we install the the rear suspension bolted everything up put tires on and rolled outside to make way for another car coming in his garage for some emergency brake work.
Ill bring the car back in and put back up on stands tonight or tomorrow and start preping for the LG long tubes to be installed.
Sorry the pictures are sideways I rotated them on photobucket but they show up sideways here.
First we drained the gas by undoing the schraider valve and attaching a 3/8ths fuel line and ran it in to a gas can. I pulled the fuel pump relay and jumped from the positive to #5(where the relay used to be) on the fuse panel. We also lowered the front of the car a little to keep remaining gas in the front of the tanks. Still had some gas drain out when we un did the fuel pumps. Heres a picture of my friend changing the driver side. It is the hardest side to do.
you can see the rear end installed in the back of the picture. Now the new one going in.
Then we install the the rear suspension bolted everything up put tires on and rolled outside to make way for another car coming in his garage for some emergency brake work.
Ill bring the car back in and put back up on stands tonight or tomorrow and start preping for the LG long tubes to be installed.
Sorry the pictures are sideways I rotated them on photobucket but they show up sideways here.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
You won't need to pull the starter or either valve covers.
Buy a set of LS/1 GM steel exhaust manifold gaskets.
Use your original exhaust manifold bolts.
Put anti seize on your air tube bolts & exhaust header bolts.
Remove your spark plugs, altenator & air tubes.
Makes it easier to install, if your up off the ground around 24" & loosen both motor mount nuts & use flat board under the oil pan in order to lift (one side) of the motor with a jack .
This will give you an extra amount of room to slide them in.
Cover all wires & sensors that seem at all close to the pipes, with heat wrap.
Buy a set of LS/1 GM steel exhaust manifold gaskets.
Use your original exhaust manifold bolts.
Put anti seize on your air tube bolts & exhaust header bolts.
Remove your spark plugs, altenator & air tubes.
Makes it easier to install, if your up off the ground around 24" & loosen both motor mount nuts & use flat board under the oil pan in order to lift (one side) of the motor with a jack .
This will give you an extra amount of room to slide them in.
Cover all wires & sensors that seem at all close to the pipes, with heat wrap.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 21
From: east taunton ma
Just out of curiosity... why did you change out the fuel pumps if there was nothing wrong with them ?
You won't need to pull the starter or either valve covers.
Buy a set of LS/1 GM steel exhaust manifold gaskets.
Use your original exhaust manifold bolts.
Put anti seize on your air tube bolts & exhaust header bolts.
Remove your spark plugs, altenator & air tubes.
Makes it easier to install, if your up off the ground around 24" & loosen both motor mount nuts & use flat board under the oil pan in order to lift (one side) of the motor with a jack .
This will give you an extra amount of room to slide them in.
Cover all wires & sensors that seem at all close to the pipes, with heat wrap.
Buy a set of LS/1 GM steel exhaust manifold gaskets.
Use your original exhaust manifold bolts.
Put anti seize on your air tube bolts & exhaust header bolts.
Remove your spark plugs, altenator & air tubes.
Makes it easier to install, if your up off the ground around 24" & loosen both motor mount nuts & use flat board under the oil pan in order to lift (one side) of the motor with a jack .
This will give you an extra amount of room to slide them in.
Cover all wires & sensors that seem at all close to the pipes, with heat wrap.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
I went w/ a 160 stat, that is what ECS (East Coast Supercharging) suggested doing prior to tune.
I like the stat that is complete with the housing.
Make sure to have your fan settings reprogrammed, when you have your tune done.
Also could also have them program your "skip shift", so you can get rid of the by pass mod.
It would also be a good time to set the red line (just a tad) higher.
I changed out plugs to AC Iridium 41-110 12621258
Also went with GM red performance wires.
I suggest getting a set of Kool Sox for the protection of the wires at the headers.
NGK's would be fine & MSD wires would be great too.
I like the stat that is complete with the housing.
Make sure to have your fan settings reprogrammed, when you have your tune done.
Also could also have them program your "skip shift", so you can get rid of the by pass mod.
It would also be a good time to set the red line (just a tad) higher.
I changed out plugs to AC Iridium 41-110 12621258
Also went with GM red performance wires.
I suggest getting a set of Kool Sox for the protection of the wires at the headers.
NGK's would be fine & MSD wires would be great too.